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Author Topic: murena restore  (Read 66443 times)
klumzer
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« on: January 17, 2012, 09:25:46 pm »

My restoration project has been proceeding and I also have some questions so I thought it is time to start a new topic.
The main goal is to restore the car to almost original condition.
The chassis got a new corrosion protection (epoxy primer and stone chip). Suspension is also repainted and most of the bushes will be changed to new. Brake calipers and a lot of parts are newly galvanised.
I know some parts of the chassis should not be painted but corrosion protection was more important for me than having a visible bare galvanised metal. After 30 years zinc coat has some small damages so it needed some action.
The engine block is in quite good condition but the head... hmm... now it is revived. Hopefully it will be good.
We changed the chain of the oil pump in the engine because it was quite loose. But the new one is also loose a bit. Is it possible to thigten it or we should change the wheels?
« Last Edit: January 17, 2012, 10:49:04 pm by klumzer » Logged
klumzer
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« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2012, 06:20:46 pm »

more pics...
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Morten Blom
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« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2012, 06:55:31 pm »

I do not know anything about the chain, BUT wow it's an amazing job!
GREAT!  Cheesy

Best regards Morten
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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2012, 08:10:34 am »

more pics...
Hi Klumzer.
I am seriously impressed. You are doing the job we all dream of and never quite get around to do. While we  just keep our cars going, you are ending up with an essentially better-than-new Murena. I look forward to seeing it at a meet.

About the chain to the oil pump. Besides new sprocket wheels, I see only two options if the chain is new and still loose.
You could have the sprocket wheels chrome plated, which will add a few thousands to the diameter and may take up the slack. However the surface would probably be harder and therefore wear the chain faster, so it is perhaps not the best option.
Another option could be to put a shim under the oil pump housing, thus increasing wheel distance and tightening the chain. I do not know if that will create problems for the oil pan fit, but you could verify the fit.
Regards. Jon.

« Last Edit: January 19, 2012, 08:23:00 am by Jon Weywadt » Logged

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uberprutser
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« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2012, 08:59:20 am »

Wow, a lot of time went into that chassis. It looks brilliant.
But I'm not sure if it's a good idea to paint the surfaces too which will bond the rear quarter panels.
How are you going to treat the steel frame inside the doors? It guess it will be hard to get those up to your high standard.
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roy4matra
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« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2012, 11:00:53 am »

My restoration project has been proceeding and I also have some questions so I thought it is time to start a new topic.
The main goal is to restore the car to almost original condition...

We changed the chain of the oil pump in the engine because it was quite loose. But the new one is also loose a bit. Is it possible to thigten it or we should change the wheels?

Hello Klumzer,

It's great to see someone prepared to spend some time and money on preserving these great cars.  Well done.

The oil pump chain was normally quite loose on the 2.2 even when new, so don't worry about it, as long as the chain or gears don't show excessive wear.  The method of making it less slack is to put some shims under the mounting to the block.  This was detailed in the workshop manual.

Roy
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klumzer
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« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2012, 08:56:12 pm »

Thanks, but a lot of work remained...
Hopefully I will visit a meeting next year. This year I won't have time and money for it.

But I'm not sure if it's a good idea to paint the surfaces too which will bond the rear quarter panels.
How are you going to treat the steel frame inside the doors? It guess it will be hard to get those up to your high standard.

Yes, you are right, it is better to bond the panels to bare metal, but probably I damaged the zinc coat during removal and I do not want to have rust underneath them. I asked an expert before doing anything. He is a representative of a paint company and recommended me to use epoxy primer on the galvanised surface and I could glue the panels to the primer which is tough and rough enough for this procedure. Hopefully he was right. We will see it.
Door frame... hmm... I pondered a lot on it. It is a delicate point of the restoration, because the window rails are quite rusty. I think we will use a wire brush or wire disc to clean it and apply anticorrosive materials and coating. Sandblasting is also considered, but it may cause damage to the glass fibre.
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klumzer
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« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2012, 09:23:29 pm »


The oil pump chain was normally quite loose on the 2.2 even when new, so don't worry about it, as long as the chain or gears don't show excessive wear.  The method of making it less slack is to put some shims under the mounting to the block.  This was detailed in the workshop manual.


I only have a Dutch manual... but fortunately we have this forum with its helpful members. Thanks for everyone. Smiley

We used a shim but the chain is still loose a bit. The sprocket wheels look good so that is ok.

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klumzer
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« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2012, 06:24:24 pm »

As I mentioned I want to keep the car in original condition, but I was thinking of installing an electric fuel pump, but...
Next year I want my car to take an old timer exam which excluded this type of modification in the fuel system, so I rejected this plan.
Now I am looking for a new mechanical fuel pump, because I do not want to use the old one. Although it worked, it is probably worn.
At the car parts dealer I could not find pump for Murena 2.2, only for Tagora, but it does not look the same. Mounting points and dimensions are the same. It has 1 inlet 1 outlet and an extra, an overflow-pipe (maybe it is not the right word)... According to the catalog it is for Tagora 2.2, but I suspect it is for the V6 engine...

Can it be used on the Murena 2.2? Or it has a high flow rate for the 2.2 engine?
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uberprutser
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« Reply #9 on: January 20, 2012, 06:40:57 pm »

I have fuel pump from a Tagora on my car and it has only two fuel line connections and iis made from plastic.  I think you are right, this is probably for the V6 Tagora.

Edit: I just remembered, the V6 has two triple weber carburettors. This would explain the extra fuel line connection.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2012, 08:58:39 pm by uberprutser » Logged
klumzer
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« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2012, 11:29:03 pm »

Today we installed the front suspension. It looks good. Smiley

Looking at the rubber cooling hoses, I have to change some. Are there any alternative parts to replace them?
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suffolkpete
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« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2012, 10:35:27 am »

Mounting points and dimensions are the same. It has 1 inlet 1 outlet and an extra, an overflow-pipe (maybe it is not the right word)... According to the catalog it is for Tagora 2.2, but I suspect it is for the V6 engine...

Can it be used on the Murena 2.2? Or it has a high flow rate for the 2.2 engine?
The third outlet is a return connection to the fuel tank, as fitted to the 1.6.  I think that if you look , you will find it has a very small outlet, about 0.7mm.  Talbots fitted the third connection in some markets, I don't know about the Tagora but Alpines and Solaras can be found with either three or two connections.  My parts book shows the 2.2 as having two connections to the pump, but you could probably use the three outlet pump  if you either blanked off the third connection or provided a return to the tank as on the 1.6
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klumzer
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« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2012, 08:40:44 pm »

Yes, the third connection is smaller with a thin hole.
It was not easy, but after some searching I found a catalog of mechanical fuel pumps:

http://www.ptz.si/pdf/PTZ_Mechanical_pumps.pdf

Part number 4357 is for Murena 2.2 with 2 connections, page 66. Now I can look for it refer to part number. In the catalog of a spare parts dealer I found it like on the attached photo. Hopefully I can order one.

4294 is for Tagora V6 with 3 connections, page 64.
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klumzer
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« Reply #13 on: January 23, 2012, 06:44:39 pm »

It seems I have to change one of the pistons in the front brake calipers. If I know well it is also used in Citroen Visa and AX. Maybe in Visa GTi 1985-1991 and AX GTi 1991-1998. Am I right?
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roy4matra
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« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2012, 08:58:19 pm »

Mounting points and dimensions are the same. It has 1 inlet 1 outlet and an extra, an overflow-pipe (maybe it is not the right word)... According to the catalog it is for Tagora 2.2, but I suspect it is for the V6 engine...

Can it be used on the Murena 2.2? Or it has a high flow rate for the 2.2 engine?

The third outlet is a return connection to the fuel tank, as fitted to the 1.6.  I think that if you look , you will find it has a very small outlet, about 0.7mm.  Talbots fitted the third connection in some markets, I don't know about the Tagora but Alpines and Solaras can be found with either three or two connections.  My parts book shows the 2.2 as having two connections to the pump...

Which is because the return to the tank on the 2.2 comes from the carburettor connection.  So you don't want a pump with a return on the 2.2 or if you did have one you would have to blank one of them off.

To explain for those that don't understand why it is there, the third small orifice connection is to stop any carburettor needle leakage as it shuts off, since the excess pressure is allowed back to the tank.

Roy
« Last Edit: January 24, 2012, 09:02:12 pm by roy4matra » Logged

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