| Home  Blogs Help Search Login Register  
« previous next »
Pages: [1] Print
Author Topic: Fluids on the Murena  (Read 1540 times)
RazorbackNOR
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 494



« on: October 31, 2011, 10:24:50 am »

Since I'm changing most of the fluids on my Murena, I thought I might air some questions and stuff with you.

Have I read correctly, does it really take 11 liters of anitfreeze to fill the Murena? And would I benefit anything by going for a "longlife"/alu engineblock red antifreeze?

I see that Roy has suggested to use newer synthetic motoroil, since I haven't yet understood the "new" way of viscosity on these, I should ask you what kind of range should I go for? 5W-50? 10W-40 or is there something that is more beneficial for our Murena? Or should I go for something like this one: http://bilxtra.no/hjem/bilxtra-butikk/olje-og-kjemi/motorolje/klassiske-biler/classic-20w50/  The car will not be driven during winter and snow, but will remain stored, although probably outdoors.  Quantity is to around 4.3 liter with a new filter if I haven't misread anything?

Going on to the gearboxoil. There seemes to be some back and forth about if one should use GL4 or GL5. Roy also suggested synthetic 75W/90, but no spec on GL4 or GL5 for this one. Quantity 1.1-1.3 liter depending on how much of the oil you can get out.

On brakefluid, since I do not flush the entire system to get rid of every trace, and since I'm not going to use the Murena for any racing, I have decided to go for a ATE DOT 4 Blue fluid.

Feel free to give any feedback or comments.
« Last Edit: October 31, 2011, 11:05:45 am by RazorbackNOR » Logged

2010 Mazda 3 1,6  Diesel Gunmetal Blue
1983 Matra Murena 2.2 Platine
50cc Pocketbike
IPSC shooter
uberprutser
Full Member
***
Posts: 67


« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2011, 11:31:21 am »

Yes it takes 11 liters to fill up the cooling system and I would definitely go for a anti corrosion type of fluid. But I guess most of them have anti corrosive properties.
There are also additives that supposedly make the engine run a bit cooler. Very interesting but I haven't tried them yet.

Motor oil is always a topic of much debate. There are so many views and opinions.
On one end of the spectrum are the people that claim you never need to change the oil only the filter and then top it of. On the other end are the people that only want the best of the best and believe every new add from the motor companies. I think you should aim for something in the middle.

I personally always buys a 60 liter oil drum 15w40 semi synthetic and change every year of after about 8000 kilometers. The make doesn't bother me and this way I pay only a few euro per liter. I do believe that oils of today are a bit better then the once available of the early 80 so I think that will allow me a bit more millage between changes. I would not use a fully synthetic oil because I've been told that they could damage the oil seals. Don't no if this is true but I don't want to risk it or play the big bugs for those high priced designer oils. There are however people driving there Murena's with these oils. If you just rebuild your motor with all new oils seals it would make sense using a fully synthetic.

I just replaced the transmission on my car and bought a 75w80 GL5 oil. (Unknown brand) It's a very thin oil almost water like it is definitely a lot thinner then the previous oil.  And I now have a leaking gearbox even though I replaced all the oil seals. But this might not have to do with the oil I could have damaged a seal or used insufficient liquid gasket to close the differential housing. Anyhow I'm disappointed and will have to pull the transmission again Sad
I would not bother with GL4 since this is just a lower spec oil. GL5 is replacing GL4.

You are right no to use dot5 I would only consider dot5 after rebuilding the entire brake and clutch system. This is something that I will probably be doing next year but I'm still not sure if I will use dot5.
Does anybody have any experience with dot5 on the Murena??
Logged
suffolkpete
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 451



« Reply #2 on: October 31, 2011, 11:38:42 am »

My handbook says the 2.2 has a cooling system capacity of 11.5 litres.  For the British climate I'd use two parts water to one of antifreeze, but for your climate you might want to increase that to, say, 50:50.  Don't use the long-life antifreeze, it has ingredients that can damage the seals on older engines, stick with the two-year blue stuff.
For the transmission, I use Castrol Driveline Syntrax.  This is a fully synthetic 75W/90 oil.  It is compatible with both GL4 and GL5 API specifications.  My handbook says GL4 should be used.  Do not use GL5 unless it specifically states that it also meets GL4, it is not a higher spec oil it contains sulphur which can damage yellow metal components.  I currently use a 10W/40 mineral oil in the engine of my 1.6, although some people have had good results with synthetics and I'm thinking of changing.  I think Roy suggested Castrol Edge 10W/60 (no doubt he'll be along in a minute to tell me if I'm wrong  Smiley) but it's hard to find round here.  20W/50 sounds a bit heavy for Norway, or at least the 20W part does.
Logged
Pages: [1] Print 
« previous next »
Jump to: