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Author Topic: Norwegian 2.2S  (Read 32846 times)
alfafred
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Murena 2,2 S


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« Reply #45 on: April 03, 2013, 09:46:08 pm »

Today I did take apart most of the rear calippers. Also here I am lucky. Have no problems with the job. All parts almost "fall" of when I am working. A little corrosion on the steel parts. The alloy housing of calipper was easy to remove from the steel frame. Have sand blasted all steel parts, and painted them with calipper paint. The aluminium housing I just wash inside and outside, and also the parking brake system, and add new grease inside. Everything is in good condition and need no repair, just some cleaning and new painton steel parts. 
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alfafred
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Murena 2,2 S


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« Reply #46 on: April 17, 2013, 07:56:20 pm »

Lookin for new wheels... Front 7 x 15 and Rear  8 x 15. ET25. Have been searching Gotti, Compomotive and Revolution. And since I had Revolution on my cars in the 80`s I do really like these.
Someone who have seen a Murena with something like this?

And would the size an ET be correct?

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njesper
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« Reply #47 on: April 18, 2013, 01:51:12 pm »

Looking sweet,

They are pretty close to my rims, which I seriously think are the most beautiful I've seen on a murena  Grin (thank you Jos - the guy I bought the car+rims from)





Mine are ATS. I like the balance between the matt alu, and black, and the very sharp edges making them perfect 80's rims. (in my opinion)  Cool

from the net: http://www.pacificie-tuning.com/images/product_images/info_images/ATS/ATS-Classic.jpg

Best, Jesper
« Last Edit: April 18, 2013, 02:13:25 pm by njesper » Logged
JL
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« Reply #48 on: April 18, 2013, 02:20:01 pm »

Hi Alfafred

Not sure what everyone else thinks but I would not run 7 inch rims on the front of a mid engined car, it will be more prone to aquaplaning and you will find that the car will move around on road undulations and markings. I would tend to favour 6 inch max.

Regards
John
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alfafred
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Murena 2,2 S


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« Reply #49 on: April 18, 2013, 05:07:17 pm »

WOW....

Have been searching the ATS classic, but cant find them to the Murena! Thats whay I did search revolution

What dimensions on your wheels, ET and tyre sizes? AND where to buy.....


 Grin Grin Grin Grin
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GL
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« Reply #50 on: April 20, 2013, 11:06:41 am »

Yes those rims look very nice on the car, esspecialy in combination with the car color and lowered suspension
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alfafred
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Murena 2,2 S


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« Reply #51 on: May 09, 2013, 10:59:06 am »

If someone can tell more about the ATS wheels, please do so....


Have received from Carjoy some parts. Brake parts, have also from Delticom got my new 14" set of Toyo wheels. 4 New SKF wheel bearings are also in house. So hopefully I have time to put the left side rear, back on car in a week or two.

 Smiley
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roy4matra
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« Reply #52 on: May 18, 2013, 12:05:08 pm »

It's an old car so cheap 15W40 mineral should be fine but I refresh every year or 5000 mile.
I dont use full synthetic bacause I don't know what is do with the seals but I hear that some have no problem with it.

regards Herman

I have to disagree strongly here, but I'm not getting at you particularly Herman, as this is a popular misconception repeated often.

Cheap oil will give cheap results and is not as good for any engine as good synthetic oil.  I have also seen this statement about synthetic oil and seals BUT never once seen any proof to back up the claim.  Show me some categorical test results showing the synthetic oil to have been detrimental, and I might believe there have been some problems, but what I can tell you from personal experience is that I have used semi- and full-synthetic oils in engines range from modern to pre-war with no problems.  Yes, we are using synthetic oil in a 1936 Standard 10 that I have helped restore (doing most of the mechanical and electrical work) and the 'new' seals or gaskets are in fact many years old even though never used before.  This engine and gearbox have no leaks or oil problems.  I have run my Murena from new on full synthetic oil and the condition of the parts are like new.

The great advantage with synthetic oils is they are fluid when cold, as they don't go thicker (due to the waxy elements of normal oils) so they protect during the critical cold/warm up phase.  This is when wear generally takes place.   Normal oils also have lighter elements which get burnt off or evaporate leaving an oil which gets thicker with age.  That is why they need periodic replacement.  Synthetic does not have this problem.  That is why synthetic can be left in much longer.  Do you realise that trucks can have oil change intervals of 100,000 kms if using full synthetic oil?  And modern cars often have a 2 year or 30,000 kms interval providing they are using synthetic oil.  You would never leave a mineral oil in for longer than 10,000 kms or one year.  Many cars used to have even half that interval with normal oil and for good reason.

So if your engine or gearbox has major oil leaks, or burns lots of oil, then you need to correct those faults, otherwise you are wasting valuable oil as well as polluting the environment... and wasting synthetic oil is more costly than mineral oil obviously.  But that is about the only reason now to use a mineral oil.

Roy
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #53 on: May 18, 2013, 01:55:21 pm »

Good to see you raise your voice on the subject of oil quality, which you know a lot about, Roy. True, it's just a technical subject, so we're not getting at anyone, just sharing the facts Smiley

Anders
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
krede
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« Reply #54 on: May 21, 2013, 07:28:08 pm »

I completely agree with Roy. That old cars "can do" with cheap oil is a myth. Good quality oil wont break down when heated and turn into tar inside your oil galleries , but will keep your engine clean, and has friction reducing additives that will prevent wear on components from the time you start up and until the oil film has formed. I think people are mistaken about this because new synthetic oils are often "thinner" than old mineral oils. 
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alfafred
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Murena 2,2 S


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« Reply #55 on: July 28, 2013, 12:12:29 pm »

Did today remove from the gearbox/diff the housing (4 bolts) and simmering to the left driveshaft. And out did it fall a 5-6mm shim with a split. Are this split going to be placed over the hole that drain oil back in the gearbox?...

??

Anyone...Smiley

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Oetker
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« Reply #56 on: July 29, 2013, 07:15:14 pm »

Picture please because I don't know exactly what you mean.

Regards Herman
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
matramurena
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« Reply #57 on: July 31, 2013, 11:08:48 am »

Jesper,

What size are those ATS rims? Looks like 14" t me?

Martijn
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1983 Matra Murena V6 (AR engine)
2003 Matra Avantime 2.0T Expression
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alfafred
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Murena 2,2 S


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« Reply #58 on: August 01, 2013, 08:59:17 am »

Here is some pictues.

I have changed the oil seal at drivshaft outlet. In the bottom of picture 1 in the housing, there is a oil return hole.



I have also this spacer ring with a cutout, are thiscutout going to be plased over this oil return hole, to secure that oil flow free back into gearbox?


« Last Edit: August 04, 2013, 03:29:35 pm by alfafred » Logged
alfafred
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Murena 2,2 S


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« Reply #59 on: February 05, 2014, 01:50:02 pm »

Have now finished a service on the brakes. Taken all parts of. Glass blasted all of them. Painted, new rubbers, new pads and new handbrake cable, and flushed the system with lots of brakefluid. Now I can push the car easily on the floor again.

The original alloy wheels are now getting stripped and new silver paint baked on, the new Toyo tires in original dimension are waiting in the garage.

Next:
What is the best gear oil to be used on the 2,2S?

« Last Edit: February 05, 2014, 01:52:38 pm by alfafred » Logged
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