MatraSport Forum

Hi

I am slowly repairing my 2.2 project and at present trying to change the bottom balljoints. Do they unscrew anticlockwise as normal or the other way? ( I ask as the tie rod ends are clockwise to unscrew). I am presently hammering them to try to unscrew them....
Thanks
Ian

The ball-joints are normal thread.

Thanks for confirming

They can be very difficult indeed to unscrew.  Give them a good soaking in penetrating oil.  If you are tempted to use heat beware.  My local garage proprietor tells the story of the time he was changing the balljoint on a Horizon.  He was applying heat when the joint exploded and propelled the swivel through the ceiling with considerable force.

And here is a dedicated pronged socket tool on e-Bay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-Ball-Joint-Removal-Socket-49mm-ID-58mm-OD-/181113132758?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a2b2f16d6

Ahh, interesting tool. Is this the right size for a matra?
I have managed to undo the ns balljoint now after lots of hammering and some grinding. Thanks for the help
Ian

Yes this is the right Matra specific tool. 1/2" sq Drive ID 49 mm - OD 58mm

Do follow the instructions closely by clamping the tool on with the existing nut otherwise the prongs will bend:

The procedure for the use of this socket is outlined below:

Remove the nut from the ball joint, fit socket over the joint locating lugs into the recesses. Replace the nut and tighten to lock the tool onto the joint. Unscrew the ball joint using a socket or spanner on the remover. Fit the replacement by reversing the procedure.

I bought the same tool a week ago. Mine is a bit too tight to fit around a Murena balljoint (the diameter is almost 51mm in the recesses) but should fit after a bit if filing.

I would not use it to undo a rusty balljoint though: I doubt it would be strong enough. It should come handy to tighten the new one in though!

JL.

I've actually had to cut off the ball rod with an angle grinder and then weld a flat iron on top of the balljoints to get enough force to loosen it!
 This was on a Peugeot ..... which have the same type of balljoints.

 This is an opportunity if you do not get it loose otherwise.

That was my plan b if i had no joy at all unscrewing it through the hammer method!

I took it compleet of the car and hacmmerd it out on the workbench after a little heatng.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nDxDYZgSF1s/VE_ie-e1S7I/AAAAAAAAFdU/Ig5YgVkYW94/s800/P1070678%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Herman

Both sides now done and front suspension all replaced- new tie rod ends, top and bottom balljoints , arb links and bushes, new shockers and a derust and lick of paint. Calipers cleaned up and inspected for use.
Lots of copper grease used!
Ian

The front is ready now  for the next 25 years to come ;D
At least you are sure it's save

(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j172/doctor924/matra4_zpsb10d5dcf.jpg)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j172/doctor924/matra3_zps1d53a22b.jpg)

Suspension rebuilt both sides.

Front of car awaiting repairs to the headlight mechanism

(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j172/doctor924/matra2_zpsc1ff229a.jpg)s

Cheer

But I'm afraid you have built part of it incorrectly!

The two rubbers should be one either side of the arm and wishbone, not touching one another!

Roy

Cheers roy. Easy fix.
Ian

Yes, indeed, it should look like this.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sL7LJrIax_M/VFPJqFl8cCI/AAAAAAAAFks/pkFAYq4JQ94/s800/P1070747%2520%2528Custom%2529.JPG)

Some suppliers of parts send rubbers you need to cut trough half before mounting.
(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b565/yooztgig/stabi_zps3066bcb8.jpg)

Herman