Passenger side electric window

[Bart_Maztra]

Just fixed my power window (passenger side) today.

I took the complete mechanism out. Then i noticed that the window slides very easily up/down in de sliders. Just to be sure i sprayed silicon spray in the sliders.
I have drown the motor with wd40. The collector and the carbon brushes seemed Ok to me The steel cable and sprocket are also drown with teflon spray.

Result: the window goes up and down again And quite fast aswell!

[Matraman]

It's an old thread now, but can anyone tell me how to extract the window mechanism from the door? I've managed to source a brand new Renault 9 regulator and motor. I've tried just fitting the motor but the mechanism is still slowing it right down. I'd like to get it all out and give the whole lot a clean or use all/part of the new mechanism. The problem is the guide tube passes through the door handle bracket so I can't slide the mechanism out.

Do I remove the door handle bracket or dismantle the window mechanism? Or am I missing an easier solution. Any help gratefully received 🙂

[TELBOY]

Please dont cut the door about as someone did on mine! . Roy is the expert on this but......this is how I did it. Remove door interior door handle , if the motor is stuck unbolt the three bolts and disconnect the motor, on the end of the motor you will see two screws that hold the motor body to the actuator, undo these and remove the motor away from its housing, push the window down so the bolts holding the window into the actuator can be undone through the large gap at the bottom of the door. push the window up and it can be angled and removed. Undo the two bolts that hold the mechanism upright. There is a small nut on the underside of the door that bolts to the actuator at the bottom. Once these are removed the entire mechanism including the remainder of the motor can be wriggled out by moving the bottom of the actuator to the right and the upper part to the left and it will fall to the bottom of the door and can be removed through the large gap. If you have to force anything you have done it wrong. Be patient it does come out easily once you get the hang of it.
The renault 9 actuator is not a straight swap. The motor will be in a different place as I found out. If you are just swapping the motor, at the other end of where the motor spindle goes into the housing you will see a small grub screw, this will need adjusting to allow for the slightly longer motor shaft, slacken right out fit the motor then do up until you feel resistance then undo quarter turn.
See my blog (EOW1W) PAGE 7 AND 18

[Matraman]

Thanks for the response. I’ve had the mechanism loose several times and have managed to get the motor in and out. The main point which helps me is knowing that I need to remove the inner door handle, which I haven’t done yet. I assume I don’t need to drill out the rivets in that area, but just release the lock washers at the top and bottom of the handle pivots. Does that sound right?

[TELBOY]

The metal.part.on mine was boltet in so presumably if it riveted yes u will have to drill them out. Check the grub screw first as if its too tight on the shaft it will prevent the motor from turning freely. If you look on.my page 7 there is a good.pboto of it or where it has been removed before i fitted the new.motor

[Matraman]

Just to clarify, I'm talking about removing the door release handle, not the grab handle used for pulling the door shut. The grab handle was 2 easy bolts, the release handle looks more complicated. There's a metal frame which supports the release handle and the white tube part of the window mechanism passes right through this frame. If I slide it through this frame one way the window lifter won't go through, if I go back the other way the actuator won't go through. Maybe it just unhooks somewhere at the back out of sight, like the hook at the top of the door which supports the window lifter?

[TELBOY]

Sorry didnt explain it well. The metal part.that is (inyour case ) is riveted.to.the door needs to be removed. As the tube passes through it. but before you do all this check the grub screw is not too tight and preventing the motor from turning freely. The renault 9 motor.has a slightly longer shaft so if you didnt slacken off the grub screw it will be pressing against it and massivly compromising performane

[roy4matra]

Just to clarify, I'm talking about removing the door release handle, not the grab handle used for pulling the door shut. The grab handle was 2 easy bolts, the release handle looks more complicated. There's a metal frame which supports the release handle and the white tube part of the window mechanism passes right through this frame. If I slide it through this frame one way the window lifter won't go through, if I go back the other way the actuator won't go through. Maybe it just unhooks somewhere at the back out of sight, like the hook at the top of the door which supports the window lifter?

Hold on a minute.  You shouldn't need to remove the door release metal plate, from an original electric window mechanism at all, I never have, and I've had these mechanisms out on these doors many times.  It's a while since the last time and I'll have to go have a look at mine to refresh my memory, but you shouldn't need to undo anything except the door pull handle, the three motor mount bobbins, the window glass and the upright runner.  You unhook the plastic at the top from behind the alloy clip so you don't need to drill that rivet at all.  You disconnect the wring plug from the motor, and the whole mechanism including the motor should come out through the large opening along the bottom of the door.

I've even taken these out on the side of the road with nothing more than a screwdriver and 10 mm spanner so that should tell you how easy it can be.

Roy

[TELBOY]

I think we are calling the same thing different names Roy. I had to remove the metal plate that the the interior door handle fits to. The tube for the worm drive passed behind one of the mounts and in front of the other. However on my two cars these mounts were different (possibly because the white one had manual winders and the black one may have originally had electric windows)

[roy4matra]

I think we are calling the same thing different names Roy. I had to remove the metal plate that the the interior door handle fits to. The tube for the worm drive passed behind one of the mounts and in front of the other. However on my two cars these mounts were different (possibly because the white one had manual winders and the black one may have originally had electric windows)

I know what piece you are talking about Terry, but you do not need to remove it to get the electric window mechanism out.  Until I can check mine tomorrow I can't give you the details as I need to refresh my memory, but I'm sure mine also has the worm cable tube passing there but you can still get it out.  It may be yours was routed incorrectly if you had to remove it, but I will check and take photos tomorrow if I can.

Roy

[JV]

I'm also eager to know as I have to repair or replace the motor of the window mechanism left side.

[Matraman]

With a combination of a new motor, adjustment of the regulator screw (thanks TELBOY) and copious amounts of WD40 I now have a properly functioning electric window on the driver's side. Very useful in this hot weather!
Even though I may not now need to, I still can't see how to extract the whole mechanism without releasing the door opener support bracket or bending it significantly, the attached photo shows the bracket and the white tube passing between it and the inner door skin. This is the same on the other door as well, so probably not a mistake by someone fiddling with it previously.
The passenger door's window was completely dead, but there was power there. After giving it the same WD40 and regulator screw treatment as the driver's door it's coming back to life. The thermal cutout on this old motor isn't as slow to recover as the old driver's door motor was, so it's easier to get the lubricant in there. I'll hopefully get it finished soon, put the door cards on and get to the MOT station for its first visit in 21 years!

[TELBOY]

Well done matraman. Good luck on the mot. Am not too far behind you. You may need to resize your photo

[roy4matra]

With a combination of a new motor, adjustment of the regulator screw (thanks TELBOY) and copious amounts of WD40 I now have a properly functioning electric window on the driver's side. Very useful in this hot weather!
Even though I may not now need to, I still can't see how to extract the whole mechanism without releasing the door opener support bracket or bending it significantly, the attached photo shows the bracket and the white tube passing between it and the inner door skin. This is the same on the other door as well, so probably not a mistake by someone fiddling with it previously.

I have removed my drivers door trim panel (I can't get at the passenger door in the garage) and taken this photo which shows the 'white tube' through which the worm slides, passing in front of one fastening of the panel to the door.  You can see the space around is just enough to wriggle the mechanism through, provided you have removed the motor.  Of course the Renault substitute might not go through as I haven't seen one and have no idea what its exact shape and size is.  I've had this car from new and never taken it out so it is exactly as it came from the factory.

However, as you have now got it working, well done.  (perhaps you would remove that huge photo though and replace it with one scaled to no more than 800 pixels wide, please!  Thank you.)

The passenger door's window was completely dead, but there was power there. After giving it the same WD40 and regulator screw treatment as the driver's door it's coming back to life. The thermal cutout on this old motor isn't as slow to recover as the old driver's door motor was, so it's easier to get the lubricant in there. I'll hopefully get it finished soon, put the door cards on and get to the MOT station for its first visit in 21 years!

Remember that the feeds and earths to the passenger door switch pass through the switch on the drivers door so BOTH must work properly.  Many owners miss this fact when checking why the passenger window doesn't work.  Fortunately this wasn't one of your problems.

Update, now I have downloaded and reduced your photo so I can make it out fully, I can see that the opening in my door where the plate is attached is larger than yours, which may be the reason I can get mine out!  If the hole is smaller then it would present more of an obstacle, and probably require the removal of the plate first.  Obviously Matra didn't stick to a standard when assembling these cars!!

Roy

[Matraman]

Hi Roy
Thanks for that photo, it shows that the handle hole in your inner door skin is much larger than the holes on both my doors. Where the door pull bolts attach on mine is behind the inner door skin and the bolts go through holes in the skin. It explains my problem. They must have tried a different style of inner skin at some point in 1983.

Apologies for the massive photo previously but I’ve no idea how to modify or even delete it. Newbie problem 🙄