Jon Weywadt
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« on: October 18, 2009, 01:06:54 pm » |
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In the post http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1522.15.html I wrote about my cooling problems one day on the way home from work. In the photo below you can see the hole in the cooling pipe right where the front bracket fastens the pipes to the bottom of the car. The rubber grommets are a prime place for the pipes to rust, so based on my experience I advice you all to keep a close eye on the pipes. The new stainless steel pipes, that Jan, Jesper and I ordered from Matra Magic back in august, have finally arrived. They look nice (photo). This coming week we will have them electro polished at a local galvano company. They should turn briliantly smooth and thus be more resistant to "flying rust" (like you see in a dishwasher when an iron or steel item is mixed in among the stainless stuff) So far I am the only one of us who desperately need the pipes replaced. More pictures as the replacement move along. By the way, my experience says that you have to remove the fiberglass shield in the front compartment in order to get the pipes out.
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« Last Edit: October 25, 2009, 01:49:24 pm by Jon Weywadt »
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davidewanprice
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« Reply #7 on: October 25, 2009, 03:49:43 pm » |
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Very Bling! Be sure to take a mirror to show them off now! How easy was it to get the old pipes out?
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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2009, 01:35:33 pm » |
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Social activities arranged by my wife (she obviously does not realize that I would rather play with my car ) Kept me busy. But I did manage to make new brackets to hold the new pipes in place. If you want to get an idea of how to make them I have added photos below. The brackets start out as a 3cm X 20cm piece of stainless steel. First drill 8 mm holes at each end. Mark lines for the initial bends, 22mm from each end and 70 mm from each end for the middle bends. Bend the middle first at about 30 degrees and the ends at 60 degrees from that. The result can be seen below. To get the curved bend you can do it by hand around a pipe or such. But the easiest requires a block with a 90 degree grove in it and a 1.1/4" socket (or such) I place the socket and block so they are centered on the curve I want to bend and close the vice. Slack off a bit and slide the bracket to one end and tighten the vice, then the other end. The result turned out quite nice. A small bit of twisting and beding may be necessary to get the shape just right. But compared to the original rusty brackets this will work quite well. Of course they will be polished to a bright shine, but I didn't have time for that yet. Update. I thought the drawing would be convenient to have here and of course the polished brackets and hose clamps.
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« Last Edit: November 21, 2009, 07:52:18 pm by Jon Weywadt »
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Oetker
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« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2009, 01:55:21 pm » |
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Quote ------- she obviously does not realize that I would rather play with my car. ============================================= a common problem Nice job. I had the luck to buy some galvenised from a fellow member. It will save some time, however loosing the bolts is difficult, despite the 2 litre WD40 I puted there the last few years. I am afraid it will break off the car making it a bit more difficult.
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different. Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #12 on: November 08, 2009, 04:57:35 pm » |
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Well, my cooling pipe project has been sidelined for several weeks now. This week I finally got the new hoses and clamps that I ordered from CarBuilderSolutions. They had the best type of stainless hose clamps that I coould find. I have added a photo of the clamps and the, now polished brackets that I made. The clamps have the threads pressed into the surface, rather than cut through the clamp. This is stronger and both the screw and housing are stainless too. So this weekend was to be assembly time. But, I have been struggling with my right hand, because my thumb had developed a "snap finger". This means that you cannot move it smothly, but that it has two positions, straight or bent. Anyway, my appointment to have it fixed was in april 2010, but wednesday the doctor called because he had a cancellation and could see me thursday. He subsequently scheduled me friday for the operation, which took half an hour. Result, I cannot work on the car for another two weekends.
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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #14 on: November 09, 2009, 08:55:11 am » |
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Hi Jon I hope you'll have a quick recovery with the thumb. I guess that after the operation, it will be quite a releif to have a fully functioning hand again! Good luck About the clamps, I admire your no-compromise style. Personally, I have found that the mild steel zinc plated hose clamps from Biltema are sturdy, good quality and value for the money. Non-perforated bands are kinder to the hoses, so I also prefer those, and most stainless clamps are perforated. /Anders Hi Anders. Thanks, you are right, it is really great to have the hand function normally again. It is already pain-free and the bandage is off. A week from now the suitures come out. About my "style", I never thought about it as no-compromise, but you are right. Over the years I have learned that doing things right the first time saves time and trouble in the long run. Since the clamps are very exposed under the car, stainless is the "right" way for me to go. Now, if only I could find indestructible hoses..
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« Last Edit: November 09, 2009, 06:37:13 pm by Anders Dinsen »
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