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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2007, 10:28:20 am » |
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Hello Anders, You don't need to demount the cyl.head! You can easilly (well not easilly if Your hands aren't from rubber ) demount the water pump, than upper cover (first demount the distributor), band-wheel and than simply demount the lower cover. You only must be carefull with the small piece of gasket between upper and lower covers. Maybe that You will must to demount the lower engine silentblock and release the engine little bit down, but lucky for You - You will have more space for repair The most important is, that You won't must to demount the timing chain and make all set ups after demounting/mounting the cyl.head. Good Luck! Hi Michael It seems that the thing about the head was mostly a misunderstanding between Roy and I - last evening I realised that it shouldn't be necessary, but discussing it with Roy (over e-mail), he was skeptical whether the cam chain covers could come off with the engine still in the car - he did remember one english club member having done it, though, but has never done it himself. But tt sounds like you have experience, Michael! I did think it would be possible too - after studying the Tagora engine manual last evening. I've got a few worries, though: - Getting the pulley off the crank shaft - I guess it will take a bit of fighting as it will be impossible to get a tool on it to pull it off. - The top cam cover is fitted on the side of the head in a way that may make it difficult to get off. - Whether I'll be able to make the sump gasket seal after removing and refitting the lower cover. - Whether the piece of the head gasket fitting between the two halves will seal again afterwards. I agree that it's best not to mess with the chain and head as that would bring up all sorts of problems... Thanks for all the sympathy, everyone - Anders
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« Last Edit: March 15, 2007, 10:30:17 am by Anders Dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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michaltalbot
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« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2007, 01:40:32 pm » |
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My experience? Bought my first Murena in April 2002 with damaged camshaft - first repair of the engine. Than I started to drive with it, but after few months the water cooler gone broken and I've boiled the engine = cyl.head was broken - second repair of the engine. I paid for welding the head but they brush it more than I though and after few kms the distributor drive was squeezed under the camshaft. It was very ugly damaged because it was seized hard - third engine repair. I demounted the upper cover, took other one and brushed the bottom of it and than it was fine. After 8000 kms welded cyl.head gone broken again so - fourth engine repair. Than was everything fine for cca 2 years till the moment when I made the burnout and the throttle pedal stays blocked on the floor what I find too late - at the same moment when I press the clutch pedal, the engine reached the red torque zone and valves hits pistons... - fifth repair of the engine And now I am finishing the renovation on my Murena 2,2 S which I bought with damaged engine - sixth repair (and last - I hope!). Well is that enough for experience with Murena engine?
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michaltalbot
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« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2007, 03:47:09 pm » |
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Hm, I think that these engines ARE reliable - my experience with 2,2 in Tagora, where I have cca 600.000 kms driven (1999-now), but problem is that in the Tagora 70% of cooling is done by water and 30% by wind which going through the front grill around the engine. But in Murena, the air is going from the down side of the space between engine and body, and rear side of the engine is cooled deficiently. If everything is in perfect condition, everything works, but if not, the problem will come very early. 2,2 in Tagora holds everything, but in Murena it is very sensitive.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2007, 08:45:24 pm » |
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Further inspection showed that the cause I pointed out below is quite unlikely, and that it is much more likely that the source of the leak was the thick hose connecting the return pipe from the radiator to the water pump inlet: Then why was I seeing water coming from the joint between the chain cover and the block? I'm quite certain that water was dripping out of the hose in the end by the water pump (the thick end showing above), down on the top of the cover where the long bolt fastening the water pump passes through it and into the block. When looking from above, there's a groove in which the water can flow, and it will end up by the block, spilling over. I'm replacing that piece of hose now, and then I hope the problem will be fixed. In other words: No engine problem, just 25 year old plumbing! - Anders
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« Last Edit: March 18, 2007, 08:47:10 pm by Anders Dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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Anders Dinsen
Administrator
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Posts: 3188
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« Reply #13 on: March 20, 2007, 10:17:16 pm » |
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Lucky man! Problems like these (repaired in 5 minutes) are the best ones Thanks! Well, it's not exactly a five minute job, but I think I know what you mean. You know, it's a special piece of hose with a 120 degrees bend (or so) and two different sizes either end. It's not the kind of hose you get from your local parts warehouse. Unless I could find a similar piece in a VW or Volvo or something, but I don't have the time to investigate, so I have ordered it from Simon - and he promised to send it Monday, which means that I'll be receiving it later this week. Besides, now that I have drained the cooling system already (at least halftway I think), I found it was time to renew the two water pipes in the engine room. They are still the original steel ones and this one at least is quite rusty: New stainless steel pipes there will match the stainless pipes I have running under the car to the radiator and heater, so that will be "one less thing to worry about". I'm quite looking forward to going through the refilling procedure (including removing trapped air) - and that will probably also take an hour or so to do. - Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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