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Author Topic: Replacing the old fuse panel with a modern one  (Read 1992 times)
Jon Weywadt
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« on: January 11, 2010, 07:31:00 pm »

OK Campers.

This project is inspired by Jesper, who has already replaced his fuse panel and who came up with the design.

I have included a drawing below to show the essential and probably most difficult part of the project. You will need a bending rig to make it. It is made from 2 mm aluminium and, as I hope can be seen on the photos, it is important that it is bent so the outer edge of the square holes, is on the line. These holes correspond to the notches in the old circuit board and the plastic frame will hold it the same way.

The parts list:
One 130X106 mm 2mm thick aluminium plate.
Four modular relay sockets (they slide together to make a row),
Nine modular fuse holders, that also slide together to form a row. The relay sockets and fuse holders come with crimp-on terminals when you buy them.
One brass rod, 10X12X96 mm
Two 6mm nylon screws, nuts and washers
Appx 20 pieces of 3 mm set-screws, 6 mm long (unbrako or torx is best)
Four 6 mm screws appx 15 mm long
Four self locking 6 mm nuts
Appx 100 cm of wire, 2.5 sqm minimum.
2 pieces of acrylic or plastic plate 20X110mm 3 mm thick
Fuses, rated as desired

The fuse holders are assembled into a row and inserted in the large opening from the bottom of the plate (see photo)

The brasss rod is drilled as shown on the drawing below. It must be mounted so it is insulated from  the aluminium plate. Nylon screws and washers are best. There must be a minimum of 8 ea. 3 mm holes drilled for the wires feeding power to the relays, fuses, etc. ( I drilled 10 to have spares) plus one larger 5 mm hole for the main power wire from the battery. Perpendicular and aligned to these holes you must drill 2.6 mm holes that are then threaded with a 3 mm tap. I chose 2 rows of screws, but one may be enough. the set-screws go in these threaded holes and hold the wires.

The two acrylic plates are drilled so the holes line up with the 4 holes for the relay holders. The edge of the acrylic should line up with the edge of the aluminium plate.

You will have to cut the tongue and grove off the outermost relay holdes or the row will not fit through the hole in the plate holding the fuse assembly. See photo "Fuse10"

Once you have assembled the above parts, as shown on the photos, you are ready to start wireing.

I forgot to mention that you should get hold of an old (grey in my case) plastic component box, or equivalent, and cut it up as the one in my photos. It makes up an insulation cover for the brass power distrbution bar.

If you look at the original fuse diagram you will see that there are only 6 fuses and that the power feed for 3 of the relays has no fuse. The new design adds fuses to the 3 relays. Wire the fuse holders and relays so the fuses are numbered in the same order as on the old board and add the relay fuses as number 7-9. On the photo you can see the rightmost wire going to relay 1. The output of relay 1 is split into 2 wires that then are mounted into fuse positions 5 and 6. this is as the original. The second and third wire go to fuses 1 and 2. All other fuse connections are from the wires that you will have to identify on the original harness. Take your time and mark everything well before proceeding.

Once you get to the point that I show on the bottom photo, the "only"  Wink thing left is to disassemble the old circuits and wire in the new ones.

One reason I haven't jumped on mine yet is (besides the cold weather) that my lights have been modified so it is possible to pop the frog eyes up and run with only the driving lights, no position or rear lights (Danish minimum requirement) I have to figure out how I want it wired into the new fuse panel.
More than likely I will replace the relay for the driving lights so it powers the frog eyes when engaged and my new LED driving lights when the relay is off.

Anyway. Here is the drawing and photos so far, plus one from Jesper where he has wired it in. (I forgot to take one of his assembled fuse box, but it looks NICE. The thing just snaps into the original plastic frame. It looks original until you pull off the cover) Sweet.  Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
« Last Edit: January 11, 2010, 07:49:57 pm by Jon Weywadt » Logged

Matranaut par excellence Cool
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« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2010, 08:24:45 pm »

Looks good Jon,
A lot of work, but it will be worth it.
 
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
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