edd9000
Newbie
Posts: 8
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« on: April 18, 2014, 08:14:05 pm » |
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This is our Murena 2.2. We picked it up in Germany, in around 97, but I'm a bit hazy on that. Dad got it up and running and on the road and we went to a club meeting or two and visited the stand at the NEC. It was eventually taken off road in 2000-01 when it needed a brake repair which was done, then Dad emigrated to Florida, I followed and spend 5 years over there before coming back 18 months ago.
Since the car is just sitting waiting, I figured I may as well try and get it on the road again. It is a bit tired, the paint has failed, but its nothing some TLC wont fix.
Edd.
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« Last Edit: April 29, 2014, 10:19:42 am by edd9000 »
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edd9000
Newbie
Posts: 8
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« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2014, 06:57:24 pm » |
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It sounds like the fiber glass was not properly primed before the car was painted. You have to prime with a water tight epoxy primer before applying the paint. Moisture that penetrates the finer glass from behind will make the pint bubble up. I'd imagine it's had a respray before we got it, there is some evidence of overspray here and there. I bled the coolant today, the temperature gauge doesn't seem to be working so I checked at the thermostat housing with an IR temperature gun, held around 80 degrees at idle. Not sure the fan works so that's on the list to check. The oil pressure gauge doesn't work either. Other than that it seems functional, I may even attempt the MOT soon.
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GP
Sr. Member
Posts: 302
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« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2014, 10:45:37 pm » |
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It went through the MOT today, no advisories so it is now road legal. Went on an hours drive to pick up a new middle seat belt for the car, Seemingly no problems. Except the fuel gauge doesn't work. Well done, that is good news. The fuel gauge problem may be the cantilevered float sender unit inside the tank stuck in the empty position, if it has been standing with an empty tank for a long time. If not it is still the best place to start (other than the fuse board). To remove the sender unplug the connector on the tank and rig up a tool to unscrew the large plastic cover. Even if the sender is O.K. this would be a good opportunity to siphon/clean out all the *rap you will probably find inside the tank.
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roy4matra
YaBB God
Posts: 1203
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« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2014, 12:03:29 pm » |
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a bit late but welcome. Was the car outside all those years?
If gauges do not work I found that the connector under the screenwaterbottle has corrosion.
Corrosion on the large red wire in the yellow connector under the windscreen washer bottle (CC2) is common, BUT the only thing that wire feeds is the heated rear window relay (Zb) in the engine compartment, with power for the rear glass when the relay is switched on by the switch on the dash. That red wire is a live wire which is why it always corrodes as there is always potential there. As an auto electrician I have to say that I am surprised that Matra even fed the relay at the rear all the way from the front circuit board in the first place, especially as manufacturers love to save money wherever they can. The obvious place to feed that relay with live power was from the alternator which is very close in the engine compartment. This is one of my wiring improvements - dispense with the large red wire from the front and instead take a feed from the alternator to the relay AND change the relay to one with a built-in fuse (since it is no longer coming from the fuse board). Whilst talking of improvements, do you realise that the heater fan switch is fed from an unfused supply? This is why the wires often melt and the switch deteriorates when the heater fan motor starts using excess current. It should blow a fuse but this supply was never fused! (big mistake by Matra when they designed the circuit). Why does the fan motor start drawing excess current - usually because the bearings are getting tight from corrosion or lack of use when cars have been unused for years. The answer of course is to fit an in-line fuse in the supply to the switch. If the gauges on the dash are not working properly, the most likely causes are the circuit board edge connector terminals or the board itself, or the circuit membrane and connections at the back of the panel itself. Roy
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« Last Edit: May 11, 2014, 12:10:56 pm by roy4matra »
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