EOW 1W MATRA 1.9 RESTORATION

[TELBOY]

take it all back....this is hard!!!

[TELBOY]

one side finished

[TELBOY]

onto the next side! Sill fitted and the yet another final coat of hemmerite followed by underseal before it all gets covered up! Hopefully will see it right for another 20 years

[TELBOY]

fitting and prepping this rear wing/fender...prep took considerable time due to several small sections of damage, most noticeably the section which tucks under the sill and the rearmost bottom section. I have used the minimum amount of adhesive to secure and the picture shows an old disc weighing down the section I have applied adhesive to. The rest I have used an outdoor sealant to prevent water ingress. I honestly don't know why Matra used so much adhesive when it just wasn't necessary (my opinion).

[TELBOY]

for once the photos do not do it justice!

[TELBOY]

At long last a functioning clutch and hopefully brakes. The brake pedal is hard but I wont know how effective till MOT time.

[Jon Weywadt]

for once the photos do not do it justice!

Is that fabric you put on the engine compartment? And did you have the side windows out to cut it to fit?
Looks good . :
/Jon

[TELBOY]

for once the photos do not do it justice!

Is that fabric you put on the engine compartment? And did you have the side windows out to cut it to fit?
Looks good . :
/Jon

Hi Jon
Yes, the windows are bonded to the wings so came out when I removed the wings (before removal of the wings). The carpeting I purchased from CAR BUILDER SOLUTIONS. When I removed the old carpeting I did it carefully and was able to use this as a template. I remember reading someone on the forum said it had to be done with the windows removed but in all honesty I think it could be done with them in-situ. I still have to do the inside of the boot and the boot cover. I have also replaced the vinyl along the inside upper at the glass hatch and down the sides. I did however remove the hatch, the strut mounts and the engine cover latches and sanded primed treated them. also replaced the electrical connectors for the heated rear window. As I said earlier it really has come up well and the photos do not really do it justice.
Tel

[TELBOY]

More photos:-

[TELBOY]

I made the boot cover from 5.5 ply wood which is thicker than the 2.5 Matra used! the underside is covered in vinyl and the top carpeted then a 9-12 edging fitted. I have cut out the holes for the metal supports but if I was doing it again I would just drill a hole with a "knob" through it and a flat piece of metal on the underside. I think this would be much better!

[TELBOY]

Nice sunny day so the work continues. The marks below the registration plate are where I have removed some of the protective coating on the bumper to fit the lamp.

[sc1962]

it looks good.youre doin a fantastic job.always remember " Rome wasn't built in a day" as I always tell er indoors

[TELBOY]

So I finally got around to replacing the electric window motor on the drivers side with the one from a Renault 9! As you may be able to see in the photos the one on the left is the one from a Renault and the right hand one the original. The shaft on the Renault one was longer and a lot less worn which meant I had to remove the grub screw at the end so the new motor would wit correctly and "do up" I placed a little grease in the end and then did the screw up firmly then slackened 1/4 turn so the motor ran freely. If the screw is too tight it prevents the motor from turning and too loose and the shaft is given enough room to move forwards and backwards in the motor which can cause "jamming" or rattling.

[roy4matra]

So I finally got around to replacing the electric window motor on the drivers side with the one from a Renault 9! As you may be able to see in the photos the one on the left is the one from a Renault and the right hand one the original. The shaft on the Renault one was longer and a lot less worn which meant I had to remove the grub screw at the end so the new motor would wit correctly and "do up" I placed a little grease in the end and then did the screw up firmly then slackened 1/4 turn so the motor ran freely. If the screw is too tight it prevents the motor from turning and too loose and the shaft is given enough room to move forwards and backwards in the motor which can cause "jamming" or rattling.

Note also from the bottom photo the plate across holding the plastic worm wheel housing in place.  On the Murena ones the plastic is only held in place by the alloy body being peened over around the edge.  This often allows the housing to move away and the worm wheel slips and causes the 'Brrrr' noise whilst the window stops moving.  That plate provides a much better secure fixing to stop the motor slipping.

Roy

[TELBOY]

So I finally got around to replacing the electric window motor on the drivers side with the one from a Renault 9! As you may be able to see in the photos the one on the left is the one from a Renault and the right hand one the original. The shaft on the Renault one was longer and a lot less worn which meant I had to remove the grub screw at the end so the new motor would wit correctly and "do up" I placed a little grease in the end and then did the screw up firmly then slackened 1/4 turn so the motor ran freely. If the screw is too tight it prevents the motor from turning and too loose and the shaft is given enough room to move forwards and backwards in the motor which can cause "jamming" or rattling.

Note also from the bottom photo the plate across holding the plastic worm wheel housing in place.  On the Murena ones the plastic is only held in place by the alloy body being peened over around the edge.  This often allows the housing to move away and the worm wheel slips and causes the 'Brrrr' noise whilst the window stops moving.  That plate provides a much better secure fixing to stop the motor slipping.



Roy