MatraSport Forum

Anyone who know if I can use a regular EGR solenoid to the light lifting mechanism on my Murena?

I think my original solenoid is leeking.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-200SX-Sentra-Maxima-Pickup-Vacuum-Solenoid-Valve-VSV-K5T46583-AESA123-28-/161137473727?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25848ab8bf&vxp=mtr#ht_1198wt_749

Unfortunately I can not answer your question.
But it is easy to check the original solenoid if it has a leakage between the housing sections. Then you can repair it with a sealant or a thin gasket. If it has an internal leakage a cleaning may solve the problem.

When I repaired my solenoid, I had internal leakage. One of the valves inside was open continuously. I had to calibrate the position of the electromagnet with shims.

I had a leakage problem too. Had to adjust the piston and the brackett that stops it from extending too far out of the housing.
But also, the whole valve is assembled with self-tapping screws that crack the nylon housing. I modified that by drilling holes all the way through and replacing the screws with long 3 mm bolts that now clamp the parts together snugly. No more leaks in the valve.

I discovered that the solenoid leaked when the lights were closed so I opened the solenoid and cleaned it, but it still leaks at the opposite end of the solenoid valve.
I examined the parts thoroughly when I had it open, but the rubber seems soft and nice without damage.
Does anyone have an opinion on why it leaks when lights are closed?

klumzer wrote:
"When I repaired my solenoid, I had internal leakage. One of the valves inside was open continuously. I had to calibrate the position of the electromagnet with shims."

How did you use shims for the electromagnet klumzer?

The upper connection of the solenoid goes to the vacuum system, and the lower connections to the actuator. One side of the actuator is connected to the vacuum system and the other side is connected to the ambience (athmosphere) regarding the position of the valve pistons. If you turn on the lights, the piston of the electromagnet moves and operates the valve pistons. Each valve piston closes the connection at one side and opens the other side. Then the connections are reversed, the actuator moves and lifts up the lights.
If the piston in the electromagnet is not calibrated correctly, one of the valve is open at both sides. Then your vacuum system is connected to the ambience and you realise it as leakage (what I mentioned as intenal leakage).
If you use shim or shims (normal washers with different thickness, diameter 10mm) between the magnet and the valve housing, you can calibrate the movement and the position of the piston.
Remove the solenoid from the car, and test it. If you blow into the upper connection you must not feel the pressure at both lower outlets, always at one side only. If you operate the magnet, you have to feel the pressure at the other outlet and not at the first. If you found that you have pressure at both outlets and the valves do not have any damage inside, your problem can be solved with shims. First it is enough to turn the magnet just to see how the valves work better.
The outlet (lower connection) -where you do not feel the pressure when you blow into the upper connection- is connected to the ambience at normal operation. If you blow into that lower connection you have to realise the air at the end of the solenoid (marked "connection to ambience" in the photo).

I hope I could help you...


P.S.: Note that the valve pistons are not symmetric (one end is longer than the other- you can see it in the photo). It does matter how you install them!

Thanks for all your help guys, and a special thanks to you klumzer, for the great explanation of the valve!

I still can not get the valve to close completely and I have ordered a new one from Simon.
Do not understand completely what the reason is, rubber parts look undamaged. Is there any agent that can be used in rubber to clean / soften it up?

It is advised not to use any lubricant in the solenoid, only some talcum powder. I found it in another topic on the forum.

Hopefully the new solenoid will solve the problem. Good luck!

It is when the solenoid has no power that the valve does not seal. Does it help to push the disk that holds the spring in place and thus more powerful spring pressure on the valve?

If the position of the electromagnet is not calibrated correctly, the piston can be to long and prevent the valve pistons closing corretcly. In this case you need some shims to make the piston "shorter". Then the spring can push the valve piston against the rubber.
You should also check the bracket, maybe you nedd to bend it a bit...

Leakage is present only before the light solenoid is activated,  when the lights are opened  it does not leak.

Has still a leak after I installed the new valve. When the solenoid is not activated, it is leaking through the port on the end of the vacuum valve, and it looks like the vacuum goes through the actuator
Could it be the actuator that is faulty? And is it possible to repair this?
Does anyone have a drawing of the parts in the actuator?

When I got my car, the actuator was unserviceable. I had to change the seal. The actuator was disassembled, metal parts were regalvanised and now it looks as a new one.
If the membrane is ok inside you do not need to disassemble it, I think. You can check it easily. Connect compressed air (use low pressure) to one of the connections and check for leaks. If you have leakage at the other connection, your membrane is not ok. You can also have leakage between the to parts of the housing. There is a seal at the piston rod it can leak also...

In this topic you can find some photos:

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,2242.0.html

If you can't find I have 2 reserve laying around in good condition.
I thing they were fitted in Bagheera as wel.

Herman

Thank you Oetker! But I have already purchased and installed a new actuator which I bought in France from Politecnic, this works fine and looks nice, but has a terribly bad paint!

  http://www.politecnic.com/mateclairage.htm

If you are there, replace the plastic ball joints for nice priced metal.
They tend to break.
They also fit the gearthingy's

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320802834366?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TjDU3QIK00A/UkAEjA78BVI/AAAAAAAADy4/GhSDwWhv1Cg/s800/P1060499%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG)

Herman

Herman

Hello Herman.

What purpose do you have for the second link on the gear shifter arm? (the one on the middle of the arm)

Regards.
Jon

Jon: I think this is a shorted and modified gearshift.

It is another experiment to make shifting shorter.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lMXOB7QR9iM/UmqD992yI4I/AAAAAAAAD14/FC85TeAQY0s/s800/SA000215%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c2THermKiSY/UmqD9TFfjfI/AAAAAAAAD1o/wJdo4rY7KLY/s800/SA000214%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG)

Its mounted on the chassis here (experimental).
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SCbSbruILm0/UmqD3z6MOUI/AAAAAAAADz0/gwzyIM5ziK8/s800/P1060498%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG)

It needs a rubber for vibrations on chassis and I noticed that shifting to 2nd/4th the lever comes a bit near to the seat.
I can use that for thr 5th.
It's always a bit far away for me and if I make the chassis mount a bit more to the front it wil come closer in 1-3-5 gear.
Also shifting is shorter.
This is on my 1.6 because my 2.2 has the graham way, but maybe I chhange that to.
It's less stress on the material.
My 2.2its like this now.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pFyNcemktSQ/T3WcT0hPiAI/AAAAAAAADjI/iaM4bUPJaVg/s800/P1020080.JPG)

Herman

I have a similar bracket around the shifter pipe. There was too much flex in the pipe for precise shifting.
I have a set of control cables for an outboard motor. They are stiff enough that I plan to use for a cable shifting system, like you find in Hondas. I have seen it in this forum, but I don't think it was on a stock Murena engine.
Anyway, that is a planned modification.  ;D

I wrote this some years ago, it is still correct :)
http://dinsen.net/murena/gearshift/

Hermans invention could be useful, since it will fix the rod in the pivot point transversally, but a good rule is always to check all other parts before you make improvements :)

/Anders

It's not my invention.
It was on the Murena from Jean Piere Beltoise.

It is true that if all points are without play the shifting is not bad but still a bit to much.
Also if chassis make contact somewhere in the rod system you will here that.
Especial when the car stands still noises are heard and it is possible you hear a slight vibration on the stick.
Therefore I think somewhere some rubber has to be placed to prevent that.
My 2.2 shift is very short but I have to use some force to put it in 5th.
The system in my 1.6 is less short shifting but it feels more natural.
I think both cars wil have the modification with the extra rod.
Maybe I can place this on the chassis to prevent vibration.
(http://www.demulder-rubber.be/Catalogus/TechRub/Trildemper_B.jpg)

Herman

Make sure it has a low Shore value in the "A" scale. Lower numbers are softer. Too hard and it will not dampen the vibrations much.

No one should do this to the Murena long gearchange rod.  That rod does not rotate about its axis.  It has to swing sideways as the attachment at the base of the gear lever moves from side to side as you go across the gate.  By restricting the long rod with a clamp like this, it can only put a strain on the system as it cannot move in the designed way.  This type of clamp would be fine if the long rod rotated on its axis but it does not.

Roy

Indeed, its a bit tight as I said.
I'm still playing with it.
So far this feels best.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0CpT67vxTgk/Ut9gQP2HDiI/AAAAAAAAExU/Mo2TuzEKCMA/s640/modgear.jpg)

I'm also busy with this.
Another weak point with lots of play.
{Note: don't know if it fits Murena!!!!!!!!}
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MODIFIED-GEARBOX-COLLAR-TALBOT-EXPRESS-DUCATO-C25-Gear-Linkage-Gear-box-/141152888568?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lTkH7Uwuz2s/Ut9iPqp812I/AAAAAAAAExk/z82kF2FU4HU/s293/sleeved_collar_montage.jpg)

The bush in the collar is a bit short.
Therefore it's getting oval.
This modification will help a lot.

Herman