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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2020, 06:36:48 am » |
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Hi Daniel Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your Murena! Great to hear about you and your car. The front wheel bearings are indeed pressed into the uprights. The uprights are connected to the lower and upper suspension arms. The way to replace them is usually to take the uprights off the car and push the old bearing out and press the new one in using a hydraulic press. This is somewhat more complicated than on most cars due to the torsion bar suspension on the front that is connected to the lower suspension arm and which needs to be secured while working on the upright. Also, the car could then need a wheel alignment as it will be difficult to do without distorting the tracking of the front wheels a little bit. Two hours of work does not sound unreasonable to me. However there is an alternative way that requires a special tool, but should work just as well. It's simply a wheel bearing removal tool that comes with a spindle and a set of cups and dishes that can be used to push the old bearing out and press the new one in. Provided the joints are fine and doesn't need replacement anyway, it could save some work. I have this one myself: https://www.biltema.dk/bil---mc/bilvarktoj/chassisvarktoj/hjullejevarktoj/varktojssat-til-forhjulslejer-2000021491Note that the brake discs on the Murena are mounted on the inside of the hub so it may be a good idea to replace them and the brake pads now that you are taking things apart anyway. I know this is a bigger job than just replacing the bearing since now you will be replacing both sides, but you'll be happier in the longer run. Best, Anders
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« Last Edit: July 16, 2020, 08:12:57 am by Anders Dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2020, 07:39:13 pm » |
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Hi Daniel
First about threading... I'd say you should feel free to use one thread or multiple threads as you wish. For example I keep an open thread describing my restoration project - it started out as a small task of getting the car back on the road, so that's what the title of the thread says, but it turned otherwise. I find it's interesting for some to follow the stories of different owners. For expert advice on a specific subject keeping threads may be helpful, of course.
Yeah, I agree - leave this to the garage and let a professional fix your problem. Do consider my advice about replacing both bearings, brake discs and pads while you're at it.
U-joint isn't too difficult to replace, so if you feel comfortable about doing that, don't hesitate.
Good luck!
Best, Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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roy4matra
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« Reply #9 on: July 21, 2020, 07:49:03 pm » |
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There are four bolts that hold the wheel on, but only two holding the disc to the hub, one plain bolt and one stud that locates the wheel, which I assume are the ones to which you are referring.
No, that's not right Peter. There are four bolts holding the disc to the hub but one has the locating pin sticking out of the head, which is supposed to make it easier to locate the wheel on, but I never found that useful to be honest. This is why I now have a mandrel which is much better. The three plain bolts are part number 0012655111 (Simon's No. 11 016) and the special locating one is 0012655211 (Simon's No. 11 017) and they all have a washer 0081580911. These are all Simca/Talbot numbers not Matra specific. Although I have quoted Simon Auto's numbers, the three plain bolts would be obtainable here as there is nothing special about them - you just need the size, length and thread pitch. The one with the guide pin head is specific and wouldn't be available generally, but if you make up a mandrel you won't need that one anyway and can simply use four of the plain bolts. Roy
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« Last Edit: July 21, 2020, 08:07:06 pm by roy4matra »
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roy4matra
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« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2020, 08:35:55 pm » |
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... I will definitely check Roy's site (and have already visited it once but completely fooled by the minimalist looks and paper texture background I didn't spot the links for additional information).
The index page has links to extra index pages, and on the second index page there is a link to the FAQ's as well as the Technical articles Index page and Alternative part number pages. It was deliberately kept simple so that the pages load quickly, and since I hand code all my pages, they are easy for me to build or modify. But the information on them is reasonably comprehensive. -Update- So the garage apparently overlooked the problem that caused the knocking sound as it was indeed as I already had suspected to do with the right rear brake disc. I seen the mechanic try them for any play when the car was lifted but he couldn't find anything wrong. Yesterday night the sound became also extremely audible while driving and I didn't want to risk driving on so decided to call on road assistance. After a few checks to the drive shaft he decided to take the wheel off entirely and then test the disc. and it was very loose. Also it was only bolted on with two bolts for some reason... I just checked my workplace manual and that mentions that there's supposed to be 4 instead of two! So now I'm going to have to check all 4 and hunt down additional bolts.
Once you have checked all the hubs and disc bolts, if you find the missing bolt(s) are the guide bolts, since these will be harder to get, I would advise making a mandrel to help fit the wheels, and forget those guide bolts. Then you can just get enough plain bolts to replace those that are missing. The plain bolts should be easy enough to obtain. A mandrel is simply a shaft about 150 mm long with an M12x1.50 thread on one end, so that it can be screwed by hand into one of the wheel bolt holes. It doesn't need to be tight. Next you put the wheel on the shaft (through one of the bolt holes), side it down to the hub, and fit the other three wheel bolts. Now you can remove the mandrel and fit the last wheel bolt in its place. Torque up all wheel bolts and the job is done. Roy.
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« Last Edit: July 21, 2020, 08:42:10 pm by roy4matra »
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roy4matra
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« Reply #13 on: July 22, 2020, 06:54:54 pm » |
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Interesting about the bolts, my parts list only shows 2 although there is provision for four. I can endorse Roy's advice about the mandrel, simply get a long bolt of the correct thread and cut the head off. Much easier than using the guide bolt.
What parts list is that Peter? I have an original (new) Matra Murena parts microfiche, in English, which I obtained when I bought my new Murena 2.2 in January 1983. Being in the trade and having access to microfiche readers at work, and knowing that it would be unlikely a U.K. Talbot dealer would have one at that time, I obtained one for myself. I've also obtained over the years a few other French microfiche for Bagheera as well as Murena and I've had my own microfiche reader for many years too - when dealers were getting rid of them as they replaced them with computers, I got myself one of those free. Now the microfiche correctly states 6 of the plain bolts and 2 of the guide bolts for one axle. So I'm puzzled where you got a list that only states 2 plain bolts per brake disc. Over the years I have checked these microfiche and other parts lists like the ones turned into parts books, and I can tell you now that there are many, many mistakes, which I have corrected over the years as I turned mine into a computer version. This computer version has graphics on the left and the parts on the right are in text and number form which allows me to search by part number or text, which you cannot do with a microfiche or book. I have also corrected many of the drawings, text and numbers and even added in missing ones. I have probably the most accurate and comprehensive parts list for the Murena now. Roy, Is your email working correctly? I replied to your email about alternators and it bounced.
Actually it is ironic you should ask this at this moment as I only found out this morning myself that there was a fault, which is down to the changeover of my web hosting. The website was down for a few days whilst the changeover was happening, as you may have noticed, but that should be all sorted now, I hope. However, it appears the move has disrupted the domain email, and I have not received anything since last Friday (17th) and have notified them today. Hopefully it should be fixed in a few hours they say, but whether I will get all the missing emails or not, I won't know until it is fixed. I hope so, but you never can tell with these things. Anyway, give me until tomorrow at least, and if I get all the back emails, I can see tomorrow may be spent answering them all! Roy
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« Last Edit: July 22, 2020, 07:04:40 pm by roy4matra »
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