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Author Topic: Before I forget.. (Adding bluetooth)  (Read 518 times)
WessexElectricNutter
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« on: June 24, 2014, 10:07:20 pm »

I said I'll do it, and I am going to, now I fitted 2 bluetooth kits to 2 different espaces, the only difference is the control pad (one is wireless, one isn't). In this example, I'm showing how to install a Parrot CK3100 bluetooth car kit, this is a rather old one, but most kits are similar - its also rather straight forward, far forward than it sounds, the complicated bit is if you don't want to rip anything like I don't know, the carpet? The photos are thumbnails, so click on one for a larger image.

1. Check you have everything, if you got yours out of a scrap car (like I did) and some idiot hasn't quite learnt the rule of "disconnecting stuff - before you take it" and simply chopped his way through the lot, now is the time to get those spares. for me, the only thing I had was the wiring loom for the speakers (I was spared that) and the power loom, everything had gone!

2. Decide a mounting location and method. For me, I decided to use double sided tape as I like to have my mods reversible. So I don't have anything other than sticky residue. With the control pad on a RHD vehicle, you will want to make sure you can route the cable from under the drivers seat - I'll explain in a bit. LHD cars, you may not be so lucky and need an extension loom for your microphone and control pad. In this situation, you may want to look at something like an "[url+http://www.amazon.co.uk/IO-Talk-Handsfree-Car-Solution-Black/dp/B001CDWX1S]iO talk 1[/url]" which is the only one I have found with a wireless control pad, it also puts music through the front speakers.

For me, I used the dashboard, opened up the speaker/tweeter cover (depends on your trim) and routed the cable under that. Seems like there is enough space and give to do it. Also, time to put your microphone near your final resting place, you'll need to see if you can route the wire first which leads me onto point three.

3. Now before you say "WHY ARE YOU TELLING ME TO PUT THE MICROPHONE IN NOW?" Easy, you want to make sure that you have enough slack in the wire before you take anything apart. The last thing you want is a mess up and down tools to go and get something else only to find.. ok, your car is in pieces! So, route the cable around where your mic will be. I tried this with the iO kit that I used and the location was pretty good. Now I didn't have the (proper) parrot microphone as some idiot chopped it out of a car. So I took what I could find. Anyway, I found an old microphone my dad had for years from aparently a Motorola car kit he fitted to his "J63" V6 Espace. For me, I chose where the LED and remote sensor dome would be on the pre-face cars. Like what you see in the photo above. Then I tucked the wire in with my fingers (you can use a clean flathead screwdriver) from here

Along here:

Down the pillar and for the next step, you need to remove a trim, so you can leave it dangling in the wind and for those wanting an ultra clean install...

4. Remove the lower trim on the dashboard by the drivers/passenger side (optional) which in my case has the LPG switch, cruise control switch and heated window switch. Also, remove the plastic sill tirm, its held in by four screws, 3 are visible and cover in ash in my case, the 4th one can be a pain in the rear as its slightly angled. They are all T20 torx screws and invest in a sort of long handled screw driver.

Heres 2 of them and the other one which can be a err.. yeah


Place it to one side, feed the cables in the trough which is actually full of glue (sticky!) and feed it under the seat like here:


You CAN lift the carpet enough to shove it in a little further, but this will make life soo much easier next. Also noticed, I've put in an extra wire. If you want to add phono to your radio and you are sure you have an Aux input, now is the time to add that cable too. 2M long mono lead is sufficent, heres the one I used (Click me).

4. Now the dreaded bit, you DON't have to remove the battery, but you DO have to be careful. If you get the airbag light (Oh lovely!) then now is another time to fix that too as the connector works loose under either the drivers or passenger seat. 3 jobs in one go. The thing is, you are now going to remove your seat. Do it gently, otherwise you'll get a spinning bolt and have the problem I got in my Diesel one in that I can't remove the drivers seat at all.

Slide the seat all the way back, rotate it 45 degrees because most of them do swivel (useful feature here) and remove the front 2 bolts. Slide it forward again, remove the back 3 bolts. Put them in a safe place. Now, move the seat as far forward as you can. Now under that cover is the radio, you'd wouldn't think it! The carpet at the vent is in half, but you will need to cut a bit off if you are feeling lazy.


If you want to do it properly, I'm afraid, you have to also dismantle the cubbyhole in front of the seat, remove the seat entirely which means disconnecting the battery and removing the rear seat rails to lift the carpet. So its pretty involved. In my case, I was able to move the cover enough to undo 2 bolts and swivel it, if you lift the carpet at the very end just enough and have the right tools, you can possibly get to a 3rd torx screw, but the space you would be working in is very tight, you may need a Universal joint attached to a screw driver.

Once the cover is off, now you can glare at your radio and go "Oh, thats what it looks like.


5. Now you should see your wires as well, like control wires and photo wires, you can pull them through now. If you are installing an aux in connector, reach round the back, its a phono jack, you can plug it in. If you feel just 2 of them, don't bother, if you feel 3 of them, then 2 are for the subwoofer, one is for aux input. Only certain radios have this phono input and so far, the Pioneer SCU-2556 is one and the SCU-2156ZRN is another I've seen with them. Now would be also the time to remove the connectors on the radio. Don't worry the fact that they are at right angles, its a plastic cover. Once you have disconnected them, you can plug your bluetooth ones in, logically.
On the parrot CK3100 kit, Red and orange stay as they are, they don't need to be reversed. Route it around the radio and find a place for the box, it might fit in front of the radio so try it!

Plug everything in the control box and if you chose the same location as I did, it should be sitting in front of the radio on top of the cables for the CD changer, remote control receiver, etc. Now would be a sensible idea to connect everything in to the box, like microphone etc and test it.

Turn the ignition on, pair your phone, have some fun. I had an iphone on me, so I had some fun with Siri. If you want to, make a call and ask for some feedback during the call, I used my dad and my sister as guinea pigs. The good thing with this is you can now also work out where your microphone need to go (if it works at all!) and the like. Once you are done, put the plate back in, screw it down and make sure nothing comes out the sides like cables.

And here’s my example. Also, if you see a lot of dirt, now is a very good time to get a vacumme cleaner out. I did as I was stunned with the amount of crap that got in!

6. Put everything back together. One thing to be careful of, the bits the seats stand on, may need to be re positioned as they tend to get dislodged. If you move any cable, check it, otherwise you will need to dismantle everything. I found out the hard way. Once you are done and everything looks clean, back as it should, etc, have some fun.
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Renault Espace III 2.2DCi Privilege (2001)
Renault Espace III 3.0 V6 Privilege (2001)
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