MatraSport Forum

Each model => Murena => Topic started by: Murena IRL on June 20, 2009, 12:53:00 am



Title: Alternative Parts
Post by: Murena IRL on June 20, 2009, 12:53:00 am
Hi All,

As some parts become more difficult/expensive to obtain, I have noticed some great suggestions on the board here that have helped and saved me £££.......i.e Ford Ka wiper Arms, picked up a pair with blades for £5 off ebay a couple of weeks ago.  

Also recent topic re Wiring - Mk1 Range Rover rubber cable protectors, do the job!......  from that link posted re electric window switches. I know not original parts but I think we all agree  the objective is to keep as many Matra's on the road as possible. I would rather save the money on these items and have the ££ available for parts when I need to use a Matra Specialist.

Is there anyway we can keep track of these alternative parts, where they are correctly documented with photos etc?

The MEC has an alternative parts list and part numbers but these are mostly for service items.

http://www.matraclub.org.uk/PartNumbers.html

Cheers
Derek

  



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Anders Dinsen on June 20, 2009, 10:47:23 am
Is there anyway we can keep track of these alternative parts, where they are correctly documented with photos etc?

I have made this thread sticky - this means that it will always remain on the top of the list of topics. Everyone can then add pointers here to the alternative parts or the posts here where they are discussed, and they will be relatively easy to find here. I think that's the best solution. Glad you brought it up, Derek!

/Anders


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on June 20, 2009, 05:54:27 pm
Alternative dynamo 2.2

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1080.0.html


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Murena IRL on June 20, 2009, 09:52:04 pm
Wiper Blades

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1423.0.html

http://www.matramania.be/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1499

The rubber cable ducts that go from the A post to the doors & window Switches.

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,817.15.html


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Murena IRL on June 24, 2009, 12:36:27 am
Electric Window regulators

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1491.0.html


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on June 25, 2009, 09:57:32 am
WINDOW SWITCHES.
Verified a exact fit and working in the Murena. without modification.
This is the E-bay seller in hongkong that has them in great amounts, but has also auctions for 4 pieces for good price.
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/PARTSPIPE__W0QQ_armrsZ1


(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K6raE9ymqD0/T2i95L2FasI/AAAAAAAAA6k/YPXkQy_97UA/s800/bedrading%2520042.jpg)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Titus on June 25, 2009, 07:29:19 pm
I have these illuminated window switches in my car. I like them and they are useful in the dark. However, I think they are of a poor quality. The drivers window switch has failed twice. First one after 6 months, second three months later.

But they are so cheap that I'll stick with them. They come as a set of four so the first failure was replaced from the original set and now I have three spares left from the second set.

I didn't think to check the switch before taking the door apart the first time. The light was still functioning. Note to self: CHECK SWITCH FIRST :)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: davidewanprice on July 05, 2009, 08:47:57 pm
Replacement heater switch, less than £7 inc VAT and direct replacement for the original.

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/3-speed-heater-fan-switch--swfan-1578-p.asp

I bought a few things from these guys, very quick service..


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on July 22, 2009, 10:51:40 am
Does anyone know of an alternate source for the rubber bushings in the engine mounts?

When I had mine removed they were ok, but looked a bit "tired" and sagging. I looked at Simons for replacements, but I think 117€ is a bit steep for the right one only. :(


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on July 22, 2009, 11:23:24 am
In my quest for alternative rubber, I have been busy with this one.
(http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/8239/p1000837medium.jpg)
I couldn't find a possebillity to make it fit, besided that it is not hard enough.
I replaced it for a aftermarket one from Carjoy/Simon.
It is a bit harder then the original, but be carefull with what you put there.
The rubber is very specific, and to much play or wrong rubber can kill the mounting or leave you with unwanted vibrations, and then you have a expencive problem.
Also see this topic.
http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1417.0.html
I have a defect spare to experiment with alternative rubber.
Stil couldn't find anything that has good specs.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on July 23, 2009, 09:15:20 am
In my quest for alternative rubber, I have been busy with this one. <picture>
I couldn't find a possebillity to make it fit, besided that it is not hard enough.
I replaced it for a aftermarket one from Carjoy/Simon.
It is a bit harder then the original, but be carefull with what you put there.
The rubber is very specific, and to much play or wrong rubber can kill the mounting or leave you with unwanted vibrations, and then you have a expencive problem.
Also see this topic.
http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1417.0.html
I have a defect spare to experiment with alternative rubber.
Stil couldn't find anything that has good specs.

I remember the topic as I had commented there myself. I read it again and saw that Anders had a new style mount, where the holes do not go through all the way, but are offset 90 degrees.

Anders. Did you get that mount from Simons? and did you pay 117€ for it?

Also I have tried to measure the exact diameter of the hole in the mount, but with the bushing in place I could not be sure I got it right. Has any of you got the exact measurements written down?


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on July 23, 2009, 09:40:50 am
This wil say it all

Bolt M10
Hope you have more luck finding one.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_XG5osPPQBM/T3f9nTnAMEI/AAAAAAAADxs/jpSp_TnblJk/s800/SANY0608.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ceLB_sh4Y5s/T3f9mnMNKrI/AAAAAAAADxk/oh17wlXQ1_Y/s800/SANY0600.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4i-5Xhc6qLI/T3f9mv5MT_I/AAAAAAAADxg/FRyF48hQDXU/s800/SANY0606.JPG)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on August 17, 2009, 05:38:42 pm
I asked Koni for the partnumbers of their shocks for the Murena 2.2 and they are:

Front:   80-2480
Rear:    82-2184

They stock them in the Netherlands.

Update! I just Googled the numbers, and they showed up on Roy's site, here:
http://www.matraclub.org.uk/PartNumbers.html

With a bit more experience I would have known to look at Roy's excellent site first for the answer.  ;D ;D ;D



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on August 17, 2009, 05:44:05 pm
I asked Koni for the partnumbers of their shocks for the Murena 2.2 and they are:

Front:   80-2480
Rear:    82-2184

They stock them in the Netherlands.

Update! I just Googled the numbers, and they showed up on Roy's site, here:
http://www.matraclub.org.uk/PartNumbers.html

With a bit more experience I would have known to look at Roy's excellent site first for the answer.  ;D ;D ;D

Anyone know the cheapest place to buy them??




Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on August 17, 2009, 05:47:43 pm
Yes, but they are expencive.
For the rear I did not find alternative yet, but I am very pleased with the Monroe Simca 1100 shocks on the front.
If I can't find replacements for the rear, I wil look for a place that can revive them.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on August 18, 2009, 01:14:23 pm
--
 I wil look for a place that can revive them.
I think I remember that Anders had his Koni shocks reworked. I don't recall where, but it was cheaper than new.

I don't think mine are Koni, so Iam checking for price for new ones.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Anders Dinsen on August 18, 2009, 01:58:09 pm
I think I remember that Anders had his Koni shocks reworked. I don't recall where, but it was cheaper than new.

Indeed I did. As described in this thread: http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1414.0.html

/Anders


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on August 19, 2009, 10:14:29 pm
I think I remember that Anders had his Koni shocks reworked. I don't recall where, but it was cheaper than new.
Indeed I did. As described in this thread: http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1414.0.html

/Anders
I thought you forgot the link  ;) It does not show up on my PC unless I place my mouse on top of it.  ;D


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on October 26, 2009, 08:59:15 am
REAR BREAK DISKS ALTERNATIVE
-------------------------------------

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1591.0.html


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on March 02, 2010, 08:57:21 am
I need a new fanbelt on my 2.2 and saw this on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BELT-10x910-AUDI-100-80-A6-VOLVO-240-740-2-3-BX-MURENA_W0QQitemZ220556189083QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item335a2c5d9b

That belt is 11.2 mm wide by 866 mm long and that does not agree with the size on Roy's alternative parts page: http://www.matraclub.org.uk/PartNumbers.html.

Roy say 9.5 mm X 913 mm. I tend to believe Roy, but want to make sure. Who has measured their fanbelt? ???


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on March 02, 2010, 10:16:36 am
Something strange in the auction.
The headpicture has the right belt, and in the description is a picture with other sizes.
The most common belt used is from Gates.
Stil available in the shops.
(http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/6636/riem1.jpg)

10x913 wich is about right.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on March 02, 2010, 07:49:21 pm
Something strange in the auction.
The headpicture has the right belt, and in the description is a picture with other sizes.
The most common belt used is from Gates.
Stil available in the shops.
10x913 wich is about right.
I found he auction strange too. 10X913 is easy to find, so thanks. I had a feeling that Roy was right. :)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: davidewanprice on March 04, 2010, 07:38:34 pm
I need some lockable wheel nuts, is it a special thread for the Murena or a standard Citroen item?


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on March 04, 2010, 08:22:40 pm
10X913 is easy to find, ..
Picked up the belt at the Danish auto store, Krogslund, for 60 DKr. incl. VAT. cheap, but good quality.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: lewisman on March 05, 2010, 01:04:14 am
I need some lockable wheel nuts, is it a special thread for the Murena or a standard Citroen item?

Standard 12mm x 1.5mm thread as used by Vauxhall etc.  Not sure of the length - take out one of your wheel bolts and measure it!


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: davidewanprice on March 05, 2010, 06:40:35 pm
I ask because I'm in the process of getting my original wheels refurbed, I had some more modern Momos on but am going back the originals. I currently have locking nuts but they look rusty and if I'm spending this money on getting the alloys looking nice and new, I might as well replace these too! On the original Murena bolts you had plastic covers to hide the bolts, half the ones with my wheels are missing or damaged, anyone got spares that they would sell or swap?


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on March 05, 2010, 08:36:57 pm
Do a search in Ebay for "wheel nut cover" and you will find a bunch.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: davidewanprice on March 05, 2010, 11:05:50 pm
And there was me thinking I might find them hard to find! Think I'll be getting a set at som point..


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on April 26, 2010, 01:16:52 pm
Just came across this site where they had an 80 AH alternator for the Murena. (I cross referenced a Lucas LRA592 80AH alternator)

http://www.alanko.de/Alternator/Generator/Alternator-generator::447.html

"Only" 100.99€, but since a 80 AH cost 250£ at MatraMagic, it must be a good price. ;)

It could come in handy when I start my Peltier air condition projekt. It will require lots of Amps.  ;D

UPDATE! I talked to the company and unfortunately, the alternator they point to is only 55 AH according to the guy on their hotline.  >:(
He will write me when he finds out what number to use instead.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: brinkie on June 29, 2010, 11:09:29 pm
Not that I expect you have to replace this part very often, but the sun visors in the Murena turn out to be manufactured by Volkswagen/Audi!

(http://www.matramurena.net/pics/Murena_VAG_sunvisor.jpg)

The type number stamped on it is:
Left sun visor 431 857 551 C
Right sun visor (with mirror) has 2 numbers: 431 857 552 / 432 857 552

Maybe someone could check at a VAG dealership what Volkswagen or Audi are also using these sun visors. Once again, I don't expect them to fail, but I'm very curious what car they came from.

(edit: I have replaced the picture with a better one, this is a clearer view on the back of the part which is fixed into the ceiling with two screws)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: davidewanprice on June 30, 2010, 12:28:54 am
What colour are these? Mine should be chocolate brown but the sun destroyed the plastic so I found some replacement but they are a lighter coffee colour...


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: brinkie on June 30, 2010, 10:46:32 am
What colour are these? Mine should be chocolate brown but the sun destroyed the plastic so I found some replacement but they are a lighter coffee colour...
These were once silver/grey, until age, sunlight and cigarette smoke from the previous owner (who smoked like a chimney) turned them into grey-brownish colour.
I forgot to take note of codes on the black sun visors I fitted yesterday to replace these. If someone *really* needs to know the VAG code on those, I will take them out and write it down, but I think the codes I've given from the silver one should give enough information. If you have access to the VAG information system that is, but maybe your friendly local Volkswagen workshop will help you out.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: brinkie on July 01, 2010, 11:13:49 am
Maybe someone could check at a VAG dealership what Volkswagen or Audi are also using these sun visors. Once again, I don't expect them to fail, but I'm very curious what car they came from.

Found it! It's a Typ 43, which means Audi 100/200 C2 from 1976-1982. Here's a picture I've found with sun visor:

(http://imcdb.org/images/146/386.jpg)

Not that this will help us much, since these Audi's are even older than the Murena and were prone to rust. But maybe an Audi dealer has some old stock, or an Audi parts specialist. The sun visors are available new anyway from Simon.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on August 20, 2010, 12:13:48 pm
For those of you who may be looking for a new water pump for your 2.2, I have spottet this on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-505-2-2-82-88-WATER-PUMP-OE-QUALITY-/120604784845?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM

It is only £40.27 and it specifically lists the Murena 2.2 and the N9T engine as compatible. The Quinton Hazel QCP1011 part costs appx 75€ in comparison.

They also have them for the 1.6, though they have always been available as far as I know.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on August 20, 2010, 02:01:40 pm
The Murena 2.2 waterpump is specialy made for the car.
No 505 or tagora pump wil fit
It's to long.
The Murna pump is expencive, but I found a way to fix it if it is defective.

Te water pump from the 1.6 or Peu 205 and others have the same seals and bearing and it is possible to use the parts to fix the pump.
I bought on E-bay for little money this pump.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1OH4QbJmv0Q/T2o1J-y0nEI/AAAAAAAABhc/wbl__iBQyBU/s800/P1020018.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mwCxrTy8FhQ/T2o1K_anEaI/AAAAAAAABhg/MXOidoZToxU/s800/P1020017.JPG)
It is a WP977, same as QCP977 from Quinton Hazel and easy to find.

I separated the seal an axle and demounted the impeller.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o2fcVdQi5ns/T2o1LpCyIxI/AAAAAAAABho/revkYKcdmHQ/s800/P1020019.JPG/img][img]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3AC4dRhfKt0/T2o1MHc9IDI/AAAAAAAABh4/mlzkEEpz_Zk/s800/P1020020.JPG)

As you can see on the picture it is only a bit longer, but that is no problem.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Vu1TdP066s4/T2o1Mm2_gLI/AAAAAAAABh0/TXgJ1EwpkWI/s800/P1020021.JPG)

I didn't cut anything of the axle and fitted it in the old 2.2 pump with some locktite.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bVfyBPhi6Us/T2o1YO9mU_I/AAAAAAAABi8/JG73BGYZDZw/s800/P1020056.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pnyhsycN9Qc/T2o1X6vBPaI/AAAAAAAABi0/LM1GGCJeFhY/s800/P1020055.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yuIy0iTeD-E/T2o1Y-AAksI/AAAAAAAABjE/MdEHVztAH4U/s800/P1020057.JPG)

Then I fitted the impeller.
On that side you don't need to cut of anything.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ji6r1roVt30/T2o1hy0BmHI/AAAAAAAABjk/WCdHjauHppc/s800/P1020059.JPG)

Fitted the pulley.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7G90e1c2G2A/T2o1ZcH6DxI/AAAAAAAABjI/p4IYBqg5W6g/s800/P1020058.JPG)

Then you can cut the axle right above the pulley, and the pump is ready to fit.
Hope the pics made it clear.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Anders Dinsen on August 20, 2010, 03:37:53 pm
The Murna pump is expencive, but I found a way to fix it if it is defective.

Brilliant!!!! The photos are excellent and very instructive! :) :)

/Anders


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on August 20, 2010, 08:06:29 pm
Just to let see the difference between a waterpump for Tagora and Murena.
The Tagora pump (QCP1011) is much higher.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-C7bccdS2ENY/T2ozpqL5fqI/AAAAAAAABbk/_rHgxVOaMck/s800/P1010931.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uAsWOuAifEc/T2o0eX3ZaqI/AAAAAAAABeI/O2ODMZ-prI8/s800/P1010935.JPG)

Tip....If you planning to do this, use a press to get things out and a good pulley puller.
Heat the allu from the pump a little to make it a bit more easy and a precaution to not damage the bearing.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on August 27, 2010, 12:12:01 pm
For those of you who may be looking for a new water pump for your 2.2, I have spottet this on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-505-2-2-82-88-WATER-PUMP-OE-QUALITY-/120604784845?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM

It is only £40.27 and it specifically lists the Murena 2.2 and the N9T engine as compatible. The Quinton Hazel QCP1011 part costs appx 75€ in comparison.

They also have them for the 1.6, though they have always been available as far as I know.

Well! I ordered a pump from them on ebay and they have just refunded the money in full and asked me to cancel the order. "Out of stock" they say, but they still show "more than 10 available" on their auction.

I will try Oetker's solution on a pump I found among the spares, after I had ordered the other one. I guess it was lucky they couldn't deliver and saved the money.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on September 01, 2010, 08:39:02 am
A replacement for the heater blower in the Murena is possible with the blower from a 1995+ Nissan Primera. It requires some modifications, so see my post, with photos, in the thread:
"Watch out for that blower switch, it could fry your car."


Title: Module and ignition coil.
Post by: Oetker on October 14, 2010, 12:08:47 pm
The Murena distributor is on the car now for a while.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VCIjZytupug/T3LNhZsLsXI/AAAAAAAADDc/ejjnws3F-Bg/s800/P1020686.JPG)
The govenor springs are shortened about 0.5 mm.
Finaly the low speed knock is gone.
A problem I was looking for some time (2 years in fact, and yes, I am deadslow).
I also changed module and ignition coil for a alternative, and made it more easy to work on.

This is for the 2.2 and does not fit the 1.6. (NB different module induction vs Hall).
The coil on the 2.2 and S has a primary resistance of 0.85 ohm.
After looking at some coils I found the GCL143 from Lucas/Uniparts the same.
This Lucas coil is in fact a Ducellier.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-af1xwpbji80/T3LNmW0nHZI/AAAAAAAADEU/7tygBpDnbMI/s800/P1020697.JPG)

For the module you can use a Bosch module with the number 0227 100 123 also fitted on the 505 turbo.
It has the same connections, so the plug fits right away.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5oMqb0jD6MQ/T3LNnJO9eGI/AAAAAAAADEg/eZr5YUmiXN4/s800/P1020699.JPG)
It has a extra -bobine connection for a rpm counter, not used by me, but if you need to test RPM in the engine bay it coult be useful.

I brought them together on the same plate, but changed the place it was mounted.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jgToKBQv4mg/T3LNocLW1MI/AAAAAAAADE8/EEd4eCzXUNs/s800/P1020707.JPG)

At the same time I renewed the wiring of the engine and got rid of the testconnector (who needs it anyway).
All wiring is now far away from any heatsources.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6U4iNcqa-Oo/T3LNoaybHCI/AAAAAAAADE4/ydPBKxnh1U8/s800/P1020712.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Bc2qtGx2QRw/T3LNqe_WVpI/AAAAAAAADFE/KtO7a7-MxgQ/s800/P1020715.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rGT718BIaSw/T3LNrujpAjI/AAAAAAAADFc/pJEWzuk6KOM/s800/P1020718.JPG)
I changed the connector to 8 pin, so the wire for the reverselights has a place to.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kp1YWLjqSbE/T3LNq9e5aII/AAAAAAAADFI/xRGDt3tClKA/s800/P1020716.JPG)

I am driving around with this modification for some weeks now, and it works perfect.

Coil for sale here for pocketchange.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MINI-GCL143-GENUINE-ROVER-IGNITION-COIL-NEW-/180399798380?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a00aa786c
Sold out, but Lucas version here.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GCL143-DLB198-LUCAS-MINI-IGNITION-COIL-ELECTRONIC-HIGH-ENERGY-/120782026309?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1f2b7645


Module for sale here around €15.- incl shipment.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120434298034&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT




Title: Re: Module and ignition coil.
Post by: michaltalbot on March 22, 2011, 09:57:28 pm
The Murena distributor is on the car now for a while.
(http://a.imageshack.us/img689/682/p1020686medium.jpg)
The govenor springs are shortened about 0.5 mm.
Finaly the low speed knock is gone.

Hello, what do You mean the govenor springs? I couldn't find it in vocabulary and don't know what does it mean, thank You ;)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on March 22, 2011, 10:18:55 pm


I made a spelling mistake, it is governor and not govenor.
Better word for it is centrifugal springs.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on March 23, 2011, 08:37:13 am
Nice work, Oetker.  ;D
Replacing old wires is on my "to-do" list and your work inspires to make it happen soon.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: davidewanprice on March 26, 2011, 10:28:27 am
Poking at the pictures of the water pump, surely the only parts the deteriate are the bearing and the mechanical seal, I think I can help with this as this is my business! And for that matter most of our customers sell bearings so if I can have all rhe measurements you wouldn't need to go to the expence of buying a full new pump for a 505 and then having to strip it and rebuild on the murena shaft?


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on March 26, 2011, 10:40:56 am
In my search for this I found out where the seals are made and had numbers and sizes of them.
It is pretty universal, but the firms I mailed didn't want to help a simple soul like me.
At the moment I mailed under a alias and needed 10.000 pieces they were very interested. :-\
I have little time today because a fellow member comes for a repair.
This evening I will sort out my administration to find out where I left the info.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on March 26, 2011, 10:35:32 pm
OK, here we go.

First of all there are 2 different kind of seals in the Murena 2.2 pump.
You can see them in this picture.
(http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/1752/p1010955medium.jpg)
There are pumps with ceramic seal and pumps with rubber seal.
It depends on the impeller.
The ceramic seal works in combination with a iron impeller.
The rubber seal works with a allu impeller.
You can use the rubber seal in combination with the iron impeller, but not vice versa so the rubber seal is the way to go.

The seal that can be used  comes from this firm.

http://www.meccanotecnicaumbra.com/

In there catalog this seal has type-number UGH-2.

(http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/3251/wpugh2.jpg) (http://img651.imageshack.us/i/wpugh2.jpg/)

The bearing I did not find a replacement, but I made pictures when i was busy with the job.
(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/9488/p1010952medium.jpg)
(http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3945/p1020009medium.jpg)
(http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3979/p1020008medium.jpg)
(http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3236/p1020007medium.jpg)

Measurement that made me believe it is UGH 2
(http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/632/p1020011medium.jpg)
(http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/3623/p1020010medium.jpg)
(http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/103/p1020012medium.jpg)

So far the info I can provide.

@ David.
Maybe you can do something with it.
I mailed several firms about this, but got no reply.
They are not very interested in some loosers that can use only a few objects of there production.





Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: JL on March 26, 2011, 10:51:05 pm
Hi Everyone

I got so fed up with my corroded crank, water pump and alternator pulleys that I decided to make a toothed belt drive kit. I have attached a few photographs.
I can now rev the engine without risk of the drive belt disintegrating or flying off the pulleys.

I have also replaced the throttle cable and my usual supplier of 1mm bowden cable was out of stock so I made a trip to the local cycle shop and found a rear brake cable for a tandem 3050mm long with Teflon coating, now fitted and very smooth.

Regards
John


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: davidewanprice on March 27, 2011, 12:00:16 am
The problem is you are going to a big manufacturer, these guys don't make ones or twos, this is one of our main competitors, I'm pretty sure this is something we make and supply as standard but I don't have the details at home to compare the sizes but the table and pictures will help.

Are you saying there two different types of seals used on murena water pumps or Are you saying it comes in two pieces as mecanicals seals as standard come in two pieces, a rotary seal that spins and the other is stationary. One presses against the other making a perfect seal. Your right one face is often ceramic, most likely the other is carbon. On the scheme of things a water pump seal is low demand so these items will be nice and cheap. Less than a new pump that's for sure.

I have a waterpump and will take it to work and have it checked over properly, I may not be able sell this to you directly but we sell to distributors all of the world so I can probably tell you what and where to buy

David


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on March 27, 2011, 07:11:49 am
@ David.

The ceramic seal runs against the iron impeller, but can not be used in combination with a light metal impeller wich is used in pumps from brand Dolz.
Therefore the way to go is with the UGH-2.
It fits all pumps used in Murena 1.6 and 2.2
The bearing in all pumps is the same.

I also have somewhere type numbers and brands of pumps that are used but can't acces the info at the moment.
will do that later.

@ JL.
Great job, and it looks very good.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on March 28, 2011, 07:44:16 am
The Manufacturers I found and made the right pumps.

Dolz typenumber T-158
Optimal AQ-1745

There are more, but this are 2 fabrics that verified made the right pump and not the one for Tagora/505.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: roy4matra on March 28, 2011, 02:07:39 pm
OK, here we go.

First of all there are 2 different kind of seals in the Murena 2.2 pump.

There are pumps with ceramic seal and pumps with rubber seal.
It depends on the pulley.

I assume you mean 'impeller' not 'pulley'?


Quote
The ceramic pulley works in combination with a iron pulley.
The rubber seal works with a allu pulley.
You can use the rubber seal in combination with the iron pulley, but not vice versa so the rubber seal is the way to go.

Whilst I can understand your logic here, the ceramic type is a better seal, particularly with intermittently used classic cars.  The problem is that the rubber sticks to the metal when not used for a long period and then a tiny fraction rips off when the engine is used again.  This is mostly why the water pumps fail as quickly as they do.  If the car is used daily, they generally don't fail in years.  My water pump lasted at least twelve years as I was using the car regularly.  If the car is going to have intermittent use then the seal should be ceramic.


Quote
They are not very interested in some loosers that can use only a few objects of there production.


Many years ago, I too tried to buy a batch of water pump kits so that we could overhaul them, but unless I was prepared to order something like 5,000 they weren't interested...

Roy


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on March 28, 2011, 04:47:58 pm
Quote Roy.
--------------
I assume you mean 'impeller' not 'pulley'?
==============================

Indeed, I mean Impeller.
I will correct my post.

Quote Roy.
========
the ceramic type is a better seal.
=========================

Agreed on that one.
They only loose a drop now and then for lubrication on the ceramic seal.
It would be a better option, but not all Murena's have the iron impeller, and with tha allu one the ceramic seal can't work.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: davidewanprice on March 28, 2011, 06:43:44 pm
Unfortunately this seal is a little special and not part of our range, the seal type is called a unitised seal, I may however be able to source some through my customers, we shall see.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on March 28, 2011, 07:03:46 pm
Ofcourse I measured the ceramic seal to.
Could it be a idea to source them both?
(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/6715/p1020024medium.jpg)
(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/3534/p1020025medium.jpg)

The hole is 16 mm
And what about the bearing?


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: klumzer on June 11, 2011, 01:04:04 pm
I asked Koni for the partnumbers of their shocks for the Murena 2.2 and they are:

Front:   80-2480
Rear:    82-2184

They stock them in the Netherlands.

Update! I just Googled the numbers, and they showed up on Roy's site, here:
http://www.matraclub.org.uk/PartNumbers.html

With a bit more experience I would have known to look at Roy's excellent site first for the answer.  ;D ;D ;D




I asked the local distributor yesterday and he told me that Koni stopped producing the mentioned products....  :(



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: klumzer on June 16, 2011, 06:05:28 pm
I found a topic about brake master cylinder and Oetker recommended an alternative Talbot cylinder.

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,2023.0.html

It is the master cylinder of Talbot Horizon. But be careful because that car use another totally different one depending on the year of production.

I bought one. Here are the details:
CIFAM
CF 202-084
17473700 (the same number what you can see on Oetker's photo)

It was only 22 Euros approx...

I hope it will fit.  :)



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on June 24, 2011, 12:10:07 am
According to my car partsbible this are the cars that have the same as Murena.
(http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/2448/pmfu.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/pmfu.jpg/)
It is always clever to verify what you buy.
Ther is plenty of faulty information concerning documentation of the Murena.




Title: Flasher Blinker.
Post by: Oetker on July 03, 2011, 06:57:56 pm
Confirmed working Lucas SFB100 from Mini/Triumph etc. for Murena.
Easy to find for little money.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-02_1rhgyoqY/VA7SHqc8TUI/AAAAAAAAE6Y/Wpfu8mRf1Ik/s300/sfb100.JPG)

They are a little slower in blinking then original, and connector does not fit perfectly, but they do fine.

See movie for the speed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6pV6IL5nAY


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: klumzer on October 07, 2011, 05:00:00 pm
Could anyone verify or disaffirm that Renault 12 has the same front indicator as Murena?



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on October 07, 2011, 08:04:18 pm
Yes they are also Alpine and R12 but there are differences in some types.
See pics in this ad.

http://link.marktplaats.nl/485964640


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: klumzer on October 07, 2011, 08:49:26 pm
Thanks.
It is nice to know. R12 is very rare in Hungary, but there is a Rumanian version the Dacia 1300. Probably it has the same indicator, but the price is much cheaper. ~12Euro a complete indicator (plate+seal+lens). I will check it.
I only need new rubber seals, others are in very good condition. But always good to have some spares...

If I am not mistaken R12 has the same headlights as Bagheera. So Dacia can provide a cheap alternative for Bagheera owners. Although Dacia spares can be rare in western countries...


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: klumzer on October 13, 2011, 05:50:11 pm
Yes, the front indicator of Dacia 1300 can be used on Murena. It has some differences, but looks the same. The housing is made of plastic so no corrosion and the rear seals are much better than the original ones, but the electric connectors need some modification. The diaphragm between the two bulbs is integrated to the plastic housing but you can use the original lenses if you want. Very cheap, lens 1.7 Euro, complete 7.4 Euro (each), but not easy to find.

In this case "original" means: it was installed on my car when I bought it. :)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: klumzer on January 04, 2012, 11:12:21 pm
Just to let see the difference between a waterpump for Tagora and Murena.
The Tagora pump (QCP1011) is much higher.


Can I use the parts (shaft and pulley) of the Tagora pump for repair on similar way as you did with the 1.6 pump?

A smartass welded my pulley to the shaft... >:(  So probably I need a new pulley which would be available with a new Tagora pump.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: uberprutser on January 05, 2012, 12:19:38 am
Here's a picture of a Tagora 2.2 GLS pulley. I don't think you can use it on the Murena, at least not without some serious modifications. And new water pumps almost never come with new pulleys.

(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n544/wobbe98/div/DSCN0553.jpg)

This summer I modified a Tagora pump. The Famous QCP1011. These are the steps I did. And I think they will probably also work for the 505 turbo and other pump brands.

1. Remove the impeller.
2. Press out the shaft and bearing from the impeller side. For the QCP1011 pump it's no problem to press on the shaft, it won't damage the bearing. Don't try to press it out from the other side you will damage the seal cartridge. A little heat may help but is probably not needed. If you are lucky like me, the seal cartridge will stay in place and you won't have to use any kind of sealer to remount it.
3. Shorten the impeller end of the shaft by about 1 cm. Please make your own measurements using the old pump for reference. I am writing this from memory.
4. Grind down the pump housing by about 9mm. Again, take your own measurements. Using a mill is great but an angle grinder will also work just fine.
5. Grind the sensor mount point of the pump housing. If you forget to do this you will damage you pulley when pressing it on the shaft. It cost me my pulley :(
6. Press the shaft and bearing back into the pump housing.
7. Press on the impeller.
8. Press on the pulley making sure it is mounted at the same hight as on the old pump and cut down the shaft.

And you are done. Mine seems to be working just fine.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: klumzer on January 05, 2012, 05:51:18 pm
Thanks for the guide. It can be useful.

Catalogs show the 2.2 Tagora pump with pulley and it looks similar to the original one.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on January 05, 2014, 02:04:33 pm
Thanks for the guide. It can be useful.

Catalogs show the 2.2 Tagora pump with pulley and it looks similar to the original one.

The difference between Tagora pump (new one) and Murena pump is hight and it has a different impeller.
I don't know howmuch difference there is in waterflow because of this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MseEBbtvHC4/T2oznYGr_iI/AAAAAAAABbU/dBHEF2ear10/s800/P1010929.JPG)

Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: roy4matra on September 01, 2014, 07:32:46 pm
The difference between Tagora pump (new one) and Murena pump is hight and it has a different impeller.
I don't know howmuch difference there is in waterflow because of this.

Herman

First the difference in casting height is nowhere near 9 mm as someone else has written.  It is only 5mm.  This has been on my website for some years.  Standard Murena and early Tagora pumps had a casting depth of 78 mm and the later Tagora pumps are 83 mm.  I don't understand why they changed them, but I definitely used to fit the Tagora pumps to the Murena without any modification to the casting in the early days as they were the same.  You only had to cut off the mounting for the fan clutch carbon contact and cut down the shaft after pressing on the pulley.

The reason for the change may have to do with something I was unaware of until recently.  Apparently there are some of these water pumps with alloy impellers.  All the pumps I have ever had or stripped have had metal (steel or phosphor bronze?) impellers.  To me, the metal impellers should be better, whilst the vanes of the alloy ones could corrode away in the coolant leaving you with reduced water flow.

However, since there are two types, the Simon repair kits allow for this and the seal for the alloy impeller is deeper and has what appears to be a ceramic seal.  If this is correct, then this is a much better seal arrangement than the plain rubber.  I am modifying a pump to use the ceramic seal with the metal impeller which should provide the best pump possible.

More about this later when I have tested one ...

Roy


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 01, 2014, 08:06:40 pm
Quote Roy
However, since there are two types, the Simon repair kits allow for this and the seal for the alloy impeller is deeper and has what appears to be a ceramic seal.  If this is correct, then this is a much better seal arrangement than the plain rubber.  I am modifying a pump to use the ceramic seal with the metal impeller which should provide the best pump possible.
===================================================================

Does Simon provide the Iron impeller with the kit?
The pump in my 2.2 was with a allu impeller.
The pump on the pic is a Quinton Hazel QCP1011 amd was a lot higher.
15 mm in fact.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6S00qFLtG6U/T2ozr_U28SI/AAAAAAAABb0/xHWMRVq9c5U/s800/P1010934.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uAsWOuAifEc/T2o0eX3ZaqI/AAAAAAAABeI/O2ODMZ-prI8/s800/P1010935.JPG)

The Quinton Hazel is maybe usable for reviving yhe pump but needs a 1.6 bearing I think.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lEvqXtMIIrk/T2o0gyG_4yI/AAAAAAAABek/iz8tjWga1iE/s800/P1010955.JPG)

Both impellers together.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sge35Mlr39E/T2o03Gnq7lI/AAAAAAAABf8/cgdn9jQKc3Y/s800/P1010964.JPG)

Herman



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: roy4matra on September 01, 2014, 09:42:54 pm
Quote Roy
However, since there are two types, the Simon repair kits allow for this and the seal for the alloy impeller is deeper and has what appears to be a ceramic seal.  If this is correct, then this is a much better seal arrangement than the plain rubber.  I am modifying a pump to use the ceramic seal with the metal impeller which should provide the best pump possible.
===================================================================

Does Simon provide the Iron impeller with the kit?

No.  His kit is designed so that you replace like for like.  In other words, if you have a pump with an alloy impeller, you replace the bearing and seal using the other bits from your original.  If you have a pump with the steel impeller, you are supposed to take the seal apart and discard the ceramic bit and rebuild using the rest.  What I am attempting is to use the steel impeller with the complete seal including ceramic seal (which is not how the kit is meant to be used but might produce a better pump).

Quote
The pump in my 2.2 was with a allu impeller.

That is the first I have ever seen.  Thanks for the photos.  Can you measure the casting height for me please.  i.e gasket face to the top of the 'nose' as it will be interesting to compare that to the pumps with steel impellers.

Quote
The pump on the pic is a Quinton Hazel QCP1011 amd was a lot higher.
15 mm in fact.

The Quinton Hazell pump should be 83 mm depth, so if that is truly 15 mm higher than a Murena one that has an alloy impeller, it would suggest the alloy pump housing is only 68 mm not 78 mm as a normal one.  Since the seal for that version is deeper, that means the place where the seal fits inside the housing must be deeper into the casting too.  Can you measure the depth from the gasket face to the bottom of the recess face where the seal fits.

If as I suspect the casting depth of the alloy impeller pump is only 68 mm, then the shaft length through the bearing must be 10 mm shorter too.

The bearing and shaft for the Quinton Hazell pump will be much longer as the casing is deeper.  In fact it is the same as the bearing and shaft used in the 1.6 (and 1.4 and 1.3) pumps.

Since the Simon kit new bearing and shaft has to fit the pumps with steel impeller it must be the longer one as it certainly fits - I have already done one overhaul.

Quote
The Quinton Hazel is maybe usable for reviving yhe pump but needs a 1.6 bearing I think.

I don't understand this comment.  The Quinton Hazell pump already has the same bearing and shaft as the 1.6 pump as I know from those I have here.

Quote
Both impellers together.

Herman

Thanks that shows just what I expected.  The boss of the alloy impeller is shorter which allows the extra length of the longer seal with ceramic addition.

Roy


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 01, 2014, 11:22:11 pm
Sorry Roy, but the pumps are no longer in my possession.
It's been a few years since.
I fixed my pump with the rubber seal and bearing from a 1.6 pump.
I past the QH pomp to a fellow member and as far as I know he used a saw to shorten the 15mm.
He used a bearing from a Bagheera/Murena pump and used the ceramic seal that was in the QH pump.
Found some pics from that job.

Bearing from 1.6 pump.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3bT6U38a1OA/VAThmwmyjII/AAAAAAAAE1k/U_6XvKktozg/s800/lager_uit_de_waterpomp_halen.__medium__678.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gOis_sbBMuM/VAThnlUwsrI/AAAAAAAAE1U/TQf3NI8wZFE/s800/voor_de_waterpomp_heb_je_geen_pers_nodig.__medium__938.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gOis_sbBMuM/VAThnlUwsrI/AAAAAAAAE1U/TQf3NI8wZFE/s800/voor_de_waterpomp_heb_je_geen_pers_nodig.__medium__938.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xY2MMHSaiKQ/VAThmXouLNI/AAAAAAAAE1Y/2GP3r4oWCdw/s800/de_waterpomp_zit_er_terug_onder.__medium__674.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ReP64azYU7k/VAThnL7A6ZI/AAAAAAAAE1M/bgaZYnFaxR0/s600/mooi_in_lijn__medium__884.jpg)
Pics Godfried

It's running for a while in a S now so can't help.



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: roy4matra on September 02, 2014, 04:12:22 am
The pump in this picture is a Quinton Hazel QCP1011.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6S00qFLtG6U/T2ozr_U28SI/AAAAAAAABb0/xHWMRVq9c5U/s800/P1010934.JPG)

A QH QCP1011 pump *with a steel impeller* has a casting depth of 83 mm from gasket face to the nose of the pump. (The surface where the ruler is resting on in this picture)
A Murena pump *with steel impeller* has a casting depth of 78 mm and the shaft sticking out of the nose is shorter.

To convert a QCP1011 pump to a Murena pump involves the following only.
1) Cut off the small bracket with the thread that holds the contact that is used for the Tagora fan clutch as that will get in the way of the pulley.
2) Press the bearing into the pump a further 5 mm, and cut off 5 mm from the nose of the pump casting so the bearing is now flush with the nose again.
3) Since pressing the bearing in by 5 mm will have moved the impeller away from the seal and casting inside the pump, you have to press the impeller back close to the casting again without moving the bearing.  The tips of the impeller should be approx. 0.7 mm (30 thou) from the casting.
4) You now press the pulley on to the shaft without moving the bearing or impeller so it must be supported correctly.  The pulley is pressed much closer to the casting so the vee belt runs much closer to the pump than it does on the Tagora.  I can't find my dimension for this at the moment but I'll check and put it in here later.  If you make a note from the Murena pump before you strip it, then you will know where it needs to be.
5) Finally, you cut off the excess shaft sticking out of the pulley so it is flush.  The shaft is longer since the Tagora required it, but the Murena does not.

Cutting the casting and the shaft can be done with a hacksaw as the alloy casing is soft and the shaft is not hardened.  Scribe a line first around the nose of the casing 5mm in from the edge to keep your cut square.  Use a file to smooth off the edges.

You now have a Murena pump with steel impeller and the casting depth is 78 mm.

You should not cut off more than 5 mm from the casing or reduce it below the 78 mm.  The steel impeller is deeper than the alloy one and if you reduce the casing depth too much the impeller will stick out even more and there is a danger it will foul when the pump is bolted onto the engine.


The long bearing and shaft and the brass casing with black seal on the right in the photo below plus the steel impeller, are the parts normally fitted in the QCP1011 pump.  (The bearing and seal are the same as used in the 1.6 pump but that has a different impeller with the vanes of the impeller going away from the pump housing)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lEvqXtMIIrk/T2o0gyG_4yI/AAAAAAAABek/iz8tjWga1iE/s800/P1010955.JPG)

The shorter bearing and shaft with the ceramic seal assembly still on it (in the picture above) are from a pump with an alloy seal and I've never seen a Quinton Hazell QCP1011 pump (or any other for that matter) with an alloy impeller.  If you do ever come across one (and I would like to know about it please!), the above instructions may not be correct as the dimensions will probably be different.

A Quinton Hazell pump *never* had a ceramic seal.  The steel impeller is pressed directly against the black seal.
(ceramic seals are white and the black rubber seal is pressed against the ceramic seal)

Roy


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 02, 2014, 07:57:24 am
Wow men you're early.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hx-ZdzrqbPQ/VAVYQ7r3K5I/AAAAAAAAE10/kV_8KHEd92c/s800/Tagpomp.JPG)

On this pics the circled parts came of the QCP 1011.
The steel impeller was directly against the black seal with no rubber invalved.
At first I didn't understand how this could be waterproof.
I asked a Murena  specialist how this works.
Het told me the black ring is ceramic material and lubricated by the water that circulate and indeed it looks like ceramic.
The pump came in the original tatty box, but was bought from a closing firm for very low price.
Maybe the pump and box didn't belong together.
I also had a Dolz pump and that has the rubber seal.
The allu impeller and other bearing belonged to the Murena pump that was in my car.
That is what I know about it but I only am busy with this cars since 2007 as a hobby.
Waterpumps are difficult to find to get al history back about it.

Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: roy4matra on September 05, 2014, 09:29:20 pm
Wow men you're early.

Yes, I couldn't sleep (I've been having a pain in my left arm for some time that the NHS still haven't got around to doing anything about yet - well it's only been happening since Easter!!) so I thought I would do something useful to use my time. :-)


(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hx-ZdzrqbPQ/VAVYQ7r3K5I/AAAAAAAAE10/kV_8KHEd92c/s800/Tagpomp.JPG)

Quote
On this pics the circled parts came of the QCP 1011.
The steel impeller was directly against the black seal with no rubber invalved.

Yes I agree and that black seal, as you say is probably ceramic, but I found that type unreliable as they tend to crack and leak.

Others used a rubber seal which were more reliable.

Quote
The pump came in the original tatty box, but was bought from a closing firm for very low price.
Maybe the pump and box didn't belong together.

No it looks correct and I apologise for implying they were all rubber.  Some like the one in the picture were not, but the better ones I found like the Dolz used rubber seals.

Quote
I also had a Dolz pump and that has the rubber seal.
The allu impeller and other bearing belonged to the Murena pump that was in my car.
That is what I know about it but I only am busy with this cars since 2007 as a hobby.
Waterpumps are difficult to find to get al history back about it.

Herman

I guessed the aluminium impeller and short bearing/shaft was from one you had stripped.  It is interesting to see one because as I said, I have never seen one here.  I wonder when they started making them?  Was this a production item from the Talbot period or is this something that someone made as a replacement after the car production had ended?  I guess we'll never know.

Roy


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 06, 2014, 08:12:54 am
I looked back to some info I gathered when you told me the alu impeller is rare.
I taught  it was standard.
In that case you can use this making a working pump.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mwCxrTy8FhQ/T2o1K_anEaI/AAAAAAAABhg/MXOidoZToxU/s800/P1020017.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o2fcVdQi5ns/T2o1LpCyIxI/AAAAAAAABho/revkYKcdmHQ/s800/P1020019.JPG)

on the right the 1.6 bearing and seal the left came from the Murena pump with alu impeller. (Dolz)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Vu1TdP066s4/T2o1Mm2_gLI/AAAAAAAABh0/TXgJ1EwpkWI/s800/P1020021.JPG)

Then you end up with this.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7G90e1c2G2A/T2o1ZcH6DxI/AAAAAAAABjI/p4IYBqg5W6g/s800/P1020058.JPG)

This 1.6 pumps you can find for peanuts. (paid GBP 10) and are in simca 1100 peugeot 309 and some 205.
Most have 16 mm axle and the bearing is the same but there are versions that have 16mm axle but the impeller side is smaller.(found out later),
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uSQZW5NCcls/T2o076ki1RI/AAAAAAAABgc/xKTBFLD_Fbs/s800/P1020008.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y0P1Lo_ND3E/T2o0fup9fiI/AAAAAAAABeY/7T-hwDo-l1Q/s800/P1010952.JPG)

Maybe interesting to know that the seals on the next picture has the same diameter. on the point it's pressed in the pump.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--fyk2lT5EO4/T2o0lMCLFOI/AAAAAAAABfQ/3Ui70SGLOXA/s800/P1010960.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B6LwEmkQU_A/T2o1IaS7A-I/AAAAAAAABhA/K9Mi874Ia2I/s800/P1020011.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FtyFyLF70j4/T2o1H_4SeHI/AAAAAAAABg8/9WT2ChxK2XU/s800/P1020010.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8_cakyhlgqg/T2o1JDFq18I/AAAAAAAABhM/iq5djFnXbUE/s800/P1020012.JPG)

There are also1.6 pumps with the ceramic seals.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-59PAnN9Sol8/VAqi8lku04I/AAAAAAAAE6E/Vp8LuyUebT8/s640/1.6%2520pump.jpg)
pic Urbain

I didn't verify because I only had 1 pump but have the believing that the ceramic seal can be replaced by the rubber seal.

The rubber seals came from a Italian firm. the type is UGH-2 (universal seal).
http://www.meccanotecnicaumbra.com/uwp.php?mainMenuItemToSlide=3
I did contact this firm to ask if they were interested selling some.
Also had contact with Dolz but run with my head against brick walls.
Because of that I stopped investigation and believe me that I put a lot of effort in it.
This was at a time no pump was to be found but now Simon got a solution it's not a big problem anymore.
If I ever find a original Murena pump (What brand is it anyway ?) I still have a 1.6 pump with rubber seal to play with it.
Of-course I will report if I find out.

Herman










Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: roy4matra on September 08, 2014, 01:47:09 am
I too have had great trouble with Dolz, just trying to get them to respond!  They simply ignore my letters and emails.

You can no longer get the correct 2.2 water pumps from Dolz as they list the T116 as the pump for both the 1.6 Murena and 2.2 Murena or Tagora!!  Which is of course incorrect.  The correct Dolz pump for the 2.2 Murena is a T158 and the 2.2 Tagora is a T118 (the Murena has a pulley fitted whilst the Tagora one does not).  I have two Dolz pumps in their boxes showing the correct number, but they still don't want to correct their faults.

Since their website and download catalogue are wrong and they won't correct them, or even acknowledge my pleas to get them corrected, I have had a warning on my website for over a year.

Now Simon can supply kits it is not the big problem it was a short while ago.

Roy


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 08, 2014, 04:20:50 am
Some firms are very arrogant.
I find that stupid.
They can't see what kind of customer I am by a letter.
You have to play there game.
Tell them you are interested in 25000 pieces.
Then you have there attention.
Ask for a few examples.
They will be in the next day if possible.
Thank them for the effort and that you found a cheaper supplier.
You got hunted for a year with offers ;D but you have a few kits to repair for free   :P

Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 08, 2014, 07:01:20 pm
The front brake-piston of a Visa/104 is the same as in a Murena but difficult to find.
Opel Ascona type B (81) and Kadett and some Corsa is also the same size.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3_0bT42e7E8/U_eaKden3II/AAAAAAAAEz0/FiUnmTu24RI/s800/P1070425%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8MmRmUXG15g/U_eaKc13jVI/AAAAAAAAE0A/Pf8V0JOI-YQ/s800/P1070426%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lCw5oReXnzg/U_eaKa3ernI/AAAAAAAAEz8/tudGVx6brD8/s800/P1070427%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Here one in a auction.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171327223567?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have the other one that was for sale there to verify.

Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: roy4matra on September 08, 2014, 09:23:52 pm
The front brake-piston of a Visa/104 is the same but difficult to find.
Opel Ascona type B (81) and Kadett and some Corsa is the same.

Here one in a auction.
I have the other one that was for sale there to verify.

Herman

Useful information Herman, thanks.

We have a company in the UK that can now supply front and rear caliper seal kits and pistons, all at reasonable prices.  Check out Bigg Red www.biggred.co.uk

Roy


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 08, 2014, 09:37:17 pm
Doublepost



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Joe Webb on September 18, 2014, 03:55:29 am
don't know if someone's already spotted this but they sell some window switches in Cliffords that are identical to the original ones

I noticed the ones on matra magic were 17 quid but these ones are about a fiver I think



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 18, 2014, 07:35:21 am
Link?

I have bought several on E-bay and they work and fit but it is
Chinese quality and not as good as the original thing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-CAR-SWITCH-REPLACEMENT-FOR-CAR-WINDOW-SWITCHES-/120731622834?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1c2a5db2

Every now and then the most used give up. (daily driver)
They are not expencive so have a few in stock.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g_TCqGRHz9U/VBpv2ojf5BI/AAAAAAAAFDk/tFC1XExsb9o/s696/Raamswitch%2520%2528Custom%2529.jpg)

There are also with  illumination
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oQYPedqbwLE/T2i95YsYEKI/AAAAAAAAA6o/DRGQD2Segok/s800/bedrading%2520043.jpg)

Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Joe Webb on September 18, 2014, 12:10:57 pm
yup, those are the ones

I'm sure they'll be good enough quality for me :)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: amidlamil on November 03, 2014, 08:50:51 pm
The front brake-piston of a Visa/104 is the same as in a Murena but difficult to find.
Opel Ascona type B (81) and Kadett and some Corsa is also the same size.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8MmRmUXG15g/U_eaKc13jVI/AAAAAAAAE0A/Pf8V0JOI-YQ/s800/P1070426%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)


Here one in a auction.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171327223567?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have the other one that was for sale there to verify.

Herman

inside seals for brakes
hello (remember I am french, i take some infos here so i have to give some)
for consumables square seals (those inside brake) i ordered from REXBO
Article :
étriers AV en 48 1seul x Kit de réparation, étrier de frein 204807 >>joint (torique carrés) et cache poussière 1 seul kit d'un étrier de rallye 2 double pistons en 48 (moins de 10 euros)
étriers AR en 45 2 x Kit de réparation, étrier de frein 204508 >> joint (torique carrés) et cache poussière (env 14 euros piece)

http://caliper.budweg.com/Default.aspx

i try to translate
for front ONE kit 204807 (containing 2 squares toric seals diameter 48)
for rear 2 204508 (containing each one 45 mm seal)

Notice this is good ONLY if your anti dust seal are alright (I mean caliper looks OK from outside)

regards
fred[/color]



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on November 19, 2014, 05:32:28 pm
With some slight adjustments this ignition-barrel can be mounted in a Murena.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170802064082?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Not original Neiman but for 20 Euro incl shipment a bargain..
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ihR0-gyrj18/VGtc01F4GvI/AAAAAAAAFsQ/u1JzDaKUHms/s800/P1070779%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-eC3vqNagwZc/VGtdjNnOlBI/AAAAAAAAFsM/7ElFPIDH5mw/s800/P1070780%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KS8lU4yFSVs/VGuaYqQbUPI/AAAAAAAAFsk/DBG9YwASTKw/s486/Slot.jpg)

It's the same as from a Murena, only the lock is a few mm longer.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L60bFqEmswc/VGtclFuNFJI/AAAAAAAAFqU/kyVgB1KlfxI/s800/P1070781%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Bpbkf2iJolU/VGtcmTq_7QI/AAAAAAAAFqc/f_M2kRqREI0/s800/P1070782%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3loCATBkWkE/VGtct-3GNyI/AAAAAAAAFqk/An2YhqCsUok/s800/P1070783%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

With a bit patience you can swap it..
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kDumjZ9Y7Ck/VGtcxuk_5jI/AAAAAAAAFqs/2B1IKHhk62Q/s800/P1070784%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ioTT0euk2OM/VGtcz_YW0vI/AAAAAAAAFro/8NoPFE4_uaU/s800/P1070785%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iTlTjHkEdRs/VGtdPLWEz7I/AAAAAAAAFrI/FeZeFau5YQU/s800/P1070786%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-katOhmHntLM/VGtc9AEtfDI/AAAAAAAAFrg/0CeOCa4iwvM/s800/P1070788%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CkaTS24vgF8/VGtdTvGSMyI/AAAAAAAAFrM/bBXmMZ3SWu4/s800/P1070789%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Red = + and yellow is starter.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uMi-U3LisEo/VGtdWKCw_lI/AAAAAAAAFsA/NvtHMZj-vs0/s800/P1070790%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

The yellow in this connector = + contact.
The yellow with stripe = + with contact on but switches of during start.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7NG3UkxXoP4/VGtdY1cfJZI/AAAAAAAAFr8/Xl3pcExRW4U/s800/P1070791%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Tested in the place of the Murena lock.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pT4Ed8otzQQ/VGtdaY8l8WI/AAAAAAAAFr0/PgRNKRqJJNQ/s800/P1070793%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Only the lock-pin is slightly out allignement (1mm or so).
Grind a bit of and the lock is a direct fit, the bolt to fasten it is in line
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JSCV2cf75jo/VGtdakOdOvI/AAAAAAAAFr4/K2gUCq3LAC0/s800/P1070794%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Cheap solution for a expensive lock.

Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: TimS on November 20, 2014, 07:46:05 pm
Thanks Herman,

Was just looking for a replacement for mine. This is perfect!
Tim


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on December 04, 2014, 07:15:20 pm
Expansion bottles for Murena 1.6 for 24 Euro shipment included.
They are the same as Alfa 33.
For sale here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140820440671?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3MXsCK_87dU/VIChzLS_jHI/AAAAAAAAFug/wZPSlB5ZdWw/s800/P1070798%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VFC5ROV7Hgs/VIChzDwLi3I/AAAAAAAAFus/Qy_VrE0bjjw/s800/P1070801%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BnNrpLEDunY/VIChzGkfC6I/AAAAAAAAFuo/LiVLbs2V1qE/s800/P1070802%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
Cap =0.5 bar.
Better use the original cap, there is is a little difference in pressure.

Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: TELBOY on September 07, 2015, 08:01:14 pm
Hi all:-
Can anybody out there tell me if Simon Autos is the only place I can get rear stabilizer (roll bar ) rubbers? I am after 4 of the little ones that link it to the swing arm and the two big ones for mounting to the chassis.  45GBP sounds a little expensive as I also have to get some swing arm rubbers from him.

Thanks, Tel


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 07, 2015, 08:24:42 pm
Not a exact but it does the job.
From a vw corrado but I think others will fit to.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ezr5IZzGipM/Ve3fgV6852I/AAAAAAAAGsc/X-yQEEVRguY/s800-Ic42/stab1%252520%252528Custom%252529.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A0Vc5tyxGtM/Ve3fgr8BmUI/AAAAAAAAGsg/RkU4uE6N20E/s720-Ic42/stab2%252520%252528Custom%252529.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gZbsk4KiWmE/Ve3fgzFCpbI/AAAAAAAAGsk/eamVYM2uXAk/s800-Ic42/stab3%252520%252528Custom%252529.jpg)
pics Richard

This is fitted on 1.6.
The stabilizer on a 2.2 are 2mm thicker so drill a bit of.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 07, 2015, 08:59:48 pm
Idea?...from Bart ....rose-joints
At ebay for peanuts.
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y96/matramurena/RIMG0135-960.jpg)
pic Bart Maztra


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: TELBOY on September 07, 2015, 11:32:34 pm
SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.4 i 16V  1 390 ccm  74 kW / 101 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.6 i  1 598 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1993 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  74 kW / 101 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1994 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.8 i  1 781 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1993 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.8 i 16V  1 781 ccm  95 kW / 129 PS  1993 - 1996 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.9 D  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1996 - 1996 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.9 SDI  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.9 TD  1 896 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1993 - 1996 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.9 TDI  1 896 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  1.9 TDI  1 896 ccm  81 kW / 110 PS  1997 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  2.0 i  1 984 ccm  85 kW / 115 PS  1993 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA (6K1, 6K2)  2.0 i 16V  1 984 ccm  110 kW / 150 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA Vario (6K5)  1.4 i  1 390 ccm  44 kW / 60 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA Vario (6K5)  1.6  1 598 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1999 - 2002 
 SEAT  CORDOBA Vario (6K5)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  74 kW / 101 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA Vario (6K5)  1.6 i  1 598 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA Vario (6K5)  1.9 SDI  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA Vario (6K5)  1.9 TDI  1 896 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  CORDOBA Vario (6K5)  1.9 TDI  1 896 ccm  81 kW / 110 PS  1997 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.0  1 043 ccm  33 kW / 45 PS  1993 - 1996 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.0 i  999 ccm  37 kW / 50 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.3 i  1 272 ccm  40 kW / 54 PS  1993 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.4 i 16V  1 390 ccm  74 kW / 101 PS  1997 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.6 i  1 598 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1993 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  74 kW / 101 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1994 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.8 i  1 781 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1993 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.8 i 16V  1 781 ccm  95 kW / 129 PS  1993 - 1996 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.9 D  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1993 - 1996 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.9 SDI  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.9 TD  1 896 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1993 - 1996 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.9 TDI  1 896 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  1.9 TDI  1 896 ccm  81 kW / 110 PS  1997 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  2.0 i  1 984 ccm  85 kW / 115 PS  1993 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA II (6K1)  2.0 i 16V  1 984 ccm  110 kW / 150 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  IBIZA III (6K1)  1.0  999 ccm  37 kW / 50 PS  1999 - 2002 
 SEAT  IBIZA III (6K1)  1.4  1 390 ccm  44 kW / 60 PS  1999 - 2002 
 SEAT  IBIZA III (6K1)  1.6  1 598 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1999 - 2002 
 SEAT  INCA (6K9)  1.4 i  1 390 ccm  44 kW / 60 PS  1995 - 2003 
 SEAT  INCA (6K9)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1995 - 1998 
 SEAT  INCA (6K9)  1.6 i  1 598 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1997 - 2000 
 SEAT  INCA (6K9)  1.7 D  1 716 ccm  42 kW / 57 PS  1996 - 2003 
 SEAT  INCA (6K9)  1.9 D  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1995 - 2003 
 SEAT  INCA (6K9)  1.9 SDI  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1995 - 2003 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  54 kW / 73 PS  1991 - 1999 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  52 kW / 71 PS  1991 - 1993 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1993 - 1999 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.6 i  1 595 ccm  74 kW / 101 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.8 16V  1 781 ccm  92 kW / 125 PS  1991 - 1999 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.8 i  1 781 ccm  65 kW / 88 PS  1991 - 1996 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.8 i  1 781 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1993 - 1996 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.9 D  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1995 - 1999 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.9 TD  1 896 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1991 - 1999 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.9 TDI  1 896 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1995 - 1999 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  1.9 TDI  1 896 ccm  81 kW / 110 PS  1996 - 1999 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  2.0 i  1 984 ccm  85 kW / 115 PS  1991 - 1999 
 SEAT  TOLEDO I (1L)  2.0 i 16V  1 984 ccm  110 kW / 150 PS  1993 - 1999 
 VW  CADDY II Furgons (9K9A)  1.4  1 390 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  2000 - 2004 
 VW  CADDY II Furgons (9K9A)  1.9 D  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1995 - 2004 
 VW  CADDY II Furgons (9K9A)  1.9 SDI  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1995 - 2004 
 VW  CADDY II Furgons (9K9A)  1.9 TDI  1 896 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1996 - 2004 
 VW  CADDY II Furgons (9K9A)  60 1.4  1 390 ccm  44 kW / 60 PS  1995 - 2004 
 VW  CADDY II Furgons (9K9A)  75 1.6  1 598 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1995 - 2000 
 VW  CADDY II Furgons (9K9A)  75 1.6  1 595 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1995 - 1997 
 VW  CADDY II Pick-up (9U7)  1.6  1 598 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1996 - 2000 
 VW  CADDY II Pick-up (9U7)  1.9 D  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1996 - 2000 
 VW  CADDY II Universālis (9K9B)  1.4  1 390 ccm  44 kW / 60 PS  1995 - 2004 
 VW  CADDY II Universālis (9K9B)  1.6  1 595 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1995 - 1997 
 VW  CADDY II Universālis (9K9B)  1.6  1 598 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1997 - 2000 
 VW  CADDY II Universālis (9K9B)  1.9 D  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1995 - 2004 
 VW  CADDY II Universālis (9K9B)  1.9 SDI  1 896 ccm  47 kW / 64 PS  1995 - 2004 
 VW  CORRADO (53I)  1.8 16V  1 781 ccm  100 kW / 136 PS  1989 - 1992 
 VW  CORRADO (53I)  1.8 G60  1 781 ccm  118 kW / 160 PS  1988 - 1993 
 VW  CORRADO (53I)  2.0 i  1 984 ccm  85 kW / 115 PS  1993 - 1995 
 VW  CORRADO (53I)  2.0 i 16V  1 984 ccm  100 kW / 136 PS  1991 - 1995 
 VW  CORRADO (53I)  2.9 VR6  2 861 ccm  140 kW / 190 PS  1991 - 1995 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.0  1 043 ccm  33 kW / 45 PS  1983 - 1985 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.0  1 043 ccm  37 kW / 50 PS  1985 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.3  1 272 ccm  40 kW / 55 PS  1983 - 1987 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.3 KAT  1 272 ccm  40 kW / 55 PS  1986 - 1992 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.6  1 595 ccm  51 kW / 70 PS  1986 - 1992 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.6  1 595 ccm  53 kW / 72 PS  1986 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.6  1 595 ccm  55 kW / 75 PS  1983 - 1992 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.6 D  1 588 ccm  40 kW / 54 PS  1983 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.6 TD  1 588 ccm  51 kW / 70 PS  1983 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.6 TD  1 588 ccm  59 kW / 80 PS  1989 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.6 TD  1 589 ccm  44 kW / 60 PS  1989 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8  1 781 ccm  62 kW / 84 PS  1986 - 1990 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8  1 781 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1984 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8 GTI  1 781 ccm  82 kW / 112 PS  1983 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8 GTI  1 781 ccm  79 kW / 107 PS  1985 - 1987 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8 GTI  1 781 ccm  77 kW / 105 PS  1985 - 1985 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8 GTI 16V  1 781 ccm  95 kW / 129 PS  1986 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8 GTI 16V  1 781 ccm  102 kW / 139 PS  1986 - 1990 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8 GTI G60  1 781 ccm  118 kW / 160 PS  1990 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8 GTI G60 Syncro  1 781 ccm  118 kW / 160 PS  1988 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8 GTI KAT  1 781 ccm  79 kW / 107 PS  1987 - 1991 
 VW  GOLF II (19E, 1G1)  1.8 i KAT  1 781 ccm  66 kW / 90 PS  1987 - 1991


Thanks again Oatker

Tel
 


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: TELBOY on September 07, 2015, 11:43:31 pm
eBay item number:

361374948287

will keep you posted


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on April 17, 2016, 02:11:56 pm
A often problem in our Murena's (and other Talbots) is play on the knucklehead near the steering rack.
The slightest play and MOT is a No.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0n4rBIfHU4M/Vw-UvsgPEGI/AAAAAAAAHJY/frVd08DxzS4dHroYAf0hSLh4RPODSZG7QCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080269%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

This is a expencive part at the dealers and I was looking for a while to replace the inner U-joint.
Some time ago I bought this at E-bay for a good price.

U-126 made by GKN GKN.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steering-Column-Joint-16x16x40mm-/221946349577?hash=item33ad088809:g:eO8AAOSweuxWT2mO
Bearings bush is 16mm and total cross size 40mm
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KuFQiXVFCec/Vw-UwNg3SWI/AAAAAAAAHLE/4TzGa3mHjwMGYvehTpUtrTJ5YK4g7c3KwCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080272%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

After some measurements it looks good to replace teh old ones.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gPqCzXKJYuQ/Vw-Uwg_SUtI/AAAAAAAAHLE/ZA_wktS4bTA5VBJXCoGKjUb3b-gPC_QPQCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080274%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KEbw67-js-k/Vw-Uxp9y77I/AAAAAAAAHLE/fu8bfWljTrITwoQuiyJ_QfIYo1zqbAFxQCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080278%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z3NVJ2z6PzI/Vw-Ux2MKTzI/AAAAAAAAHLE/6o-3JCFTcF42b7bfGG5xdflJ4XPzVRdNACCo/s800-Ic42/P1080279%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A_L6qBbI8Hk/Vw-UyF4rdnI/AAAAAAAAHLE/Qs9woIcD03UGkU-BYk0GILfQe-C0RdVKQCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080280%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Mounting is not difficult.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rw1bcEA-ohw/Vw-UyfRJ73I/AAAAAAAAHLE/dBctlrveVmcm4IBJNO3l0pXK707FiUicQCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080281%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qYh1rVlQcuE/Vw-Uy7mbwsI/AAAAAAAAHLE/ZPRgVcIwTBY9NLZiwOmbpmcOC0QDJQ-MwCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080282%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dfuyh36kP0Y/Vw-Uy7ArrdI/AAAAAAAAHLE/RtrXN1vyR3oLu7Uzeyeyl5ISRum6z12igCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080283%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Oy2fVyueELY/Vw-UzJhrgKI/AAAAAAAAHLE/scHbVHGYg7gjZOXPoKsCT9aNqQd0iMrowCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080284%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--IDlNMI02hU/Vw-UzsMO-5I/AAAAAAAAHLE/w9qwoI8-G3QwnWaghjNgzigr0eNWJ6_QgCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080285%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TSxovS3BFKo/Vw-Uz1ZcbEI/AAAAAAAAHLE/5VLsTLB-ZZMnHbCFxVxmEfdWpYPkes0pwCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080286%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RWW3KC_UgSo/Vw-U0BqQEqI/AAAAAAAAHLE/0pVdCXu3MkUMuo5M0ZVFBxk_iQTcxEJOACCo/s800-Ic42/P1080287%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pYWJlXpa9CM/Vw-U0WG-gbI/AAAAAAAAHLE/WYIcOcHv2MUJ3WQnmJfPG12lp7A3l3T9QCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080288%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2IBdp7tlobk/Vw-U0aABpxI/AAAAAAAAHLE/achEhOXVyfQuBrYVKOAJ-iKs_VXAyqnwgCCo/s800-Ic42/P1080289%2B%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Still thinking how to secure it.
bolt or weld a little plate?

Found a interesting document how to line the knuckle-joints
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FFmpCCSLRik/Vw-U5hF3ewI/AAAAAAAAHLI/qdV8N47kEVE9-25OVSTog3NRgfJOS4c_QCCo/s786-Ic42/Steerjonits.jpg)

Greet Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: klumzer on April 18, 2016, 08:32:31 pm
I do not know if there is enough space to do this, but maybe you can make some punch mark by a center punch around the bearing. It could safety the bearing similarly to the attached photo.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Lanng on April 25, 2016, 12:29:59 pm
This is NOT advertisement for a website.

I had trouble finding parts for my Bagheera or just verifying parts no. from different suppliers. So I found these two databases. They have specific parts BUT they also list the name and parts no from different suppliers and on which cars they will fit.

http://www.kakapart.com
http://www.yoyopart.com/

No; its it not a straight forward as "need-front-boing-boing-spring-part-for-french-car" but if you have one manufacturer name and part no., you can find the same part from other manufactures and which cars it also will fit.

Anyway, it found it helpfull when scavenging for parts since its easier to find parts for a Peugoet 205 than a Bagheera.

Happy hunting :)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on May 04, 2016, 08:13:27 am
Finding parts this way can be usefull but I have experienced that the info is not always right.
There are som part manufacturers that provided the wrong info in there docs.
That happened with brake pads but also with ball-joints and other stuff as I learned the hard way.
Sometimes I find more then 10 replacements for a part and If I verify it with the part bibles I have, several mistake parts are found.

Ragards Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on September 16, 2016, 10:13:40 am
My 1.6 Bosch distributor had some problems after more then 250.000 miles.
The axle had to much play and therefore the cap had no long lifespan.
The bushes/bearings had to much wear.
Th cap moved sometimes when the engine was running.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O1k8e6Fnc8PBqxG0okKR0RGsHMHiO3V-ZkoA87039EMox71yR7Mu5lRD2a4AEM8gc54EFMubBpo-bnVoMoKBv_hVrr8Svk6WIy5KajQFu6-29IsigMRt4kCZcLiQNSCcX9x3E7nieUJ4TmL-RulqcZ4g51nnylSm7_bl40VxXUUh-Qbu8OqO9sx7OtKcBzZFTEBSzUPZR05Nj_bBpGDmJ95gsc9U4uzFJJqMrOoE8EzsjG6o5Bd1nNAi0cq2l2VrfYJnd3jU42cRoWux3LqRizmlF3z8M_xWqA28hkUF6qRBCQoCXovg8ozZsqZYG5PgXtAY3G-9yi5ARE1JzebiFJCjpnk238xBa5z1QmnTHkSsY9tW0_63h51lzCqyje6HBcdew7ViRpAj107l0yPwyD6Qxj8OrZB6DJUtfpcYK-I5uXeT1mJPc-Oqlit6Qfyxg34i8sW0tOlDC9aX-pIr-zTu-cD9F23C5NGuOicJWKeWeGs4ss5A3BGjVhmvIK0ETcSbad62dejkjQaEYu_UMxBvRvAzbRDpHl2dAdIa87uTY3qK12p5pgpPPynPvTI-AFtpyhfd2R05c3cLhCpHDoWNkvAA6H8W_qSVR7WorQ=w800-h535-no)

De axle was in acceptable state, not much wear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/II2zg36HiHCHrg2W-oFGPhft2VU9orNwNz_qzb2tuKowuxppy2sUiwoWHMdNlVtOmRFMG6uvoIhI3rqoEPh7gdnPc6YtK-vrHwbpJmOQ-sWdUrGvqT5qh9A8NPLZMPVykMD_gVwBcUi8klleyhKVO6TYwMw1LcMg99I9NR7NcStxsHc58PwNvcYELE3UT737NpKayCRLiN8H7XRY-luWMyUVWB16nQKGPMD_D_SEVhMNE5_NGzpuMDMd1O6uL4G4rQO0CGtSgdy5OROwjm9u1g5RWhRWEH2ctRE2by5G3F-1wzT3Y29V94UYfBCRdirFuow90zplUfgNBqa0J7FaVxQHONYCcW9LLF7cQwJE81UORvNLNOyQZyMbqLesUt-ZucwlIBCQZOckQFMW-m01N5vvHa00G3QUjRD6pl7Q9qfCMtcMPZvBt9a4BXghe_69P0wxVdsTAqfoZld9MuUpxZNAcg7FjikC-c_ZnxDo1Ow2D1tLMfqYjnJOAAoI3TGNTqPWnqHUw5JgWZkGtg3_TYqt41bInGCBdCNUojYcc0lzVvz2TbG5BioFXpeFDOUWuSpHsc4c2N9gLjbIJwxvCin013_vVkBXCt4wwvxhkg=w800-h453-no)

The iron bushes were end of life.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o_voDBeYnA-M2BOgFujnVy9kfE15oLZa9G74z7LqWWVl_L10BTX8l7Kd2haTt2pabj7JHkZl_nkb91kSjzYwO71iViQtn6VK6Q86gye3lrD5y6b_RhqASYyoVoXJyxlqWFyMbRcaOBNm8s3ZWma3Q70v1V8671LCfH1bxMZH1Vz8d6t2FKTAeTJ1CvXlqYH907nGv2lRcrZEVZ_aMkHEFc0Q2JtPujJ5wWZxWt6UMhDu2kk0pFCac78ZNKso0JrtrqNa19JfD-7_yx7yrVk74aF_GdKiWYlk29PAPQvgeNmXn0Xz2EQmjIozh6PniKdLsQhtNHveN_-kYHRbl_9mTQKPYIbtlEQHfw5cG4su0oiUlYW7KWtzUXvJE9NfAJGwATbSV6j2i_f87lVML-MqcDcgZAVaAQHlt6LedqFokG9isEogwyL1o_lDfRR_DLiLjV6t3EY5e0Gp_Ubc20OZO6KbAg-Nb1nZ5SxeG3paX4tze98fqumGu0jF_YdcqP1JmMvfVA83UQL_cMMf_R8HUUrM_nGwcp6lRD6K0ON_6oMDDxWpfrOS5hlpBAPEcOjTr5Grmx0O1l2DPeKX6xlJP0LYKs9wntJAvVC7_3zlWg=w800-h535-no)

Measured the axle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8B9LH5goAJphHba92u-zvb2XGrBIUNXYHJgf6VThtIH5UY23JJ9VXAAvgpUiE24A-kHsvoNZ5WGRphIA7MKxcOyK1E80LHYS4ZW7N2QHqUOvEQzqGyb2zYceQvACqoC-9s_LfyvJpXPDCLWzVov1SWlRVKRLKrUEHO24gKvDGMm5ykBpPRwN73M70p7Nw947a6QUO_GQ8gP-e-0KUL6vCSWxN3WQjGZC7gfr4KzruxgXpMHcqEJDyDNt7gLgr_po6eg-oo5MRXs4gtGIppUcBxgGVgAEUc6YJ6agfR4p2cillav0yMlrhlmrPSLrODTHb8X-3_DkR-0BKh3uCri35GVZq8q0hkXREKp38dbiTDSpWCE3_2NKHil_M7-WZzqYjGGJ0wJL_hqIaH4kPFWp-fzb6dQmnBNw3mZkzGwT6R7s-FyVfsudcBPOkD3Xsvry5dEkGqpd_brozSLA1yxCfeIZsjB6ckyKpdV9LWhAQMwqVUaMA8JhyupxyJmRn0jCGFHfvB1zassweRwgmoduBfq9lsV2t7LHBrWQ_Xcc4PbEUqBft-VwN9dH6FnjFr0pFUcQQKsZLukzrOI0E7pFHVeUd-JS5kHJmAtDxHLUig=w800-h535-no)

Removed bushes.
Not much force needed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LCtaL8mmTI4xN-QgdS3uSlUdsvtbGICavQGEi42O85cVcQ2-wgEUD4Ro1A2VwPGQHiwf8fsvluVvZJ3pKC1uqllQSbrQTC8c2g-cMaGIZTKnPevjBrDhsvyCJQ7MwF_tPxhfdnYiUPRzNcELKYCqeVIi8RxZganfCtSlgAoSwzJ5y_fMdoGqgRK9eI81DAvsOuK2acAFU148pDBQjrgxShkB9BDyuzgV5gAEqtNpM2fB0n53_WnNq2NNEA2sgqKIXbKndCVjWqDKduE_64ll9D-s459tgsK0JzNlarhJOv7uXvsdaZIVzpbHBh0QURXGFDxNT7WAw53utdvJN_j77vib_BfX74qZp8BcDMeS9hK7ZFcsEE_xUyyWFRGvnNyiQtvibb6WRHk3ffk3gQ2KEgL1uH0Bgvj7S0P3hIQkKgyULKGGj6pSZq6QdvQDhCsdu72NKvpV9c1pfV9uXiG6heqKkzMMwbJLmkNaEhqbRObPH4VVogw4tDGD8Enqws8R3RIqp-RTuawRMGJzsrH4wtNgEIoHKXny-hb8T40INz8lmtBCSyocE6A5mr-PCaP37aor1zwe-6VjSS2TLu0ClgE5RBzzZS_-IoeVg0PHdg=w800-h535-no)

Inner diameter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3pi_3beRIbxRGQJ8fUHlUH7Xwo09b_p5r7WdyRQNN1a-EZC76DXru2-Dbplrf4nK5ZZQ2mvcGDuXqMsMLOy9T-lVHpWFQcn1wDy-i7sryv0hwunHGbVW5xd-orIP1375pLlmR-d8C3VBKZg1KxKj2Ts1ZsbWiyBx2XF-gL5oHoiSteJ8u6BC4e1rx74Mhw8J-R2QFXtl015vASIXL5Y9PIRqDZPf_ZMXUkedzEWT35glE9_AlJOfQtWV87hAKEq-RtiDs9c9pQQjr3xomY-1RX3XJF9RpK4T_NtYwgczEPlly-_9ZlIDHA137HCsryKQ_EZe95ovdtxqwxXFeKxs24smIp2sQuK0BQncPZZAUcm3pIwJI19KxVKx2326n63n9muFZFwqwxVizKE5bzBf9vc52_atLmxtgo7YSMeI30YsZcG-tOLdfrXBNZlPXwjWTCtg3cFwYY-1LqnpjkkzI0XIyenpmO5hS0xvZn_KENsFR5RgDA6yBrDEPEqhLxJISys5P0YRDPmBlhGMDO26SSCts1iV89ble7idcOXbBJoJnQgKwavMNbNwD_aa4zU8I4UfYg06CXcGfP1CrUIafanG0ANhe61sAK2Lb9fCDg=w800-h535-no)

Ofcourse if you have the tools you can make the bushes yourself but I found a ready solution.
This are sintered bearings.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=391543914572#ht_500wt_1414

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s_-plp4HxvQ8sCHjxHyimARazvBSxEyCjxKPU-Ol-JHFHPwZfwsaaAx3Jbf31pPywxopofVuFOXLTLtrJHqcvuuw68QNCQV4_m9Flyk4Jc2CDeKFNbEiHxEwVaHmndZBHTQrntZo_EhOFklKEoPJHI9iUDGojdnV90tB7aR6BhNutY9WO01khxpszqU32CcnV2N_r-44OAXlp-l4wzb9dVTpWetBlShPzocbgB-gENBaXawMA6vkpYmgbEp4hcALmtBhUF6pHU_nmk58YyjZNgoj8SDCJGovlwwweS0v4KbD-JBcSvoWmvgq-cBW4Ip7yYQaQJxS6y61n21Ub9SrMmFuaqBAp-3p0c9U_rQ74rII-Yyc_rmRisbEq97E9u96YWBq3R80mQI66nGAwfgQK2aCDxvy6nk7BAvkZ8t00CPi9HHBoeXrvv47bCTDBsYcC2lzAZ3Y-oHyYC_yM-Xeyzn1UdjEU9nE62SoQmuQgNmdPNFYLysEKdongLWfxip9fOmdxmcfvJBYCIxcgCMgTmiIEiWE5_wrdyCFLpJzj77PAqNDNysvswEHD4rb-3jaZH1vNVHHKhx7fqqwOobiVmE51Cg9B50Ct3Oj-pT37g=w800-h535-no)

Bushes and distributor for some hours in the freezer and mounting was simple.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DIfEg1u977mj9MMJaw1CSl26dPsZ2Ou46Y8KnWhQMRMFwj7rMgmYrNkczAoi8ETwwWnpoz4eCtCGsQfQRt9CggMqGQ4Bn2BblFj8E8pRYWXSTe1DGQ3_rbljOrMT1QzaNgsLagePPwFfznum-Om1ULlo0MZdHnQQ8YH0lr6TEofT2FWfhL2ZB4iRsPz3pBmAT5LQuFqz3fRbTJF_-sNroaaYv6oFyalDwWpoOmizfKUNG9ywprs0tKerGwYNw38zH3FpWUMJRHViMS4r-RyFnL6pWGhuHBCjxXjl_iiSp-7lJz6DpMjVJzwtSX3yb-tPnHR72QoZoQIVFLB8W8mRSaHQF5FrI38bj1u9rYx6iVTJ-wy6YoLevUssE0m0268aJoSZVpOe3QDyCXFSGOyix30a9OZg5za9ly__EuuNN9s0KH1ux2n4IOMAZhwrAOI7-TCC9nvo2mZPfqgGlYRgk8e2FT2ZAW0KDpeHheQYJhMPnpP_m2ymxks16OlxpJVI9NhN8Y1c-85xp6FaG32b4yidFVqd7OMaalcCKT9SWGNySpVMYTSBzGMIEUaoePvlV3ehxdR_ycwIrv8xCoePbPJZj1LCfDnkgAmawCTtSw=w800-h535-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lXBdmgk_s02A_l3n2jfZncjpeUH0XaxzubfrMA-DD_xCdsUBSC68H8Wf_4HSHoaIfK0iS-PxMGSI-4Ka4-U4NMYFKy1WFrM9af00J4HVOlOthYWHeKExtt0zkzJjJvEgmGhY9ywIqm1ax08N8pe-nH11kHlKy5eqKs2OJaCTlGN6B8n1Lzyb_s3R0v2xCBznyyh5N6Su_EC6iMaXy-v-dVKuRMD_43hlrlg6_DYJ0UMd4j6UuK79eWM7-I4gNYr5-XYy7YWd_c3RtjNo1h_v1hO5iQ69VT7vGYt8s2rT_ERnHuCvCVzZMEDBlDweamqgSivYSYYg81rT12fPswqAvsH25XvVpnTUfIDTAr4sCR2bR79_p7uLfB70QZwERO2dHv5E0aKhyNXyQNOneRr3je7LdACD6zHxzNbcUjH5CeF11fHyLl_mV9E0AanuSYNcMyMkcITciXzywqiOng9AWVbWFMegGG4Krz236QJiQUZ0OdV-aVsnmKJkBpr725waWhy3ijM9ZRxbXdkC-c-yF-teVNxyMX8QrUVj6lyPosZFFopYGIRm_9LayTHFJV8F_kE3N4GFzGO6a6gTJEgL-bAif8MDG05z1WX-MSMukg=w800-h535-no)

Some molykote on the bushes (Forheps not needed because engine oil reach the axle but to be sure).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AJIRaaQNqAy5U9cw-OoswR5dnfaW6YJLl7U4Pg2mXhTG1u14pM21Za7JxwtXCavEaxNWXaRea0oTA8xfIDKK3x0Auvz18OivyumngPWRc0O1Qp4hg5W6Exaf3mtyzBwrzgKEA0Hbv1fooXxHoipdBjdHP9r7L9gkqEny61MTHEXt-R5bROYI3tYxLmKnL5rc6Rl41Icck-spV0gGDVZb30V_PzolbuG8XMqvCgY1WzD6vd4h2bzlzRBhgC9-OxnFNrc5h2IGea-vyTshImP8jwdiVMAXqDQwyiAtMlwtfKoR5ParZz3YCdOkfmhU2cDSCGLeYayJc-uWrL-FuDlrdL3v5mqdhPcb4WMeICdMR-nlFdEzdfRT4WP7R7iBtRHa3AKsERJiiupSodkDGy6AKE2_q9Zvro0vIV720sYXGxRlfog1pthihwDdK30dbd5YpzeeGXDkG_bqn_MCnBP6WspuZ4KS03eunGnFA73ivlAaupXoPwrWPPVQnSpdTVr4oaNkwFVI45CMU2TSFLWYPGAes8aPBu5orLs0HsFRzPK9MFfhpd6DX0JDyzOjfmOx68tm5-URlqZMfVJzf5mXlFL2_G-AHjpKXpIftkVNgw=w800-h535-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zO8mzB2zqpGIr8vUP4koyO-P4kqvTbnNzji6Kb1XWVLpbIeT3B3rkEqqpGqOhCCmLS93yIPLG5VrFYtzQDewLqXoCu7JTn5Vb8snZ-hQSgs4PTCbURRNiTzVc8eoKBG8OqosJPh4vT6hra22uruSdhut2BpE-D5W9dOii1HvEJ1sjV92ZpmwlRcb09mh-T44GyQr9WyA97isTgZX81nq3-N4V3on7Q8JzImq6tRqEYFUYTPA4-APDCF_MwqKZlVZfGMQ0R-GDOgS-HiRxETHrKFqSCJ5GTUUIohqkDJlPx1HyzEN9e_hh4jS_1MN2OV3f-OgnE1m3_5emIAfy527-ivfqCuZ3Kz_FGRpR4RHwK9AjXE7jcKlxMSEk4j48T9PP6rqp5hHqGXggTaQcUAiqH5vNbQsh86oJiJwrdydLo3p0sbAHCJxhldisOFeQox1iMq_mGHBM5wYsyiSFdkkWGlY_U-zU_7sFFwzGlw7vwGAP-TvjM16YvLKpw3MI-82w5m-bKD6xKGC0q8VcNfDPEY8itlLnqwVARzTxMlwnCtfVNta5udRmaR6ePGakFFOtPZo8AHY5-eOhDjtBZ7KFCBgIcjX2DNgZh01xVqvtA=w800-h535-no)

New rotor original type.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CVkyW0ATLTULnNq10OwzLEibq-mupJM7rHrIiuTpUIqk7s_GsqYHLiL92AKv0AJ4JsN1gETppGTKRyXLXJFlfnW3a8ZsQARSwdXzOh3TIKEo8PGBFJzxog4TjDjw4f-gD5cINsrJ1RFYH_zsWQzU-Y3yhQCJHq2ZwubR7Wne9O2l9DbkaYdAnUw4l23u2CxH1vKi6JhxVF3epOiy6xha7P50j3eNplrpXmj-8HOopfD5jGxdfoAQlex9587CGPUgfRli2OwWVdC1Sw7sK4CYp9NUtRcJBRXOz8zt9LMbj1_1MXiiG5pBvVNvemVdADRxCIv4okx_n_XxwulASROfy-rB_brSOMZJS7A5pkBm0n_ADBHB6J22vOyAqdlF_kqsou9b2dUKX8QhT1YBkoIHjEsoSh752u7p7xqKpkDtE5iHjclEEao0bkeVd8ldZIyfyga8Rr-1Ggdy1fqGbzy7ue8Hsplrv3HJQTEaedq_QMGZu2PFWYXcOZquwMUj_wYV52Z5ZIURAJJ6eQ-cGLk1-I0aLe37Tv36Xt31weCvjYyLWbimO-GcCDxHkWwsHXBgi0Lzg3T4J4Yky6OzyvKfxgidPJiirMZyL0hBvi24ig=w800-h535-no)

For sale here.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311417528233?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

New cap from Saab 900.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IVHnRwJCFN-O25W3T8ZsgFjf1bcNQesLJwVhq9iy4istTPfliblTc4mIOhq6pu02jcyUqcACWuFO=w1680-h1050-rw-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5UMZpMF3t_13G29aE4ggCSh7AVQYV_53tf4DMuOa13VJIWUOovOY6JZ3I-Y3mRBCPnKaK4k_8kyf=w1680-h1050-rw-no)

Builded.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VH4H94cSGLbKllOqW7TTX56fsMQvFWncEqCKXTqO7aovcPkkN9lo1qO44b5DcPT8lX9e0mlf0dMC=w1680-h1050-rw-no)

Easy solution for Bosch ditributors from 1.6 and other Talbots that use this kind of dizzy.
1000 miles tested till now.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: gtv63 on May 02, 2017, 07:34:19 pm
Hi!
Just found that the temperature gauge sender located at the thermostat housing has stopped working on my 2,2.  I can get a new one from Simon, but I am in a bit of a hurry.
Is this item used on other, more common cars?
Have an appointment with the norwegian "biltilsynet" in less than a week. Would hate to wait one more month.


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Oetker on May 02, 2017, 08:00:04 pm
It's found on a wide range of cars.
Partsshop Intermotor number52220
Peugeot/Citroen dealer number 1337.72

Or here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Intermotor-52220-Sender-Unit-coolant-temperature-/201640975074?fits=Car+Make%3ATalbot&hash=item2ef2bd1ae2:g:IT4AAOSw9NdXqDl1

Regards Herman


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: richard on July 25, 2017, 08:14:44 am
hi,

i used my 3D printer to create alternative parts for the Murena. So far there are gear sets for door mirrors, rear hood hinge caps, lock plate, mirror adjustment knobs and more to come. Some parts can be printed in a range of colors including glow in the dark, wood, fluor, etc

(http://www.rtepas.nl/forum/spiegelmech.jpg)
(http://www.rtepas.nl/forum/achterklep_slot.jpg)
(http://www.rtepas.nl/forum/scharnier_kap.jpg)
(http://www.rtepas.nl/forum/knoppen.jpg)
(http://www.rtepas.nl/forum/ball1.png)
(http://www.rtepas.nl/forum/ball2.jpg)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: JL on July 25, 2017, 09:17:50 am
Great work, well done.

John


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: TELBOY on July 25, 2017, 01:32:05 pm
Fantastic..........I had a look at doing this but the printer was too expensive and not sure I'd be up to the job!!!! Was thinking about switches....in comparison does it work out cheaper? you could be onto a winner.  ;D


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: richard on July 25, 2017, 02:18:07 pm
Yes it is cheaper if you need parts send me a pm. What switches do you mean ?


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: TELBOY on July 25, 2017, 02:59:34 pm
Yes it is cheaper if you need parts send me a pm. What switches do you mean ?
Hi Richard, just going by what owners asked me if I...(when I was breaking one) had, switch bodies, interior light, ashtry, mirror surrounds air vents...and when you've had a lot of practice,,,, would it be possible to do the rear/front lenses? that would need some serious programming. How big is your printer? is it difficult to use the scanner?
Tel


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: richard on July 25, 2017, 05:10:18 pm
Printer build space is 20x20x20. Scanning is something i am still working on. Lenses ? Lamp cover do you mean ? i thinks thats going to be difficult indicators might be possible. On of the things to remember is that the parts are build layer by layer so sometimes parts might need finishing. Interior parts should have better finish than mechanical.  I try one of the parts you mensioned. Printer usage and autocad are not difficult just take youre time to learn and be creative


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: TELBOY on July 30, 2017, 01:24:23 pm
end caps. (left hand rear) note how it has a top piece


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: richard on July 30, 2017, 05:14:37 pm
well i am busy drawing parts, some are not so difficult. End caps (and some other parts) are not going to be exactly the same as original, i will test them on my spare bumpers etc. Change both sides and nobody will see. When i got some samples ready i can send them tou you, just pay me shipping costs. When parts fit i can re-create them. Have to find out what is the best material to use, because it is used in all wheater. ABS should work the best, not sure is parts can be printed with this because of the layout (abs schrinks parts then curl).



Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: TELBOY on July 30, 2017, 09:22:26 pm
This time next year youll be a miwwion air. They look great. Basically anything plastic you can make! I like the interior light. :)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: richard on July 31, 2017, 07:25:56 pm
a 9 hour print  ???

(http://www.rtepas.nl/forum/asbak.jpg)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Jon Weywadt on July 31, 2017, 10:08:06 pm
a 9 hour print  ???

--
If  you could scan and print the plastic cap of the gear shift in the center console, I would be very interested. In dark brown to replace mint that is cracked.
Please let me know if this is possible.
Regards.
Jon


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: richard on August 01, 2017, 06:28:05 am
if the part fits to my buildplate 20x20 cm is should not be a problem. colour would be a bigger challenge. think it is better to spray paint it. i do not have a spare shift cap, so i need exact measures. This autumn / winter i could remove mine till then  i want to drive  :o


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: richard on August 18, 2017, 08:02:47 pm
(http://www.rtepas.nl/forum/fusebox.png)


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: Lennart Sorth on October 08, 2017, 11:18:48 am
This is brilliant !

How strong and/or flexible do you recon the print is ?

I remember from earlier days of 3D printing that this was a problem, and a 3D print was more for checking the CAD drawing before sending it to somebody with a CFC milling machine.

What software and file formats are you using ?  - maybe you could crowdsource the model-building to the rest of us  (even if we're sort of a small crowd) ?

/Lennart


Title: Re: Alternative Parts
Post by: richard on November 08, 2017, 10:09:02 am
This is brilliant !

How strong and/or flexible do you recon the print is ?

I remember from earlier days of 3D printing that this was a problem, and a 3D print was more for checking the CAD drawing before sending it to somebody with a CFC milling machine.

What software and file formats are you using ?  - maybe you could crowdsource the model-building to the rest of us  (even if we're sort of a small crowd) ?

/Lennart

quality, strength and appearance are the things to take into account when creating the 3d prints. Once you draw a part (i use Fusion360) you have to think of what is the use. Is it on the outside (of the car) and visible, or is it behind some panel, but it should be heat resistant. I think parts gonna be strong enough in most cases, because you van choose to make a solid part for strength or a 0  - 99 % to be lightweight or stronger part. Like the endcaps for bumpers they were not strong enough so i added some thickness, and now they are strong.  What wil happen is that part may look a little different from original. Also the printing material that is most easy to make smooth is ABS, because it wil melt when getting in contact with acceton. Other materials may need to be sanded and painted to get them smooth. I do not know how ABS wil hold in UV light, it might loose color. Nice thing about 3d printing is, you could always print a new part. Proces of smooting is also a thing to consider. What exact do you mean by crowdsource the molel building ?