MatraSport Forum

Apparently I need a new clutch?

Just getting the car on the road for summer, it was not running when I dropped it off as I had a fuel leak. Car is serviced and running now - fuel leaked sorted. However it wont move.

Been told they can select the gear but will not move. I thought it might be the Master cyclinder at fault and suggested this but they said definetely not. The clutch was not slipping when last used. Any ideas?

What is the part # for 2.2 Clutch, Clutch pressue plate and disk? Shared with anything else?

Thanks
Derek

Hi Derek.

What happens when they put in gear and release the clutch? Does the engine stall? They can get it in gear, but is that with the engine off? If they can get it in gear with the engine running that tells me that the clutch probably works ok.

My friend Jan and his son Peter are working on a 2.2 that has a peculiar problem. Sometimes, when it has been in reverse and is shifted into 1., the car won't move and the engine stalls. It is like it is in reverse and 1. gear at the same time. They have to shift into 2. and after that the gears work ok. Perhaps you have the same problem. Give us som more details of what is happening.

The partnumbers at Simons for the clutch are:

Clutch plare: 10010 appx. 88€
Throw-out bearing: 10012 appx. 43€
Pressure plate: 10013 appx. 102€
The above numbers come as a kit: 10017 for appx. 200€

Hi Jon,

Thanks for your reply.

They can get it in gear when the car is running but it will not move.

I personally don’t think the clutch is gone. I think you might be correct re stuck in between gears. I cant check at the moment as I am in London and the car is in Dublin. Will be back there in a couple of weeks so will check it then before I go and order a new clutch.

Cheers
Derek

When you look at the car, check the gear linkage.  It may be that it is not possible to move the lever far enough to select a gear.  Prime suspects are the ball and socket at the base of the gear lever, the top hat bush at the base of the gear lever and the ball joint right at the back of the car.  The L-shaped relay on the gearbox often seizes, but I assume this is ok because you would still be able to select 3rd & 4th if it was seized.

Check, this part for sticking.
(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/3103/p1000726medium.jpg)

(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5791/p1000727medium.jpg)

If it doesn't move freely change this parts.
(http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/4606/p1000729medium.jpg)
(http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/8548/p1000730medium.jpg)
Look here for to much play
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/2027/p1000732medium.jpg)
If on top of the gearbox at the linkage there is no rubber cap, controle or change the part 252104 and O-ring.

(http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/5416/baksmallfq3.jpg)
Also on the downside of the stick there is a bush wich wear in time.
Control it for play.

Cheers Oetker.
This bracket is giving me a hard time on the spare gearbox I am rebuilding.. any advice on how to remove it?..
Also... where did you find the brass bushes ?

Have you taken the circlip off?  If you have, then it can only be tight owing to seizure.  Work it back and forth whilst pushing off the pin, or warm it slightly first.


They are from Simon I suspect - look on his new products pages.

As for Derek's original problem - I doubt the clutch has suddenly lost all it's grip, and I wouldn't let any garage start changing a clutch until it has been checked properly.  Do they have it in gear?  The forward and backward movement of the gear lever in the car rotates the large lever on the gearbox to select a gear; but the lever is locked to the shaft by a bolt that locks into the shaft.  I have known these to come loose so the gear lever movement in the car, and the lever on the gearbox does not rotate the shaft properly and it does not actually go into gear.

If the problem is not in the gearbox, maybe the clutch release bearing has stuck on the bush and is holding the plate from pressing on the friction plate...  There could be other faults too, so it needs to be checked properly first.

Roy

To get it loose, do as Roy told you and use some penetrating oil.
Part number for the bras bushes at Simon and Car-joy is 09036
You need 2 of it.
They are €7 a piece ex taxes.

Great.. thanks.. I'll give it a go tomorrow.... I thought it just needed a bit more force.. but wanted to make sure... would hate to damage that gearbox casting :)

Removed the pivot bracket today without incident.... the plastic bushes were all but stuck solid...
Now... next job... slave cylinder..... it has almost merged with the hosing, and i fear that I will either have to use heat to remove it, or worse still.. drill it out..... it is completely stuck. :(

This is an usual problem - the slave cylinder is rusted in the gearbox tube. Sometimes helps to demount the arming metal O-ring (don't know the right English world) and press the clutch pedal. If it don't help, than You can block the clutch arm (which is between slave cylinder and clutch bearing) and try to press the clutch pedal (carefully). If this wont help, than You can try to turn it - from rear side, there is a lug which You can catch by key-tool No. 27 (think) and You can try to move it. If all this tips wont be helping, than You have a problem ;)

Thanks for the tips Michal..
The gearbox in question is the one I got off Waldos spare parts car (may it rest in pieces), and it's currently sitting in my basement room in a million parts...
So.. I don't think that pressing the clutch pedal will do me much good... but hey! I'm willing to try anything at this point!. ;)

If I recall correctly the car had been stored in a barn for some 19 odd years before Waldo bought it (waldo? ) And to me it looks like there is no way, but the old fashioned way (fire)......should the worst happen... A guy from my class is a certified aluminium welder.. ;)

If you haven't already done so, spray both ends of the mounting tube with plenty of WD40 penetrating oil (or equivalent). Let it sit for a while before trying to the suggested ways to remove the slave cylinder.

He he... the thing has been "marinaded" in the stuff since x-mas :)

Did you remember to add Garlic to the marinade?  :D

LOL!  Nice one Krede.


If the circlip has already been removed and it has been soaking in penetrating fluid for months, then I would say that you should apply a small amount of heat to the casing and then use a really big spanner across the flats of the slave cylinder housing (near where the pipe entry is located) to attempt to rotate the slave cylinder back and forth.  Normally that releases it and then you can work it out of the clutch housing casing.  I have not broken one yet, and I thought some were totally seized in. (keeping my fingers crossed that the next one isn't jinxed now!)

Roy

Unfortunately it looks like a new clutch is needed.

I also need to replace the clutch fork. Does anyone have a Talbot part number for the clutch fork? 

Thanks
Derek

2117.45 for a 2.2 according to my parts list.

Like Peter said 2117.45 or it was also originally 56874606

Roy