Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #15 on: April 12, 2009, 11:21:59 pm » |
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It's a new starter from simons, but the old also had problems with the same symptoms.... I can hear the starter clicking when I turn the key. And when i disconnect the small "wire" is does nothing. So believe that wire is okay.. I have disconneted the big wire (the one from the batteri). Tried with a testlamp, but there is no power going to the end... Conclusion there no power in that cabel... There is also a "mediun" wire.. But can't measure anything on that... I think I took it off the same place as the "big" wire I can almost not turn it, despite having jumpcables on the starter itself... But where is the engine earth strap located..?? Thought the starter simply got the earth from the bolts... Everything else works fine besides the starter... The "clicking" sound is the selenoid being pulled when you turn the ignition key. The "Big" wire and the "medium" wire should be connected to the same post on the selenoid. The medium wire comes from the alternator and charges the battery through the big wire. If the big wire is broken or the connector on the battery is severely coroded, you will not charge the battery or be able to draw power to the starter. Placing jumper cables, negative on the engine block somewhere, and positive on the starter, should definitely crank the engine at normal revs. Is the starter engaging the cogs on the flywheel and trying to crank the engine? If you have a spare battery that you know is good and are using it to jumper the starter, try placing it in front instead of the old battery and see what happens. As suggested, make sure the poles and connectors are clean. Also try measuring resistance (there shouldn't be any) from the negative battery pole to the engine block.
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suffolkpete
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« Reply #21 on: May 17, 2009, 10:05:58 am » |
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If the electric motor sometimes does not start turn, it's most likely the contacts in the solenoid. Could be the battery in a low state of charge. If the lights dim when you operate the starter, then it's the battery. If you hear a click and the lights do not dim then, as Anders says, it's the solenoid because the motor isn't drawing any current. You don't need a clamp-on ammeter to test the charging. Put some electrical load on the system, such as turning on the headlights, and run the engine up to about 2000 rpm. Measure the voltage directly across the battery terminals. If it's about 14 to 14.4 volts, then your charging system is fine. If there was a problem, then surely you'd notice a low reading on the dashboard voltmeter anyway.
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Jon Weywadt
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Posts: 1002
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« Reply #22 on: May 17, 2009, 06:51:15 pm » |
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Could be the battery in a low state of charge. If the lights dim when you operate the starter, then it's the battery. If you hear a click and the lights do not dim then, as Anders says, it's the solenoid because the motor isn't drawing any current. You don't need a clamp-on ammeter to test the charging. Put some electrical load on the system, such as turning on the headlights, and run the engine up to about 2000 rpm. Measure the voltage directly across the battery terminals. If it's about 14 to 14.4 volts, then your charging system is fine. If there was a problem, then surely you'd notice a low reading on the dashboard voltmeter anyway.
Well, I had a battery charger hooked up over night. The charging current drops to 0 amps, but the voltage across the battery is only 13,2 V dropping to 12,5 V after the chargfer has been disconnected for some time. I started the car by jumpering the battery. After removing the jumpers I measure 14,7 V with the engine at idle. My conclusion from this is that the alternator is charging fine. 14,7 v is plenty of power. The way the battery behaves make me think that one of the cells has gone bad, causing it to deliver insuficient amps for the selenoid and starter.
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