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krede
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« Reply #26 on: February 27, 2007, 08:47:19 am » |
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Wasn't it Homer Simpson that said "It's better to beg forgiveness than to ask for permission"?? Uhh that dosnt apply only to Mr.Simpson... In fact.. Its widely used in the Army aswell (especially the Us Army.... want an example.. Iraq??  .. well I guess they sort of asked for permission to invade.. but when they didnt get it they did it anyway... and now they want forgiveness... oh my...) This tactic has also served me well with good old mom.... and various female "acquaintances".. though in the latter case the "forgiveness" part, can turn out very expensive!!!  Anyway.. back to topic. I'll start out with the front dampers set to "stun" or in normal terms the softest possible...with the torsionbars still in place I figure I really dont need them any harder. (actually I will start with waiting until the snow is gone for good before instaling anything) The rear should be more simple as the ridehight is easy to tell right away, and set the dampers using my backside as the "gauge"  After all Im not looking for race track handeling. But, if oppotunety arises, It could be cool to bring it to the track and check out how it performs when pressed hard.. |
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #27 on: February 27, 2007, 12:46:42 pm » |
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This tactic has also served me well with good old mom.... and various female "acquaintances".. though in the latter case the "forgiveness" part, can turn out very expensive!!!
 This reminds me of a blog where someone wrote about an accident he had with his Elise, he thought the car was less forgiving for his taking it for granted than his wife was! Anyway.. back to topic.
I'll start out with the front dampers set to "stun" or in normal terms the softest possible...with the torsionbars still in place I figure I really dont need them any harder. (actually I will start with waiting until the snow is gone for good before instaling anything)
The rear should be more simple as the ridehight is easy to tell right away, and set the dampers using my backside as the "gauge"
After all Im not looking for race track handeling.
There's an instruction to check the ride heigth in the workshop manual, I don't remember if you have that or not, if you don't, then I can copy the relevant pages. As I mentioned, the ride height directly controls the camber of the rear wheels (and is the only way to change that) so it's a good idea to get it roughly right. But, if oppotunety arises, It could be cool to bring it to the track and check out how it performs when pressed hard..
I hope the Danish club (formand, vil du måske tage teten?) will arrange something, possibly in coorporation with one of the other clubs. It really teaches you a thing or two about your car, especially when you - as I did - cross the border between control and loosing it as I did on a wet track back in August. I'd love to repeat that experience on new tyres and a dry track, and hopefully with an experienced Murena driver in the passenger seat This year's meeting is set out for Fyn which has lots of narrow roads to run, but taking your car to the limit on the road is a silly idea IMO. Trying the setup systematically on a track will teach you something about the effects of the various adjustments you can do. The track times (and improvements) will tell you something about what you have to play with. You have to plan the session though, trying out different settings. - Anders |
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration)
Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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