MatraSport Forum

I`m totally new to Matra. I can guarantee that I`ll need help to the maybe most easy things, and I will make my questions here.


On my Murena there is a aftermarket sunroof, I understand this was often put on the cars when they was new. The Idea is not bad, the function I am shure is nice in a hot summerday.

BUT, I would like a more nice sunroof. The Hollandia 300 series, Have someone tryed this on the Murena to replace the first one?

The general feeling, I believe, is that sunroof is a bad idea because they most often leak. I know a couple of members who are looking for original roofs to get rid of their sunroof.
The problem is they are after market installs. With a factory sunroof they most likely have solved the leak problems.

I can see your point.... These non original roofs are not the most beautiful on a classic car like these. I was thinking maybe the Hollandia 300 series would make the design and hole in the roof a little bit more nice to look at.


Another thing I am thinking of...
I am going to Danmark soon to pick up the Murena. I do not know the frezzing point of the coolant, and therefor I want to drain it off before return to Norway (and here it is cold that time a year). I must do this job on the floor, and I have just short time to pick up the car befor I must return to the ferry in Hirtshals.

Can anyone tell me if this is easy and possible. What/where waterlines and places is the best to open and drain radiator, engine and system?. Tools needed?.

regards
FredR

Draining the coolant should be easy. Remove the filler cap on the expansion tank and loosen the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator.

Considering the difficulty in removing all air from a Murena cooling system, you should consider just buying a coolant freeze gauge. T-Hansen, or Biltema, would have it.
Drain enough coolant into a glass and let the gauge float to see what the freezing point is. If it is not ok for the temperatures you expect at the North Pole, or how far north you plan to go  ;), then add antifreeze, drain and measure again. Repeat until you reach the freezing point you want.
Naturally the engine must be run, and be warm enough to open the thermostat after each time in order to mix in the antifreeze. Good luck and make sure your tires are winter rated.

Hi Jon!

Thanks for answer!

Well, the Murena are going to be transported to its new home on a trailer behind my Citroen :). I just want to be shure to get all coolant water out, so nothing can freeze and be damaged. Is it easy to get the radiator drain plug on radiator when car is on the floor? What about the steel water pipes under the car?. And the most easy way to drain the engine?. remember that the car are all the time standing on the wheels/floor. Needed tools I need to do this draining work?.

I wont damage my new baby in the norwegian winter. Actually, in Hamar approx 120 km north of Oslo, where I live, the temperature in January often reaches minus 25 to minus 35 that time a year. I think in 1978 the temp was -43......

:)

Hi In order to get the coolant out of the engine I will disconnect the cooling pipes just in front of the engine. However the car sits so low on the ground that you cannot get access to drain plugs or the cooling pipes without lifting the car. If you are transporting the Murena on a car trailer maybe you can get access when the car is on the trailer. You will only need screwdrivers for the job, or maybe a small socket set depending on the type of hose clamps.

Hans

The easiest way to drain the water off, IMO, is to disconnect the coolant hose to the lower radiator outlet from the pipe under the car :)

Thanks for help!

I am glad I already are a member of the the club and all this positive members! Look forward to get the Murena home, spend lots of money on it, many quality hours and love, and the meet you at Dansk Matra Treff in 2014 when the car is 30 years old.

 :)

Now the car is in my garage. The condition is is much better than I expected. But I want to do some work on it now. The car is 29 years old with only 60500km, so I think that wheelbearings and brakes must be changed, just to be sure they are safe after all these years.


Change all wheel bearings, someone who know SKF number or other supplyer numbers on these on my 2.2S?

 

My Murena has 148000 Km and still has the original bearings, as far as I can tell. I doubt that you need to change bearings after only 60500 Km. Only if you have bearing noise og signs that water or grit has gotten in there, would I consider changing now.
Now Brakes is another thing. If the disks are ok, make sure the calipers are in good shape. I just had mine refurbished by Roy. New brake pads are available from several sources. I tried Green Stuff, because they give off less black dust to dirty the wheels. But I found that they do not grip as well as the Ferodo pads I replaced. I just went back to Ferodo pads. Roy has a list of replacement parts that you can see on his FAQ pages here: http://www.matraclub.org.uk/faq3.html#two (http://www.matraclub.org.uk/faq3.html#two)

Hi Jon!

Well, I can understand you about wheelbearings. There is no sound or any other bug with them. But on all my old cars I have changed them, beacause breakdown on these is worst case senario on the road, then I have a big problem.

So therefor, new bearings :) and brakes.

Have found this numbers  QWB 231    or     BRT 384   but what is the SKF number?

Are these the numbers on the bearing package? and all 4 bearings are the same?


Cheers  :)

"I have had many worries that never amounted to anything"  ;D

I forget who said it, but it is very wise and  tells me only to worry about things that are likely to happen.
Wheel bearings spontaneously breaking down is not one of those things, IMO.  ;)
If you have good bearings now, they are likely to stay that way.

jepp. Don´t fix a problem if there is no problem. I think either that a wheel-bearing will just break down from one minute to the next.

But however, you are old enough to make your own decision. If you have a better feeling and want to bring money into the circulation just change it. You can sleep ( or drive ) better and it is also good for the world-economy. ;-)

Hilsen
Kai

Hi

 :)

Well, I am maybe a little detail crazy, but I like details to be my way ;) A picture of my old 87 alfa, and I want my Murena to look like this too...
(http://d14era0l74ndzf.cloudfront.net/75/14/i32117877._szw530h275_.jpg)


So, are all 4 wheelbearings the same on a S?  QWB 231 or BRT 384 or SKF number? Someone who knows?

 ??? ;D

All 4 bearings are the same.
They go bad seldom.
QWB-231 (QH) and BRT-384 are confirmed by me to fit.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Talbot-Murena-wheel-bearing-kit-1981-1985-Coupe-/271135558303?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AMurena&hash=item3f20f04a9f

Hollandia/Webasto 100 fits.
Look pics here, and no probems with leaking sofar.

http://www.matramania.be/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1526

I have somewhere a pic for 300 but have to look.

Searching..........found :P
This is a Hollandia 300 (old version)
Outside it doesn't look bad.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lV8ZQkKsqBA/UO33W2BZTlI/AAAAAAAACbM/QW5ZRTa__lE/s800/H300-3.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TDSSJcieAE0/UO33QZCNGlI/AAAAAAAACa8/eUghQ_K9U3Q/s798/H300-1.jpg)

The problem is the inside.
The front inside is not flat, and the sun-visors do not fit in the space anymore.
Hollandia 100
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Fy1XyRa4Gk4/T3XLYjQUCCI/AAAAAAAADmA/ph6SbBOZfF0/s800/P1000800.JPG)
Hollandia 300
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wTILOHQ7UWc/UO33S1hPyAI/AAAAAAAACbE/RB9w5NxppZ4/s794/H300-2.jpg)
Blue Murena with Hollandia 300 pics, Godfried Matramania Belgium.

Also the light has to make place and move to te back of the roof.
I don't know if they are available in other sizes that make a better fit.

Greets Herman

THANKS!  ;D


I do have this old sunroof, its ugly, its not original.... On these pictures I think the Hollandia 300 look really nice on the car!

I have been thinking of two posibilitys.

1. Buy a Hollandia 300 and build in.
or
2. Remove old sunroof, make a repair with fiberglass/polyester and remove the complete hole and make roof like original...

Have some of you, or anyone you know, done the remove job?.

Once more, I am very thankful for your answears and help!

 :)

A former club member did, but placed a new roof.
I saved the cut outs to sell with the car when hobby ends.
Not everyone is charmed of this sunroofs.
I think it is very 80s and suits the car nicely.
Also it can be hot in the Murena during summertime becaus of bad ventilation system.
It is nice to take the roof out and that is very simple with the Hollandia 100

Regards Herman

For closing the roof:
1: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Talbot-Matra-Murena-Dachhimmel-Aussen-/190780654977?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item2c6b69c581
2: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Talbot-Matra-Murena-Dachhimmel-Velur-schwarz-Murena-S-84-/190780659059?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item2c6b69d573

Thanks to you all!
 :)

I`ll check this out!

About heat inside the cabin, I can understand that maybe Its best to have he hole in the roof.... But are the hole in my roof the same as the new Hollandia 100? Does any of you with Hollandia 100, have the cut out hole in mm, and also radius of the corners?

Thanks
Fred

I have the Webasto Skytop 101 and that is the same as Hollandia 100.
Best is to mount it as far as possible to the back as seen in my pics.
The front of the roof is more round so stress can make it leak.
This are the sizes of the cut out, but I don't know if it is a standard size.

Regards Herman

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nkAj92WMoWY/UPBqS9u_QyI/AAAAAAAAEF8/1-1Qgs4iXS4/s800/P1050755%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DBy-MslflWA/UPBqVZtzoKI/AAAAAAAAEGE/ubCaBKrqyCU/s800/P1050759%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1wemcR_gw-c/UPBqXLjw77I/AAAAAAAAEGM/TcFqzPf7XwA/s800/P1050761%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Hi!

Thanks, Ill check with the Hollandia dealer about delivery of new roof tomorrow.

Another thing...
Engine oil on 2,2.
On all my old alfa cars I have been using Castrol Racing 10w-60 or Agip Racing 10w-60. Can these be used on the 2,2S too.... Or is there some other oil thats better?

 :)

It's an old car so cheap 15W40 mineral should be fine but I refresh every year or 5000 mile.
I dont use full synthetic bacause I don't know what is do with the seals but I hear that some have no problem with it.

regards Herman

I strongly disagree here. Cheap oil leaves residue in the engine. Replacing it very frequently helps, but it's not worth it. I run Castrol 10w60 and replace it every year.
Seals will not have problems with this.

/Anders

Nice point for discussion.
I also disagree that the Castrol leaves no residu.
It is more the way older engines work with fuel that residu is left behind.
Put a Murena on LPG and almost no residu is found after a bunch of miles.
Why take a risk with full synthetic if you are not sure?
I know for some older type seals and rubber can't handle full synthetic, and desintegrate after a while.
Don't do this for example on a old Suzuki.
The seal on the fuel pump desintegrate and you loose all oil.
Of course it is also a personal matter of choice and SAE grade varie a bit with climate  , but the engines in our cars are developed for mineral oil, and I see no reason why not to use it.
Also the mineral oil is so much better then 30 years ago.
Keep it fresh and clean by changing it on time and it will be fine.

Regards Herman.

I cannot recommend enough Millers Motor Oil CSS 20w50 semi-synthetic engine oil for older engines.

http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=269&sector=Motorsport#

An extra high performance engine oil based on highest quality performance additives and shear stable viscosity improvers in synthetic and mineral base.

I do not change the oil every year as I do not do that much mileage, but I do extemely abuse the 2.2 engine and never had any problems.

I once even had a set of inlet rocker arms (no oilway hole) fitted for exhaust rocker arms (should have an oilway hole) by mistake and had no problems.

GP

This is an old and well renowned web site on engine oil: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Engine oil goes black over time and with use and I find it very likely that this does not happen with GPL (I don't have any experience with GPL fuelled cars). However, the black stuff in the oil is NOT residue - or sludge, as it's called on the web page above. An important difference between mineral and synthetic oils is that the latter will not produce sludge.

My Murena 2.2 engine has been running solely but fully synthetic oil now for about 15 years since being rebuilt by Roy. It is not suffering from any leaks - apart from what you'd expect from a french engine design from the 1960's.

/Anders

GPL is named LPG in the Netherlands so no spelling mistake this time ::)
I drove more then 700.000 miles on LPG/GPL in 5 different cars and you would be suprised how clean mineral oil is after 10.000 miles.
It looks like it was just done recently.
Of course the normal metal particles of the engine are there, so refreshing in time is still needed, but if you drain the oil it looks like new.
It is logical that Graham uses High performance semi synthetic because he ask performance from the car.
But why doesn't Miller make full synthetic for older cars?
Exactly...., for the reasons I spoke about above.
I concern full synthetic as a risk.
Then go for the semi synthetic like Graham if you want that.
I see no need in a normal used car.

Regards Herman

Have a rear brake calipper that is not too good.

Have newer been working on these. How to get pads out without destroying anything? :)

There is a tutorial from Roy Gilliaard somewhere on this forum where everything is described.
The link is dead. https://www.icloud.com/mobileme/not_found/

Don't you have a workshop manual?

Hi Oetker!

Workshop manual, not yet.  :(

Have just jumped into the Matra world you know  ;D and I llove it. The manuals, are they to find in english and german, or only german?

Have made a list of parts needed, but not got time to ordered them yet, also manual and I think that is german.


Have checked up the cooling system and engine, was afraid of some defective things here, but I have been lucky, the car seems to be in really good condition. Only thing that do not work good is the right rear calipper. The car have only been running 60500 km and the engine have a beautiful crispy sound with original exhaust muffler. But is it original 4 - 1 system on the car? On my is it 4 outlets tubes and 4 tubes that goes down to a horisontal 1 tube system before original muffler........



 

Try this page:

http://www.matraclub.org.uk/pdf/Brakes.pdf

I also have a 4-1 exhaust system on my car. If I know well it is not original. There should be a 4-2 iron cast collector and a 2-1 collector tube. In a new set of gaskets you could find the gasket what is not used in our cars.

Anders or Roy wrote me earlier, that the original iron cast gets cracked very often, maybe that is the reason of the common replacement.

Dear all of you. :)

Thanks Klumzer!. Have been looking at the link you posted, Its great! But it say nothing about pad rempoval. I want to start with that, clean and greae all up, and see how it work.

Am I completly stupid  ;D  
Have been looking at the rear calipper on my car. There is a frame bolted to the trailing arm. On this frame there is a calipper fitted, and this calipper cover the brakepads. Do I have to rempove all completly to get the pads out?... Or is it a way I dont understand to get the pads free, easily.

 ;) ;D

The calibre is fixed to the trailing arm with (a bracket and) two bolts. Remove the two bolts hand the calibre can be removed. Unscrew the brake hose if you want the calibre up on your workshop table.

Hans

You may want to make yourself this handy tool to screw the brake pistons back, in order to make room for new pads.

It is basically just a lump of steel fitting into the grove on the piston and brazed to a hex nut. the screw and washer holds it into a rachet wrench. With this you can quickly screw the piston back in.

 :)

That tool was nice, thanks!

But to change brakepads, is it really nessesary to remove the complete calipper from the trailing arm?

The pads are held in place by a metal wedge on top and bottom and a spring clip. The wedge is prevented from sliding out by a piece of it bent up in one end and a small pin or clip at the other. If you pull out this clip you can slide the wedges out and I believe it is then possible to get the pads out. I don't think I have tried that myself, but you may be in luck. :D
Give it a try.

I've just replaced all of the pads on my car and did three without removing the caliper from the vehicle.

Only removed one due to damaged bleed nipple.

Slide out the metal wedges, gave them all a good clean with an angle grinder, wire brushed the calipers and banjo nuts then it all went back together with a bit of grease.

Pistons can also be would in with a long thick pair of pliers, I found.

Roy's book is excellent for this and he makes the note of getting the springs and pins in the right way. Most of mine were upside down and someone had fitted rear pads to the front!

It's not a hard job, just need another set of hands for bleeding.

Today I received  a new workshop manual, rear brake service parts and new set of brakelines nylon/stainless type from Simon. Next week I am going to Herning to work there at the camper exhibision, and after that, my brakes rear are going to be cleaned and work well again.
:)

Alfared:
Have a look at my post for pictures, and call me if you have any questions.  ;)

Been at your thread now, and I could see the function of the different parts.

Have you brougt new calippers rear? or ...

nope, cleaned, sandblasted and painted with Biltema Caliper Paint 50/50 gold/silver.

Did buy the same paint some days ago from Biltema. :) Thanks!!

Today I did remove trailing arms and driveshafts, no problems, and all work was done in less than one hour. The car has low milage and the easy work today did maybe confirm that. No trouble, everything was almost to easy to remove. I will, clean, glassblast the calippers and paint. The disc will be sandblasted and painted, the trailing arm will be sandblasted outside and inside and painted with a extra Owatrol oil treatment inside. New wheelbearings mounted. Bushings no need to be replaced.

Have also removed the old Velm sunroof, and fitted the new Webasto/Hollandia sunroof and this was much better.

This was a nice holyday with beautiful weather and also some quality time in garage.

 :)

Have this afternoon been sandblasting trailing arms and some small parts.
I have the last 30 years had much nice old cars that I have restorde a bit. And always found lots more trouble than I was expecting. On this Murena its opposite, the car is much better than I thougt....
The trailing arms was not so beautiful to look at from beginning. After the work today this afternoon, outside and inside(did make a 12 mm hole in the bottom) and also gave them some sand and compressed air inside, they was without any rust damage. Now I have cleaned them totally and are going to give them 3 layers of Owatrol, 2 layers of mix 50/50% Owatrol/Arcanol and at last 3 layers of Arcanol outside, Inside only owatrol blown inside with ompressed air.


(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/001-1_zpsc8321a65.jpg)

Here I am almost finished with the left side.

Today I did take apart most of the rear calippers. Also here I am lucky. Have no problems with the job. All parts almost "fall" of when I am working. A little corrosion on the steel parts. The alloy housing of calipper was easy to remove from the steel frame. Have sand blasted all steel parts, and painted them with calipper paint. The aluminium housing I just wash inside and outside, and also the parking brake system, and add new grease inside. Everything is in good condition and need no repair, just some cleaning and new painton steel parts. 

Lookin for new wheels... Front 7 x 15 and Rear  8 x 15. ET25. Have been searching Gotti, Compomotive and Revolution. And since I had Revolution on my cars in the 80`s I do really like these.
Someone who have seen a Murena with something like this?

And would the size an ET be correct?

(http://www.tyresave.co.uk/alloypix/big/revo5spk.jpg)

Looking sweet,

They are pretty close to my rims, which I seriously think are the most beautiful I've seen on a murena  ;D (thank you Jos - the guy I bought the car+rims from)

(http://www.natkat.dk/matramurena/assets/v6_01.JPG)

(http://www.natkat.dk/matramurena/assets/v6_02.JPG)

Mine are ATS. I like the balance between the matt alu, and black, and the very sharp edges making them perfect 80's rims. (in my opinion)  8)

from the net: http://www.pacificie-tuning.com/images/product_images/info_images/ATS/ATS-Classic.jpg (http://www.pacificie-tuning.com/images/product_images/info_images/ATS/ATS-Classic.jpg)

Best, Jesper

Hi Alfafred

Not sure what everyone else thinks but I would not run 7 inch rims on the front of a mid engined car, it will be more prone to aquaplaning and you will find that the car will move around on road undulations and markings. I would tend to favour 6 inch max.

Regards
John

WOW....

Have been searching the ATS classic, but cant find them to the Murena! Thats whay I did search revolution

What dimensions on your wheels, ET and tyre sizes? AND where to buy.....


 ;D ;D ;D ;D

Yes those rims look very nice on the car, esspecialy in combination with the car color and lowered suspension

If someone can tell more about the ATS wheels, please do so....


Have received from Carjoy some parts. Brake parts, have also from Delticom got my new 14" set of Toyo wheels. 4 New SKF wheel bearings are also in house. So hopefully I have time to put the left side rear, back on car in a week or two.

 :)

I have to disagree strongly here, but I'm not getting at you particularly Herman, as this is a popular misconception repeated often.

Cheap oil will give cheap results and is not as good for any engine as good synthetic oil.  I have also seen this statement about synthetic oil and seals BUT never once seen any proof to back up the claim.  Show me some categorical test results showing the synthetic oil to have been detrimental, and I might believe there have been some problems, but what I can tell you from personal experience is that I have used semi- and full-synthetic oils in engines range from modern to pre-war with no problems.  Yes, we are using synthetic oil in a 1936 Standard 10 that I have helped restore (doing most of the mechanical and electrical work) and the 'new' seals or gaskets are in fact many years old even though never used before.  This engine and gearbox have no leaks or oil problems.  I have run my Murena from new on full synthetic oil and the condition of the parts are like new.

The great advantage with synthetic oils is they are fluid when cold, as they don't go thicker (due to the waxy elements of normal oils) so they protect during the critical cold/warm up phase.  This is when wear generally takes place.   Normal oils also have lighter elements which get burnt off or evaporate leaving an oil which gets thicker with age.  That is why they need periodic replacement.  Synthetic does not have this problem.  That is why synthetic can be left in much longer.  Do you realise that trucks can have oil change intervals of 100,000 kms if using full synthetic oil?  And modern cars often have a 2 year or 30,000 kms interval providing they are using synthetic oil.  You would never leave a mineral oil in for longer than 10,000 kms or one year.  Many cars used to have even half that interval with normal oil and for good reason.

So if your engine or gearbox has major oil leaks, or burns lots of oil, then you need to correct those faults, otherwise you are wasting valuable oil as well as polluting the environment... and wasting synthetic oil is more costly than mineral oil obviously.  But that is about the only reason now to use a mineral oil.

Roy

Good to see you raise your voice on the subject of oil quality, which you know a lot about, Roy. True, it's just a technical subject, so we're not getting at anyone, just sharing the facts :)

Anders

I completely agree with Roy. That old cars "can do" with cheap oil is a myth. Good quality oil wont break down when heated and turn into tar inside your oil galleries , but will keep your engine clean, and has friction reducing additives that will prevent wear on components from the time you start up and until the oil film has formed. I think people are mistaken about this because new synthetic oils are often "thinner" than old mineral oils. 

Did today remove from the gearbox/diff the housing (4 bolts) and simmering to the left driveshaft. And out did it fall a 5-6mm shim with a split. Are this split going to be placed over the hole that drain oil back in the gearbox?...

??

Anyone...:)

Picture please because I don't know exactly what you mean.

Regards Herman

Jesper,

What size are those ATS rims? Looks like 14" t me?

Martijn

Here is some pictues.

I have changed the oil seal at drivshaft outlet. In the bottom of picture 1 in the housing, there is a oil return hole.

(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/Fred%20Roger%20Johansen%20album/alfafred%20Matra%20Murena/abd22a4e-53cd-4ded-8f0f-717649d54ce1_zps48ad6bbe.jpg)

I have also this spacer ring with a cutout, are thiscutout going to be plased over this oil return hole, to secure that oil flow free back into gearbox?

(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/Fred%20Roger%20Johansen%20album/alfafred%20Matra%20Murena/91f8e924-6fef-4ab7-888d-67bd01fab185_zpsfd74af85.jpg)

Have now finished a service on the brakes. Taken all parts of. Glass blasted all of them. Painted, new rubbers, new pads and new handbrake cable, and flushed the system with lots of brakefluid. Now I can push the car easily on the floor again.

The original alloy wheels are now getting stripped and new silver paint baked on, the new Toyo tires in original dimension are waiting in the garage.

Next:
What is the best gear oil to be used on the 2,2S?

I have always used Mobil synthetic transmission oil 75W/90.  It is more expensive but if you use a synthetic transmission oil it will make gear changes easier and smoother even when cold.  It will protect better, and last longer.  In fact I have not changed mine since and it is still good.  A mineral oil should be changed every 30,000 km.

Roy

Thanks!

A high quality Synt. 75W-90. As you say, I buy Mobil synth. or maybe The Castrol Syntrax 75w 90. I know them both as the best products to my old Alfa Romeo`s, and I guss that the matra gear will love them too and give me the best protection.

 :)

Did today get back my original alloys to my S. Glassblasted, powder coated paint + clear powder paint at last. They are fantastic now.

(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/016_zps7231411f.jpg)

Today i have had some nice hours im my Murena on the road. It feels really nice. I can like this, I think.
 ;D

Excellent news and you have some beautiful roads in Norway to enjoy.

As an aside I once had a year working in Oslo/Asker and 6 months in Bergen and took my car over with me from the U.K. 
Highlight for me though was probably the 10 laps of the Lyngås Rallycross track one quiet sunday afternoon in my Puegeot 406 until the farmer locked me in!  ::)

Picture of the car, with the original wheels and new Toyo proxes.

(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/028_zps75c436b1.jpg)

(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/030_zps6988237b.jpg)

Last friday my murena was at Statens vegvesen, the place that confirm ID and condition of car, and the car was all fine, and the car has become Norwegian. So next week I`ll pick up the new norwegian number plates....

 ;D

5. of may was a special day. My Murena did get the first time registration in Norway, and Norwegian numberplates. So now it will be driven in beautiful sunny days.

(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/001_zpsiu3mpsz7.jpg)

Great job. Congratulations and enjoy your drives out.

Oh and would that be a cheeky H2 in the background.

3 x Cylinders and 3 x Seats a cracking pair to have in your garage!

Unfortunately I have recently sold my 1974 H1E.  :'(

Hey...  ;D

The car are pretty nice.

You have some eyes for details. Yes there is a H1B. Have done som fine work on engine, total rebuild, wiseco, wesrah rods +++ look at alfafred.net for lots of pictures.
I have broght a carb tuning kit from usa, expensive but my god how the engine work from idle to 11000, perfect all the way. The sound is made by Higgspeed. Engine oil tank filled with castrol Racing synthetic 2 strok oil mixed with Shell V-power... Love it....

 ;D

Well I had a look at alfafred.net and I highly recommend others on the forum have a peek.

Your eye for detail, finish and engineering abilities are really amazing.

Is the house next door for sale?

I think I will emigrate to Norway

Cheers,

Graham

Oh and I was discussing the idea with Finna our Norwegian Forest Cat and she quite likes the idea too!  ;D   

Det har jeg, krise, kjøper gjerne felgene av deg for en symbolsk sum 😆

Per E

Just had to try one for the Ronald A1 this morning. And classic ATS 7x15 I could not find, but then This one is just what I wanted.

(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/20150923_090837_zpswcl0zclu.jpg)
(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/20150923_091345_zpstkkv1qdr.jpg)

I think it was a nice little upgrade. Ronald A1 7x15 ET25, 205/50 rear and 195/50 front.(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/alfafred/20150925_174441_zpsdpvfkzoz.jpg)

Here is a link to EB spears who have this wheels, it is a copy, but completly similar!
http://www.ebspares.co.uk/parts/EB8/EB8115.cfm (http://www.ebspares.co.uk/parts/EB8/EB8115.cfm)