MatraSport Forum
Each model => Murena => Topic started by: RazorbackNOR on July 14, 2008, 02:55:55 pm
-
Could anybody PLEASE help me with what screws and other thing I need to remove in order to be able to remove the front bumper, if not, it seems a hacksaw or chainsaw might be the closest tool I'll be using the remove the bloddy thing!! >:( >:(
-
We're going to strip Waldos 2.2 on the coming Saturday. I'll bring my camera and document the procedure :)
-
;D You don't need to cut it ;) there are only 6 screws which has to be demounted and You don't need to demount those big ones which are on both sides (painted and rusty from inside). First of all, I'm allways demounting the headlamps (I won't write how, think You know it). First two screws are on the top, I think You have allready found them, second ones are down there, where are plastic housings for bar which open/close headlamps, the are holding also the long distance lights (you don't need to demount it by parts, just demount these two small screws, and you give away the bumper with lights and holders), and at least You must to demount small screws which are inside the corners of bumper. You will find them when You'll look straight into the upper corner of the bumper from the inside, they are holding the metal strip (which is not possible to demount, because those big screws are too rusty) to the chassis. And on the opposit side of this metal strip, there are two rivets, which You have to route away. That's all :)
-
Michal is correct, we did it today :D Here's a bit of photo documentation:
The bracket on the inside of the bumper:
(http://gallery.dinsen.net//d/9039-2/DSC_6665.JPG)
You CANNOT get the nut off the bolt in the middle, though that would be the correct way to do it. The problem is that you can't prevent the bolt from rotating and damaging the GRP because it will turn the square opening round. Instead remove the rivets connecting it to the wheel arch, and remove the bolt attaching the other end of the bracket to the chassis bumper bar (a bit difficult to access, but quite possible).
How to remove the rivets ;)
(http://gallery.dinsen.net//d/9042-2/DSC_6667.JPG)
I can post some more photos when I take the bumper out of the Espace tomorrow :D
-
DON'T drill out the rivets! the bracket is mounted in the front as well so it cant, and doesn't need to be, removed!!! .... just undo the bolts in the first picture (by any means necessary) and you will be fine..
-
DON'T drill out the rivets! the bracket is mounted in the front as well so it cant, and doesn't need to be, removed!!! .... just undo the bolts in the first picture (by any means necessary) and you will be fine..
But that was what we did yesterday.... we removed the bracket from the car, but left it on the bumper because we couldn't get the nut off bolt. Why have you changed your mind now? ;D
-
Must agree with Anders... Also we (Hans) managed to get the bracket of the car intact by undoing the rivets and the bolt that holds it on the chassis in the front.
By the way, some WD40 is essential ;)
-
ok!.. I thought Hans managed to undo the rusty bolts!... witch i reckon SHOULD be attempted before any drilling is authorised !
-
ok!.. I thought Hans managed to undo the rusty bolts!... witch i reckon SHOULD be attempted before any drilling is authorised !
Unfortunately not - he took the inaccessible (at least for my computer programmers' hands) bolt on the chassis off. I'm now left with the challenge of getting the rusty nut off >:( but I'll try your (or was it Hans'?) tip of cutting a groove in the bolt head so I can hold it in place with a screw driver while I work with the nut. I may also try the nut-crusher.... we'll see :) I have vacation now, so I'll enjoy myself taking the things apart (when I'm not busy with the kids.......... :o )
-
Hi
I would not cut a grove in the bolt. I would cut an remove the nut with a angel or straigth grinder. If done carfully you will be able to reuse the bolt.
Hans
-
Hi
I would not cut a grove in the bolt. I would cut an remove the nut with a angel or straigth grinder. If done carfully you will be able to reuse the bolt.
Hans
Is it a special bolt?
I thought I'd just find a similar bolt in a local builders shop. Perhaps I may even be able to find a stainless one. But I'll try the nutcrusher first then.
(http://www.carl-ras.dk/gfx/imager/catalog/48704112.jpg)
-
I just drilled the bolts from the outside, working up from small sizes of drill bit and adding copious amounts of water from time to time to stop heat build up (I used a cordless drill - not a good idea to mix 240V with water). If you are not careful you can melt the fibreglass.
I will either use galvanised replacements (haven't found any stainless ones) or try to work out a way of fixing the bolt head internal to the bumper and fill the external hole. They are bolts usually used for woodwork applications so quite happy to "lose" them!
-
First of all, I'm allways demounting the headlamps (I won't write how, think You know it).
No, I don't..... So if anybody would like to enlighteb me on this also.....
Thanks for the info on the bumper tho, will try to have a look at it some day soon now.
-
Hi,
Headlights are easy.
4 bolts that needs undoing from the wheel arch. I believe it's a 13mm spanner you will need.
They are located just behind the headlights, visible from the top when you "pop the hood". Though the bolts are flat/smooth on the top side, so you need to undo the nuts inside the wheel arch.
No need to take the wheel off though.
After that you only need to disconnect the cable and the link arm that raises the headlights.
-
Speaking of headlight pods.... The placement of the bolts for securing the bolts are less then good.... Especially in Norway were we use salt to remove the snow.... salt and iron does not make for a good combination..... So on my car the bolt were almost rusted through and upon trying to remove then....well you can guess the rest....
Does anybody have any bright ideas on some bolts to replace these, they also seem to be spotwelded in place. Been thinking of the idea of turning the bolt/nut upside down so the only thing that could be damaged was the round head of the bolt(if the space on the top allows it.)
-
Speaking of bumper.. seems like i perhaps have found out why mine is dropping......
-
Was looking through Simons catalog now for these parts, can anyone confirm that the two missing pieces which in on the car in this picture are parts 14003 and 14041. on the right side of the car that is.
-
Looks like they have rusted away and someone has replaced them with a single bar.
I haven't checked the numbers, but you are probably right - it should be the same both sides.
Cheers,
Anders
-
Yeah, probably something like that. And if the were a little out of measure that could also explain why the bumper has dropped a little...
Any thoughts on modifying the hinge fastner anyone....?
-
Any thoughts on modifying the hinge fastner anyone....?
If you grease the thread on the bolt well and soak everything in rust protection when you fit it, it shouldn't be so difficult to get off. The problem is 25 years without any protection - zinc plated bolts will develop a lot of rust in that time. If you use stainless bolts in addition to the protection, you should be safe.
-
But wouldn't it be better altogether flipping it round, one would have easier access for under the hood, there would be no need for rustprotection, and thus easier to remove for that reason too. ;)
Had mine been fitted this way in the first plac, im pretty sure i would have no problem inscrewing them now, and probably would't have snapped them either.
