MatraSport Forum

I have just removed the left rear fender of my murena to fix some waterleaks.

The question is, Wich glue should I use to glue it back in?

I will also reglue my roof and the front windshield 8)

Lars Bjørdal

The modern automotive window glue should work AFAIK (the black silicone stuff), but let's hear it from the experts!

I have found two products i think might work

butyl 37
Terostat-2759

Does anyone know if these are sutable for the murena?

BUMP,  :)

Hmm... interest was quite low in this subject...  ::)

Any experience would be appreciated concerning how to remove the roof and the rear fender and how to install them again.

LarsB, which adhesive was better?

 

This is the best adhesive that I have used.

http://www.hex.co.uk/tds/upol/tigerseal.pdf

Regards
John

Thanks. I will look for it or a similar one.

Is it difficult to remove the rear fender? Is there any trick to avoid damages to glass-fibre parts?

The front part of the car does not look so complicated to disassemble but the rear...  :-\

Removing the rear fenders is a difficult, time consuming and cumbersome job if the glue is in good condition. However heating the glue with an electric heat will make the glue soft and will make the work easier.
In order to remove the roof you need to remove the front wind screen. Removing the front wind screen includes a risk of breaking the wind screen.
Hans

Hmm... it won't be easy...

Thanks.

Quote
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butyl 37
Terostat-2759

Does anyone know if these are sutable for the murena?
============================================
No, best is to look for a PU glue-kit. (polyurethane)

I ended up removing windshield (broke during disassembly)  Removing the roof and both rear windows and fenders. 

As Hans is saying, it is time consuming and frustrating work.  Heat does help.

When putting the fenders back in place, I used a combination of non setting butyl sealant, and in some other areas polyrutan glue. 

You do not want to use windshield mounting glue. you want to use a weak glue,  there are large bonding areas and rivets. Absolutely no need for strong adhesive, just makes life terrible when it has to be redone :P

Oh and remember to put back in the plastic sheeting inside the fenders,  you wont be able to seal the boot without  :( 

Lars

I have my roof panel off at the moment to replace it, so the advice on using U-Pol Tigerseal is  appreciated.

Can anyone reccomend a product for sticking the black flexible plastic trim that runs either side from the base of the windscreen and up and over to the rear of the car?

I have bought double sided foam tapes from automotive shops in the past but they have not been too successful!

Thanks in advance,

GP

Hi Graham

I have used Tigerseal on the roof and double sided tape on the trim; the roof is straightforward enough you just need to give all parts a good clean with a degreasing thinner. The plastic trim needs all remnants of the old adhesive removing again using thinners or another solvent, I then stuck the double sided tape to the trim taking care not to stretch the tape, the screen and shell were cleaned with a degreasing thinner and the trim applied. Once the trim was applied to the edge of the screen there was a gap between the trim/screen and the bodyshell, I masked along the trim and the bodyshell and filled the gap with Tigerseal to get rid of the water trap also where the trim goes over the roof panel you can mask off and apply Tigerseal as a filler and adhesive - when the masking is removed you do not notice the filled gaps.

Hope this helps.

Regards
John

Hi John,

Thanks for the prompt reply and information.

I did not use a degreasing thinner so that is why the tape kept lifting then.  :-[

F.Y.I. After many years of track excursions into Armco, Road Cones, Electric Fences and Earth Banks I finally ran out of space for stickers to cover up the bodywork damage, so the car is currently in a bodyshop for a full respray.
I took all the panels off (except the rear wings), as the body shop said it would be cheaper and I would get a better job. I had loosened the roof panel by drilling out all the rivets and breaking the glue quite easily. but employed a windscreen fitter to take the windscreen out successfully, which was a relief.
There was actually a lot of rust on the front scuttle under the winscreen so this is all being treated and repainted also.

I hope to get the car/pieces back this week in it's new darker Chrysler "retro" silver colour I chose after the original Matra Silver didn't work out too well. They reckon it will look like an Aston Martin!  :D

I intend to refit all the panels with M5/M4 rivnuts fitted to the chassis and large dome headed aluminium Pro Bolts for ease of replacement.

Regards,

Graham

Hi Graham

The rust on the front scuttle is all too common! I also removed all panels with the exception of the roof and rear wings, it was less soul destroying dealing with the individual parts rather than the whole vehicle and easier to spray.
I attached the  front wings with large headed rivets in the end but I did consider plastic rivets as they are very easy to remove. Cleanliness is most important with trim adhesives and it also help if everything is warm with no risk of condensation etc at this time of the year

Regards
John

I've used this product http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-interior-trim-tools/double-sided-tape.html and found it very effective provided that everythingt is cleaned and de-greased properly.

Hello John, [and Pete]

How many 310ml cartridges of Tigerseal do I need to buy for refixing the roof panel?

Thanks,

Graham

P.S. A few pictures for interest.

Hi Graham

Assuming you can get away with using a 6mm diameter bead of seal you should only need 1 tube, therefore I would buy 2! If you only use part of a tube make a completely airtight seal and the tube should last for a while.

Good Luck

Regards
John

One more question John,

Did you bother usuing rivets on the roof panel when you refitted it, or is the Tigerseal glue sufficient on it's own?

Thanks,

Graham

I did use rivets, just in case! they also help locate the panel.

Regards
John

The roof panel and all the other bits are back home now. I've had the roof panel arial hole filled in as I have no radio or speakers in the car. Pick up the car tomorrow and get started glueing and putting the car back together a.s.a.p.

The paintwork was delayed as having 80% of the car done I was not very happy with the paint density. :'(  I then changed the colour from the original Matra Silver to a Chrysler Bright Platinum MET 2CT CHR.MS4 PPG, which is slightly darker and more upmarket looking. Plus people might not have even noticed I'd gone to the trouble of a respray!

GP

Nice! The car will look good.

Hopefully mine can go to the painter in May...

B.T.W. What kind of pop rivets will you use for the roof? Countersunk or normal ones?

I will let you know what I end up using. Not sure yet?

For ease of fitting and removal of the other panels I will be using rivnuts on the chassis parts with M5 16mm dia. domed head silver aluminium bolts from a firm called Pro Bolt in the UK.

Rubber Well Rawlnuts will be used on the fibre glass parts and a similar bolt. I used rivnuts on the front bumber previously but all the fibre glass cracked.

See links below for further clarity:

http://www.pro-bolt.com/index.php/aluminium/aluminium-bolts-dome-head/alloy-dome-head-bolt-m5-x-0-8mm-x-16mm-pk-x-10-silver.html

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NUTSERTS-RIVNUTS-TOOL-KIT-/370295451513?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item5637542f79

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130591107458?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

GP

Bad news for me...
I want to use rivnuts on the front bumper for the cover of the spotlights, but it seems I have to think it over.

And the car is back home now via a famous Scottish Restaurant!  ;D

GP

Nice colour. I like it!

The Mc food is not my favorite, but the car looks nice.
Still a lot of work left to build it up.
New engine, new paint, good for the next 15 years?

Countersunk aluminium 3.2mm dia. x 10mm length and use a backing washer inside. Panel holes 3.2mm and chassis holes 4mm for a bit of extra tolerance.

GP

Waterproof!!!!

http://marinemechanic.com/site/page207.html

That is a good idea that had not occured to me.  ::)

Too late now but I will now seal the holes before I put the plastic trim on.

GP

Waterproof!!!!

http://marinemechanic.com/site/page207.html
[/quote]

I used similar rives at the back of the spotlight housing.

Countersunk aluminium 3.2mm dia. x 10mm length and use a backing washer inside. Panel holes 3.2mm and chassis holes 4mm for a bit of extra tolerance.

GP
[/quote]

Thanks GP. I bought the same size. But the holes on the chassis are also about 3.2mm on my car... no problem, because after repair works we have to drill and countersunk the holes again on the roof panel so probably it will fit perfectly.

B.T.W. When can we see some photos of your new 'Aston Martin'?  ;)

Oh O.K. then here a a few top secret sneak preview shots then ;)

Note the paint sparkle on the petrol filler cap shot in particular!  :o

GP

Thanks. Very nice!

Hi GP,

I did not want to off your other topic so I put my question here.
Did you have any difficulty with the body panel installation? You mentioned that you used large headed bolts and rubber nut inserts...