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roy4matra
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« Reply #18 on: June 01, 2020, 10:21:40 am » |
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Anders/Roy I don't have any pics sorry, the pump came from Simon's so was exchanged, but pretty sure it was straight vaned.
OK well that's a start to know that it appears to have had the correct pump. Now the next thing is that after you changed the pump, how did you bleed all the air out when filling the system? I reconfigured the hose layout as suggested by Anders from my original picture that i posted. To be honest I was thinking about putting it back as was, maybe with a one way valve inserted inline to see if it makes a difference. (opinions welcomed on that thought)
These cars/engines have a special hose connection sequence and circulation, and if it is not correct may cause problems. So the first thing I would need to know is how all the hoses are connected (where to where) as I cannot make it out from the few photos here. But as pointed out, it appears you have the radiator bleed hose connected to the top of the header tank where there is air, when it should be at the bottom of the tank under the surface of the coolant. Email me direct to my matraclub email please not here. that's how the car had been set up with the alloy tank for possibly years with no issues ?
Or possibly it did have issues, which is why it had been unused for so many years! I know that car had spent over six years unused by one owner who finally sold it in 2017, he had it for two years and then you bought it, possibly because that new owner couldn't fix the problem that the previous owner had left it unused since 2010/11. I usually find that cars that either sit unused for years or change hands often, are because they have issues and the owners don't understand how to fix them. BTW You could have asked me as I have 2.2 water pumps in stock. ... with having no real history I am finding things out as i come across them, as for instance yesterday did a oil change don't know how long since the oil filter had been changed but a decade was my thought ! I also noticed several sump bolts missing ! The car is certainly testing my patience and bank balance !
Which is exactly why these sort of problems mean they change hands often, or languish off the road for long times. Quite possibly the oil and filter hadn't been changed in a long time owing to all that time spent off the road. As for sump bolts missing, which ones Tony? I'm curious to know why for one thing but also if it is more important than you realise. Roy
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roy4matra
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« Reply #23 on: June 17, 2020, 06:24:11 pm » |
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... I now seem to have a blown head gasket, had oil blowing out the dipstick tube all over the engine and I can see water spraying about under the rocker cover via the oil filler cap. So I know its an engine out job to change the gasket...
First that last comment is wrong, as Peter has pointed out. You can certainly do a head gasket replacement without taking the engine out. You simply lower the gearbox end as you do to change the water pump, to give you access to take the upper timing cover off to get at the camshaft gear bolts and remove the timng chain, but first you must back off the timing chain tensioner! Many forget to do this and that can then mean the engine has to come out. However, two things worry me about your description. You say water or more correctly I hope, coolant which conrtains anti-freeze, is spraying about under the cam cover! Even if a head gasket has blown that is an unusual thing to happen as there is no easy path from a blown head gasket to the cam and rocker cover area. The first thing that you need to do therefore is remove the cam cover, remove most of oil from the top so you can see the four small core plugs under the cam in case one of those has sprung a leak. That is about the only way I can think of that coolant would be spraying in that area. If that has happened maybe the head gasket is in fact not blown. The next thing would be to do a cylinder compression test, to verify if you do have a head gasket problem. but maybe the rings are damaged as well with the blow back issue
Very unlikely Tony. For the oil coming from the dipstick, that could simply be crankcase pressure caused by a blocked vacuum port to the inlet manifold. That is not uncommon as it can get carboned up. If the port is blocked the green P.C.V. is going to get lots of oil mist through it as the pressure from the crankcase would blow via the cam cover hose and the suction from the top of the carb. assuming the set up is as per the originally designed system. ... so so not a cheap or quick fix if at all.
Possibly not but that depends on just what has happened. If it is a core plug and not the head gasket, it could be relatively quick and easy. just to add the breather filter was cleaned out and not blocked...
It's not a case of the filter being blocked, as that rarely happens, it's whether the vacuum port is blocked. It the vacuum from the inlet manifold cannot draw the fumes from the crankcase, then the crankcase will pressurise and you will get oil blowing out of any other possible orifice and that usually means the dipstick tube and the mechanical fuel pump for starters. I am not sure how or when i will proceed yet.
As I said, remove the cam cover first, which is relatively easy, to see if there is a lot of coolant in that area along with the oil which should be there. Remove the oil or oil and coolant, in the wells using either a small oil syringe or soak it up will cloth, and check those core plugs. From what I can see £4k is what car joy are quoting for an exchange engine I'm not sure if that is around the amount required to do it over here and is the car worth spending £4k on.
At this stage an engine exchange is possibly way over the top, and in any case why go to Europe when I have engines here? I might do some investigation on the trailing arms to see if they will play ball to make life easier (as that is just my time) if i go ahead with the engine removal!
If you have a problem with a trailing arm or arms, then that sould be a major consideration first as these are not cheap! Also just to add the car never overheated when this happened and managed to drive home around 5miles without any misfiring or real loss of power, I only knew it happened because i did not have the engine cover on and could see the oil hitting the glass hatch !
Which is another reason that the first suspect should NOT be the head gasket. You need to find out what has happened before you can make any informed choice of how to proceed. Roy
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« Last Edit: June 17, 2020, 06:31:13 pm by roy4matra »
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tonyz59
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« Reply #27 on: September 15, 2020, 03:28:06 pm » |
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That trailing arm has rotted through in exactly the same place as my LH one did. I wonder if that's a common place for them to go, it's right in line with the wheel so would get a regular blast with gravel. I found that the RH one was completely solid, so I just bought a new LH one from Politecnic. I looked at options for welding the LH one, but when I chopped it in half to send the hub to Politecnic I got a full dustpan of rust out of the inside of the trailing arm. That's a lot of metal gone missing, so I'm glad I did it. I could hear it all rolling round inside before I cut it in half, but I could hear very little sound coming from the RH arm. At £670 a pop it wasn't worth buying a RH one when I didn't need it.
Nice bar BTW 
Does the politecnic arm come with the bushes or are they an extra cost ? my right arm looks like it has been replaced in the past, it almost looks like it has been galvanised. on my elan turbo the rear lower wishbones are a known weak spot, and are similar price to the murena ones luckily for me they had been replaced in the past and these are galvanised as well now.
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« Last Edit: September 17, 2020, 09:03:06 pm by Anders Dinsen »
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Matraman
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« Reply #29 on: September 21, 2020, 01:03:53 pm » |
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I like that tilting lift, I used a combination of trolley jacks and axle stands, more time consuming for sure. If I did the job again I would remove the gearbox and engine separately even though it's a bit more fiddly, but there's less weight to haul in and out. I have a hydraulic bike lift on wheels for dragging the engine out and putting it back, but it was on the limit of its capacity with the combined engine and gearbox unit, so was I! In fact your photo seems to show you have something similar.
The Politecnic price included the bushes and wheel bearing, but they won't fit them, so you have to do that yourself. I had a nightmare trying to fit the bushes with a small hydraulic press I borrowed from a neighbour, so in the end another neighbour took it to a truck maintenance shop and got everything pressed into place there. I recommend not trying threaded bars and winding these things in, they are just too tight in my limited experience.
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« Last Edit: September 21, 2020, 01:09:07 pm by Matraman »
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Andrew
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