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Author Topic: Putting back the plastic  (Read 5627 times)
valross
Full Member
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Posts: 95


Bagheera X 1980 + 7 CitroŽn


« on: January 07, 2008, 11:09:12 pm »

Hello!
In my workshop manual there is a section that in detail shows how to put together the plastic body parts onto the metal structure.
The pictures show which glues and sealings to use and where:

http://www.ordsak.se/bilder%20ordsak/Skarvar2.jpg

The workshop manual recommends five different products to use:

1 Adherit
2 Colle rťsine
3 Compriband
4 Joint tubing
5 Cordon Solbit

Can theese products be found today? Are there any products today that can be used instead of the products I listed?
I would be most greatful for any help!

Lasse
« Last Edit: January 08, 2008, 09:24:02 pm by valross » Logged
Stig
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Posts: 48


« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2008, 08:38:21 am »

Hi Lasse,

It has now been 3 years since I glued back my door frame using the "Biltema Window Sealant" glue and it is not showing any signs of ageing or any other problems. This is a polyurethan glue. Same type as Sikaflex etc.

Stig
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valross
Full Member
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Posts: 95


Bagheera X 1980 + 7 CitroŽn


« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2008, 10:32:44 pm »

Hello Stig,

Window Sealant would correspond to no 5 "Cordon Solbit"
But what corresponds to No 1-3 Huh
No 4 is a special rubber tube sealing

http://www.ordsak.se/bilder%20ordsak/Skarvar2.jpg

Lasse
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Stig
Jr. Member
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Posts: 48


« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2008, 12:16:23 am »

Hi Lasse,

Windows sealant is actually rather misleading since it is a multipurpose polyurethane based glue / sealant. Biltema sells it in 3 colours, black, grey and white. Only the black is called window sealant.
The white is called Marine sealant. Cant remember the name of the grey. It is all the same stuff.

I have used it for all joints between glass and metal and glassfiber against metal. It takes very long to cure which I think is good because it gives you plenty of time to adjust the pieces.
The cured sealant can be overpainted.

For the windscreen you really should use a special glass primer. This and the glue is available at any car glas firm.

In short.

1 - 3  Biltema sealant
4 standard rubber seal available per meter
5  Glass primer and polyurethan based sealant bought from a glas firm.

Another option is Sikaflex but it is twice the price of Biltema.

Regards,

Stig
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Spyros
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Posts: 323

I'm a real donkey!


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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2008, 03:12:07 pm »

Just a comment,

Whenever you want to glue fiberglass panels, there are 2 categories to considers.
- Panels that will never be removed again, except if you need to do again a full restoration. For those, I agree and do the same : Windscreen glue.
In this category, I'm listing the roof and the doors.

- Panels that you might one to remove.
In this category, the nose, on serie II Bagheera, the rear wings, Sills covers.
For these, if you use windscreen glue, you will damage them if you need to remove them.
That's why Matra used another type of sealant : The grey kind of chewin gum that is soft but still stick to whatever it touch...
These panels needs to be removed occasionally.
There are other products more appropriate to these.
Depending of what you have localy available, I'd search for uncurred butyl.
It sticks but you can allways remove, reposition the pannel.

Also, I don't know Biltema and his price but on the price, I can also comment that Renault is still selling kits to glue the old espaces that where produced by Matra. These kits contains Sikaflex but are twice more expensive than the same sikaflex cartridge. Since Matra used them to glue the Espace Fiberglass panels, you can expect than these are as efficient as the original old products.
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valross
Full Member
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Posts: 95


Bagheera X 1980 + 7 CitroŽn


« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2008, 07:38:22 pm »

Thank you all for your comments!
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