Hi Martin,
I managed to complete the cambelt/tensioner and idler pulley change and thought I would share my experience with the forum
Once the following had been removed- engine undertray, wheel, wheel arch panel, air cleaner assembly, Top engine mount and the plastic cambelt cover (a ratchet 10 mm spanner was useful on the cover bolts)
With the crankshaft locked I knocked up a tool from a length of angle that sat across the flats on the cams behind the cam wheels and bolted down into the two convenient bolt holes in the head.
Next the tensioner and belt were removed but for love nor money no way would the idler pulley bolt come out (it was hitting the inner wheel arch)
I had 2 options -
1/ the removal of hub, driveshaft etc etc to get the bolt below the inner wing or after a little measuring-
2/ use a small tank cutter to drill/cut a hole through the 2 skins from under the wheel arch. With this done the bolt had the clearance for removal along with the pulley. Later both holes had a rubber grommet popped into them.
On reassembly I found the new belt was to tight to go round all the cam wheels and pulleys, so after a lot of umming and aarghing I realised that it would be ok to remove the inlet cam wheel unscrewing the 3 x 6 mm bolts, make sure the inlet wheel and camshaft are marked, white paint pen or similar (also slacken the 3 bolts on the exhaust cam wheel as this allows the new belt to mesh more easily)
The tensioner is now temporarily locked in it's slackest position, now route the belt and lastly place the inlet cam wheel into mesh with the belt (line the paint marks up so that bolt holes do) then gently push/pull cam wheel over the camshaft end and replace the bolts
Now with all 6 cam wheel bolts half a turn loose adjust the belt tensioner with an Allen key until the pointer lines up with the middle of the two prongs (there are 4 prongs on the backing plate as you look at it, the 2 on the left straddle a roll pin the 2 on the right are for the pointer) finally lock the centre nut and now tighten all 6 cam wheel bolts.
Please note- both cam wheels have slotted bolt holes, these allow spot on valve timing.
Double triple check everything is correct, when satisfied remove locking tools then gently turn the engine over 3 or 4 times. I also ran the engine up and then readjusted the belt before fitting the plastic cover, this is worth doing as once the belt had centralised more adjustment was needed
I also removed the EGR and it's housing and associated pipe, then carefully scrapped the carbon deposits away then washed in paraffin (the EGR and pipe are both originals according to the information on this site, so I will keep an eye out for early signs of failure)
Martin thank you for explaining what the pipe behind the sump was for. (overflow for the Eberspächer unit)
I think I have a problem connected to this
,
when the engine is now run up after a short while white smoke turning to black is emitted from this pipe, It would appear that the smoke is unburnt diesel.
Am I right in thinking that this unit uses derv for it's heat source, do you think I have inadvertently either blown a fuse or knocked a wiring connector off the heater unit.
I am going to have a look at this tomorrow, again thank you for your advice, if anyone can help it would be much appreciated, cranky
Turned out nice again "Mother"