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Author Topic: 3.0 V6 Valve/Rocker cover oil leaks  (Read 11395 times)
mawds
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« on: May 28, 2011, 04:40:17 pm »

Hi, wondering if anyone has done the gaskets on the rocker covers (valve covers)? Seems like all 4 of mine are leaking and after a lot of hunting round for gaskets I was told that they are siliconed on. So I have 1 large tube of gasket sillicone, Meths for cleaning the oil off so the silicone will stick and some tools Smiley

I have taken the engine cover off and looking at the rocker covers they seem to be 2 part? there is a top slim cover and then a 1" (roughly) section which has another gasket to the cylinder head. I have looked through the pdf's but cannot find any section images or assembly images of how these come apart. I don't want to disturb the top cover if that will disturb the second gasket and I can't get to it. Realistically they may both need doing.

Also need torque settings  and order for the bolts.

Also where is the engine oil level sender located? mine is reading full all the time but I'm sure it must be low by now, the dipstick reads different every time due to the oil getting dragged up the dipstick pipe.

thx
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2011, 10:56:59 pm »

Hi mawds,

Yes, that's right - the gaskets are siliconed. You'll find all the info you need in the enigne workshop manual here Smiley
http://www.matrasport.dk/Cars/Espace/vault/JE/MRMOTL%28E%29_L7X.pdf

The two sections you are seeing are the rocker cover, then the the cam shaft bearing blocks. You shouldn't remove those unless you need to get the camshafts out. If you do take them off, you have to remove the timing belt first, as it will otherwise pull the cam shafts out of the lower bearings when you remove the bearing blocks. According to the manual, the seals should withstand several removal and refittings - and can be repaired, so you should be able to fix your problem.

However, I would personally not be too worried about a bit of oil from the rocker covers. As long as it doesn't get into the spark plug wells, I don't think it can do much harm.

I find it a little odd that you have problems reading the dipstick. Don't forget to wipe the stick well off before you dip it in to measure the oil level!

The oil level sender is designed to only read low when oil level is *really* low. It's connected on the front of the engine - actually quite easily accessible from below the car. You won't miss it Wink

Good luck,
Anders
« Last Edit: May 28, 2011, 10:59:16 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
mawds
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« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2011, 04:21:25 am »

smashin thanks for that. I had all the other pdfs but that one. Much clearer. So fingers crossed the cam block to cylinder head should be OK. With all 4 leaking I have quite a big patch on the front drive now Sad and it gets on the exhaust so gets a bit smelly too Sad want to get at least the fronts done.

thanks again.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2011, 01:58:37 pm »

Great Smiley

It just occurred to me: Check that the oil is not just leaking from the oil cap - they are known to leak!  Roll Eyes

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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
mawds
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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2011, 01:28:31 am »

thx, no cap is fine. It's pretty much all round the covers and a fair bit by the cam belt covers.   Sad trouble is a little oil goes a long way so might be more localised to a few points.
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renaultbiler
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« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2011, 10:48:44 am »

I would make sure the engines air ducts is not clogged up causing high pressure, sounds strange that you have all these leaks "everywhere".
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1980 Alpine A-310 w/GTA 2.5 V6 Turbo
2000 Grand Espace V6 24v Initiale: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2529
2000 Scenic RXi 2.0 16v IDE aut DP0: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=3751
1982 R20TX 2.2
Service Online: www.servicehefte.net/servdata/?cid=qqkX
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2011, 06:16:14 am »

I would make sure the engines air ducts is not clogged up causing high pressure, sounds strange that you have all these leaks "everywhere".

That's actually a very good point!

On my old engine, they turned out to be blocked almost completely when they got it out.

Unfortunately you need to get the inlet off the engine to access the system as it's sitting between the cylinder banks.

/Anders
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
renaultbiler
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« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2011, 09:14:40 am »

Either way you need to take the inlet manifoil off if the rear bank rocker covers is to be accessed, do you have any oil service history on this car ?

Good quality oil and frequent oil changes is indeed a very good maintain-mode  Wink

I prefer to divide the factory interval by 2 on oil change, and that is also the Renault recomendation in several cases. Example: more than 5000km in temperatures at -15* or colder Renault says divide by 2. And in Norway that often is true, but no one seems to care/know. Especially diesel engines suffer with turbo failures regardless of make and model, and too long intervals is the probable cause by my knowledge.
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1980 Alpine A-310 w/GTA 2.5 V6 Turbo
2000 Grand Espace V6 24v Initiale: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2529
2000 Scenic RXi 2.0 16v IDE aut DP0: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=3751
1982 R20TX 2.2
Service Online: www.servicehefte.net/servdata/?cid=qqkX
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