Hello, my Murena ist showing his femine side and being bitchy. The Bowden cable for the tailgate has insufficient tension on the right-hand lock. As a result, I am unable to open the tailgate.
How can I raise the tension slightly from the outside to access the adjustment? Remove the belt, remove the B-pillar trim, or is there a better approach?

Not much to update as of right now as the engine block is still away for machining.

However, I have been working on figuring out the intake side of the engine. I have decided to use Weber 50 DCO/SP's. On the photo mounted on a Meeus manifold, but I would like to investigate if I can use a Sodemo manifold.

Dustring off again, 11 years later

MATRA SPORTS, La puissance et la gloire

A documentary in two parts by Fabrice Maze from 1996.

These two films are absolutely "must see's" for everyone interested in the amazing story of Matra Sports from the early F3 cars in 1964 over the F1 championship to the final victory at Le Mans in 1974. It has great interviews with all the great men of the project and period footage, and an amazing soundtrack.

Be prepared to spend an evening or two watching these films!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myYUWi5e3no

Just wanted to share some notes on progress lately, also for my own records.

I have completed cleaning and refitting the two brakcets for the bonnet support rod
Fitted the air filter box on the engine
Fitted the battery with the new brackets
Heater fan refitted with cover
Cleaned up some surfaces with zinga and linseed oil
Sprayed the left side beam inside with linseed oil
Fitted the left one of my new plastic inner fenders

I am working on some glass fiber repairs and has started with the small job of fixing a broken off piece of the side skirt.

Also, I'm in the process of cleaning up the connecting piece between the right front fender and the chassis part in front of the heater fan cover.

Edit: Added some pictures of the resurrected bonnet support rod brackets, surface rust treatment, and the making of my plywood template for the front wheel inner fenders.

I've agreed with Herman to split the topic to separate out his maintenance thread on the 34CIC, but there's a bug in the forum software which means I can't do it, so that will be later.

When I bought the car in 2007  they just fitted the Citroen version at the local dealer.
...

I realized, I haven't shared a block diagram of what I'm doing, so I drew one up this morning. A friend suggested that this is a distributor advance curve tester, and yes, that's exactly what it is, and since it's measuring actual data on the engine, it can be used also for a few other things.

You're also getting a picture of my set up last weekend when I finally got data out of it.

It's still work-in-progress to ensure it works perfect, but that's part of the fun now

/Anders

Just wanted to share some data I got out of my ignition advance timer this weekend as I had it connected via a serial port to a laptop.  The data is processed in Excel.

The distributor is an unmodified Bosch distributor for the standard 2.2 engine. It looks like the distributor has two separate curves, but this is due the the inertia in the internal mechanics. The my engine has a well lightened flywheel so it spins up (and down) real fast.

I have identified a problem with the advance data stopping being calculated at rev's above about 3500, so I'm currently looking into that issue. I need to do some more signal measurements on the car.

Also, my device seems to miscalculate the advance on higher revs, so I have had to filter out some extreme values which are clearly incorrect in excel. More or less as I expected when I started designing this circuit, which needs to be sensitive to signals and robust to noise at the same time. There's a balance I still need to strike.

Also, because of my lightened flywheel, there is really too little metal to detect, but I'm going to try to see if I can get it to work all the way up to the rev limit of the engine.

EDIT: At least this gives a clear indication of the advance curve of the distributor!

I like the idea about building up foam in layers. I might also do that eventually, but for now, I'll convert back to the original foam.

I have to say though that the mould used for this one is really well made as the foam fits perfectly on the frame. Also the foam has the features needed to fit the fabric. Only the top softer layer is missing in that respect, but that is specific for the buttoned fabric.

One has to make a few cuts to pass through stuff that holds the fabric stretched out on the foam and attached to the frame, but that's it.

So if only they had used less firm foam, it would have been close to perfect.

Yep, that's the plan. I have a spare set of seats so I can work on making new seats whilst still driving around 😂

Whilst I have not yet refurbished my Murena seats, I have made new bases for my Lotus Elan +2 seats. I did not use manufactured seat foam, instead I purchased foam and formed the bases individually.

Foam can be purchased in varying density, I used a firmer foam for the side bolsters and softer for the seat, the foam can be built up in layers to get the rough shape  - I just used a spray contact adhesive for this. Once I had the rough shape I then  trimmed further with a sharp carving knife, finishing off with a sanding disc in an angle grinder - this bit is best done outside as it is a pretty dusty operation.

Making the seat foams does not take a great deal of time and is also not expensive!

You can also use foam to repair/improve your existing seats if the bases are not too crusty.

Cheers
John