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Author Topic: Hello and my new Murena restoration...  (Read 45140 times)
TimS
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« Reply #90 on: January 12, 2013, 08:36:46 pm »

Thanks, I'll take it out when I clean up the engine bay.

In the meantime, I stripped out the blower fan to clean it. I've put a new switch on the dashboard so want to do this at the same time.
Can anyone tell me how to take the motor out of the vanes without breaking it? And which bits to grease up to get rid of the bearing squeaking?

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klumzer
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« Reply #91 on: January 12, 2013, 10:26:30 pm »

If you want to remove the rotor from the shaft, I found the best method in the forum.

Hold the rotor between your knees, facing the motor downward, and punch the shaft with a mandrel or something like that. Be careful not to drop the motor on the floor when it is released. I did it like this and I think you will not break the plastic wheel.

I can not tell you how to lubricate the bearings in the original motor, because my motor was in bad shape (cracked housing, worn bearings) so I discarded it and borrowed a new one from a Suzuki Swift. Before installing the new motor I disassembled it and put some grease at the bearings.
« Last Edit: January 12, 2013, 10:30:42 pm by klumzer » Logged
Oetker
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« Reply #92 on: January 12, 2013, 10:36:22 pm »

I am not a big fan for greasing squeaking bearings .
It is a temporary fix.
Better is to look for a japan motor in there.
They run forever and give better ventilation.

Regards Herman
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
TimS
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Posts: 172



« Reply #93 on: January 12, 2013, 11:04:53 pm »

Thanks. I'll see what condition the motor is in. I don't have time to look for another one right now, I just need this to keep working of a while.

I just want to try to clean it up.
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TimS
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Posts: 172



« Reply #94 on: January 16, 2013, 09:04:12 pm »

There is a sensor on the oil-sump that tells a module under the dash if there enough oil.
If not the lamp flashes.
This is unreliable and most of the times the sensor is defect.
Very difficult to find this sensor, and if you can find it will cost you.
I removed it in both  cars.


I actually think I have one of these, as I bought some spares off Ebay cheaply, just in case!

Is this the switch?
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Oetker
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« Reply #95 on: January 16, 2013, 09:47:29 pm »

No that is the oil pressure switch and mounted higher.
In fact it is hanging in the oil of the sump and is about 10 cm long.
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Oetker
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Posts: 1048



« Reply #96 on: January 16, 2013, 09:51:22 pm »

It looks a bit like this.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-106-GTI-CITROEN-SAXO-VTS-VTR-GENUINE-OIL-SUMP-LEVEL-SENSOR-PROBE-/221165270060?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337e7a342c
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
TimS
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 172



« Reply #97 on: January 17, 2013, 11:36:26 pm »

Wheels back on and had the car running again today Wink
It sounds a bit like a tractor though...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4p46q7rxzs8x7to/2013-01-17%2016.33.31.mp4

Noticed this when I was having a look underneath, should there be a bracket here to hold the gear linkage?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zq109xu4itgxs8/2013-01-17%2016.08.29.jpg

At least the headlamps work now!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mkq5e622kc3f5ka/2013-01-17%2016.25.24.jpg
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Oetker
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« Reply #98 on: January 18, 2013, 12:51:02 am »

quote
-------
Noticed this when I was having a look underneath, should there be a bracket here to hold the gear linkage?
============================================================================

It is something from outer space I think.
Original  there is no linkage mount and there should not be there.
It hangs free at that spot, however some people made modifications to make the shifting shorter.

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,118.0.html


Regards Herman
« Last Edit: January 18, 2013, 08:19:31 am by Oetker » Logged

I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Oetker
YaBB God
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Posts: 1048



« Reply #99 on: January 18, 2013, 08:20:17 am »

Edit,
On second toughts,
Could this be part of the tank protection on import cars from Germany ?
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
RazorbackNOR
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Posts: 494



« Reply #100 on: January 18, 2013, 10:11:59 am »

Edit,
On second toughts,
Could this be part of the tank protection on import cars from Germany ?

I doubt it. Mine is from germany and have not seen anything like it on mine.(although it could have been removed sometime earlier)
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2010 Mazda 3 1,6  Diesel Gunmetal Blue
1983 Matra Murena 2.2 Platine
50cc Pocketbike
IPSC shooter
TimS
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Posts: 172



« Reply #101 on: January 18, 2013, 12:19:04 pm »

I have no idea what it is for either. But the gear change thread was a good read. Mine is worn and probably Ishould start by changing the ball joints and washer.
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suffolkpete
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Posts: 456



« Reply #102 on: January 18, 2013, 12:41:24 pm »

Changing the ball joints is certainly a good idea.  You should also examine the  ball and socket at the base of the gear lever.  Pull the lever upwards to see if there is any play.  If there is, you can tighten it by taking it apart and filing down the faces of the two halves of the socket.
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klumzer
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Posts: 370



« Reply #103 on: January 18, 2013, 03:45:55 pm »

Edit,
On second toughts,
Could this be part of the tank protection on import cars from Germany ?

I have this question in my thread. Anders told me the answer what was veryfied by Roy:

"Anders is correct.  That undertray is extra protection for the fuel tank, required under TUV regs."

Sometimes you can find one on German E-bay. I think it is not worth the money so I will not buy. Maybe in the future I will make one on my way...
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TimS
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Posts: 172



« Reply #104 on: January 18, 2013, 04:24:30 pm »

Changing the ball joints is certainly a good idea.  You should also examine the  ball and socket at the base of the gear lever.  Pull the lever upwards to see if there is any play.  If there is, you can tighten it by taking it apart and filing down the faces of the two halves of the socket.

There is good 'spring' resistance if I push the lever right, but nothing at all to the left so it flops around between neutral and 1st and 2nd. Where do I take it apart to replace the 'top hat'?
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