But, have you heard about the damper puley issue ?Yes I know about the damper pulley issues, and when you are aware of this, it's an easy job to change the pulley with every 2nd cambelt change!
Have you heard about the "special clutch" ?I believe the clutch you are refering to is the dual mass clutch found on the RHZ(DW10ATED) engine... This is a "strange" construction, that isn't used on my RHY (DW10TD) engine. The clutch on the RHY is usually good for approx. 300Nm and a upgraded clutch (good for 400Nm) can be bought for 230...
Have you heard about the EGR valve that is far from simple to disconnect without generating another electric alarm that will lock the engine. ? Why should I disconnect the EGR
It's there for a good reason!
Lower admission, lower fuel consumption and better torque when running part throttle...
Have you seen the tar that you can remove from this EGR valve that will strangle your admission ?Yes I have cleaned the EGR system more than once on the HDI... The problem is mainly there when running long service intervals... I'm always doing 10-12,000 oil change intervals and cleaning the EGR every 150-200,000km is fine.
Have you heard about these marvlous exhaust that rust and snap at the welding (impossible to repair) Not using the standard exhuast... but yes I agree the PSA exhuast connection are crap!
Did you think that even the 110 pk engines needs a heat exchanger and that a heat exchanger need a lot of fresh air that you will NOT get in the engine bay ? I'm using a charge cooler as mentioned... by the way, the RHY can be run at 120bhp without any extra cooling.
Did you see that the good breakers will try to get ALL the peripherics up to the contact key because when this is not recognized you get plenty of electrical issues ?I'm not stupid... I bought a complete car in UK and have the complete electrics up to the egnition key!
This is also the best way to get parts, buying a car in the UK and selling it on as spare parts. That way I can usually get an engine with accesories for free...
Have you heard about the fact that some of them have a very very problematic Siemens fule pump (Bosch is no issue) ?Guess what... I made sure to get an Bosch
Did you hear about all the HDI who stops because of a bad electrical contact "somewhere" ..
Or Lock themselves in "safe" mode, so that you can drive at 1500 rpm maximum
Or do it when the engine is at temperature ?
Have you heard people being told that there is "a problem" with the injectors and that all the system needs to be replaced at a cost more expensive than their car value ?µ
Have you heard about new precharge pump that don't provide enough presure ?No I never had a HDI engine lock itself into safe mode without a reason... Using the diagnostic tool have always helped me!
Injectors problems are not very common, and new injectors can be found at very reasonable cost.
Here in Denmark we consider a HDI diesel to be good for at least 350,000km but again we are kind of strange due to the high tax on cars
When with the 1300 , 1440 , 1590 cc Matra engine, 300.000 km are possible, most of these HDI don't get to that milleage.But I would hate to go 300,000km with these loud, inefficient and poluting petrol engines
I'm living with this engine every day and I can tell you that at 200.000 Km, you just think about throwing it away. And this with the standard untuned power.I drove 2,000km with the 1590ccm Talbot/Matra engine and was shocked by the dated construction...
Here in Denmark we acually have some of the most experienced guys in HDI tuning, we are having people from Germany and UK coming over to have their Peugeot 206 HDI remapped...
To correct any misunderstandings I haven't driven with HDI engines for 1,200,000km, but between the 4 of my family members who have been running HDI engines I have serviced engines that have done this mileage in total...
I'm not trying to convince anyone, but I don't feel like having Spyros telling me what I can or can't do, when I sure know what I'm doing!