MatraSport Forum
Each model => Murena => Topic started by: klumzer on September 25, 2011, 09:39:26 pm
-
I have not found any method on the forum how to remove the rear fender. It was said that it is very difficult and almost impossible but I want to have a good corrosion protection on my car so it was inevitable for me.
Today I managed to remove the rear fenders. It is really complicated but not impossible. Here are my experience:
First you have to remove the rear windows otherwise you have to cut the artificial leather inside. Next drill the rivets. Remove the cover of the B pillar. You also have to remove the rear bumper and the black plastic covers behind the rear windows to have access to some rivets. It is not so complicated. Then you have to start to undo the bonding connection between the chassis and the fender.
There are two different adhesive under the fender. The upper line is glued with a hard and very tough material which is very difficult to cut. (see photos, marked with red).
The other parts are glued with a soft material. It is easy to cut and not so sticky after 30 years. (marked vith light blue) If you managed to separate the upper line from the chassis you do not have to deal with the soft adhesive it will release the fender.
I used a cutter, an obsolete knife, a putty-knife, a hammer and some screwdriver to loosen the upper line. If you want to avoid cracks on the fiber-glass first you have to cut the edge with a cutter from the inner side on the full length. You have to separate the edge of the fender from the chassis. Then you can put the knife between the fender and the chassis and punch it with a hammer. You can use anything what is thin, sharp and a bit flexible. Do not hammer the cutter because it will break. You have to do it gradually, step by step to make the groove deeper and deeper. You have to be careful and patient. You can check if the fender is released with a putty-knife. It is flexible and can follow the bend of the fender. On the left side I was lucky and the adhesive released the chassis. On the right side some fiber glass peeled from the fender but it was not serious.
Above the wheel there is a metal plate riveted to the chassis. It is rotted but the chassis is ok. Before removing the fender I thought it is the part of the chassis and I was worried about it.
Removal took about 2-3 hours each side (without window and rivets).
-
More photos...
-
One more thing.
The foil on the side of the boot was destroyed because the top of it sticked to the fender.
-
Exellent description and photos :D It will make it easier for anyone who have to remove the fenders.
Good job. ;D
-
Good job :-)
But not a weekend job :-(
Hans
-
Thanks for your clear description and the pictures.
-
excellent information:- am in the process of doing the same:- just an addition, on mine it has three rivets at the bottom of the window which were obscured by mastic!.
-
Great work. Hans and I once tried to do that procedure on a spare parts car, but had to give up :). I have recently wondered if perhaps a multi cutter with a scraper tool attached might be the way to go ?
-
I have recently removed mine and I basically followed Klumzer's instructions. The difficulty was entirely with the upper adhesive which is very hard. I first used a Dremel cutter to start a groove between the fibreglass and the chassis and then gently hammered a thin and flexible paint scraper into the groove. With a lot of patience I was able to separate the top section and the remainder of the soft adhesive was no trouble. I did damage the panel slightly in a couple of places but a fibreglass expert repaired the damage cheaply.
Now for the rust repairs!
-
Just finished removing mine. The upper part did not cause too much trouble however the piece near the roof / top of the door and from the bottom of the window through to the boot were difficult! I stole a couple of my sons guitar strings and it went through them like butter!
-
HELP:-
The portion of metal is missing from the bottom of the window, and from the chassis to the "fender" rear wing! has anyone got the dimensions of these so I can fabricate some?????
-
I looked in the manual about it but couln't find any info about sizes.
I didn't save the part from my breaker to measure it myself but didn't save the part because it was badly rusted.
Sorry, can't help you.
(http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2915.0;attach=5865;image)
Herman
-
Thanks for the response Oetker. I think looking at yours I can make a replacement for the one below the window the other I think may be trial and error.
-
I made that part from a roofplate.
It can stand more then 200 degree Celsius.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pYYiT8nAscM/UJQPcp6ZeOI/AAAAAAAACLY/jkzX5fBsmx4/s800/P1050614%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZbvMNMmu3iU/UJQUPzme63I/AAAAAAAACLo/2U8pFN1scRg/s800/P1050617%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zog4ZRnLAFs/UK0irwxzVeI/AAAAAAAACS8/NmL9cjc5tF8/s800/P1050679%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SOYbE5jKO8U/UK0inpHt0iI/AAAAAAAACSs/xNz6pFtdV-k/s800/P1050681%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tvOJQWe7h-s/UK0ipvY28EI/AAAAAAAACS0/Fh1O_wVGlfE/s800/P1050680%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
Mounted it with Pattex black poly kit in 2012
It's stil OK in my daily driver.
Herman
-
Thanks for the response Oetker. I think looking at yours I can make a replacement for the one below the window the other I think may be trial and error.
The piece of metal under the window seems to be added as an afterthought by Matra. It is not galvanised, at least not on mine. As a result there is very little left, but rust.
I think they added it because of road debris sticking up between the fibreglass and the chassis. I have plans to make a plastic inner fender to catch the debris. It should be possible and a better solution than making another rust prone piece of metal.
Oetker's pictures gives you a good idea of how to fix it.
-
That looks neat! Think the way to go is wait till I refit the fender make a paper template and then copy your idea, but can replace the plate at the window beforehand. By the way how do you stick photos on here?
-
That looks neat! Think the way to go is wait till I refit the fender make a paper template and then copy your idea, but can replace the plate at the window beforehand. By the way how do you stick photos on here?
Below the message window is a link "Additional options". Click that and one of the options is to attach a file, i.e. a photo.
Do not use huge photos from camera. They will extend beyond the screen and make the post unreadable. Downsize it to about a Megabyte.
-
Best is to risize back to 800x600 with for xample imageresizer (free window tool to find at Microsoft.)
Then put it up to a photosite like Picasa, Flickr, or Photobucket.
Then copy the link in posting here like this.
img linkadres /img
then it looks like this
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fx_j8DDD33k/Vd2mYoN2URI/AAAAAAAAFKg/S2quqlOLpB0/s800-Ic42/tboy%252520%252528Custom%252529.jpg)
img and \img hast to be in this [***] and [\***] were the 3 stars are the word img.
Difficult discription but if I show correct it disappear because forum think I post a picture.
Herman
-
;D
-
;)
Herman.................... you are a star!!!!!!!!
-
;D
Nice. :D
Do I see stainless cooling pipes in the bottom photo?
If they aren't, then consider replacing them with stainless now you have everything apart anyway. My standard pipes sprang a leak and ultimately caused the head to crack >:(
Now all is stainless.
-
They are indeed Jon........... taken from Dona. Work done so far is: new...... top and bottom ball joints / steering gaitors / shocks / cooling pipes / interior dash removed and replaced with a better one / complete new outer floor fitted made from galvernised steel / partial inner floor / windscreen removed scuttle cleaned and treated and screen replaced / new galvernised valence fitted / new outriggers for the wings made and fitted / new adjusters for the lights / whole underside treated / brakes refurbed / new pads / brake pipes replaced............. loads of other stuff I have forgotten. Now moved onto the back, Strip down, treat, replace all roll bar rubbers refurb calipers , new drive shaft boots and anything else I can find that isn't up to standard. Also got to cut out and replace the outside swing arm mount (going rusty)
-
Lots of work done alrady.
Maybe fill the trailingarms with oil to.
They rust from the inside because of the damped conditions there. (heat/cold)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hoFPGXvAbrk/Vd4JROAt2QI/AAAAAAAAFK0/ki478RH2f8Y/s800-Ic42/P1010282%252520%252528Custom%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hdrTb_892gg/Vd4JRFMw7eI/AAAAAAAAFK4/vAUcWMcoT6U/s800-Ic42/P1010290%252520%252528Custom%252529.JPG)
Tool to resize
https://imageresizer.codeplex.com/
Resize to 800x600 and that fits fine on the forum.
Herman
-
ha ha. That is the beauty of buying one now!!!! I think I have read just about every post and am slowly stealing everyones ideas. Had already decided to do this but was thinking of using diesel instead of oil! what do you think? Work is slowing because of the rain and cold. (typical summer!)
