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Author Topic: undershield caps stopper ready for engine and triangle dismount  (Read 1966 times)
amidlamil
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« on: November 30, 2014, 07:48:30 pm »



BAS de caisses (undershield) >> prepare an acces to rear arms/triangles

i make it in FROG images should be sufficients

à env 12-14 cm (de mémoire !°du bout arriere du bas de caisse faire a la scie a cloche un precage diametre 35 mm en

recuperer le bout issu de la scie a cloche et le repositionner (avec un scotch en mettant de la cire (cire pour meuble va tres bien)

sur la partie extérieure coller du scoth alu (aluminium) autour du trou pratiqué contenant le piece retirée (la resine ne colle ni a la cire ni a ce type de revetement aluminium)

mettre 2 petites épaisseurs de mat sur l'ensemble (faut que cela adhère à la partie emportée

attendre, décoller le scotch, passer a la meuleuse pour faire un beau rond  (finish it making a nice round)

fix it with soma paste or what you like
PLZ sorry image in wrong order
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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2014, 11:46:07 am »

Are you talking about the oil-drip shield installed on German versions of the car? Huh
I do not recognise from the pictures where, or what, you are cutting holes in.
But Google translate of the picture text tells me the process  Wink

"approx 12-14 cm (memory! ° rear end of the rocker to the saw has a pre-cage bell diameter 35 mm recover from the tip of the saw and reposition the bell (with scotch putting the wax (wax furniture goes very well) on the outside paste scoth aluminum (aluminum) around the hole containing the removed piece (the resin does not stick to the wax or has this type of coating aluminum) put 2 small thicknesses matt on all (let that adheres to the carried party expected, peel off the tape, move on to the grinder to a nice round (finish making it a nice round)"
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Oetker
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« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2014, 07:36:22 pm »

Translation in google engine make funny French teksts.
Not sure but I think he talks about accessing the left bolt on the left trailing arm.
In my 2.2 were some holes to hammer it out.



herman
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2014, 10:22:23 pm »

Translation in google engine make funny French teksts.
Not sure but I think he talks about accessing the left bolt on the left trailing arm.
In my 2.2 were some holes to hammer
herman

I remember it being a bit difficult to get the nut off the trailing arm bolt. There is very little room between the arm and the inside of the fender. But it can be done. Now, if the bolt is rusted in the bushings the hole may be neded in order to beat it out. On mine I was able to get a wedge behind the inside of the bolt and beat it out. I will look for one of my first posts where I described the work.
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Oetker
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« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2014, 05:26:21 am »

If no maintenance was done before it is a hell of a job to get the bolt out.
Most of the time you end up doing this for a few hours


Then put a new rubber in the trailing-arm


If you been there once the advise is to grease it with copper-grease.
Next time there is no problem to get the bolt out.


Herman
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Jon Weywadt
YaBB God
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Posts: 954



« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2014, 03:29:09 pm »

If no maintenance was done before it is a hell of a job to get the bolt out.
Most of the time you end up doing this for a few hours
---
If you been there once the advise is to grease it with copper-grease.
Next time there is no problem to get the bolt out.
----
Herman

I know philbert had to cut the bolt too last year. I did not have to do that and I used copper grease when reassembling, so I hope it will come off easy when I take the gearbox off next spring. I also used stainless self-locking nuts so i expect them to come off easy.  Grin
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Matranaut par excellence Cool
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