Thanks for sharing, that's exactly what I don't want if I refurbish my seats and the driver's seat definitely has seen better times. I was eying this foam but was also playing with the thought of cutting my own which is now probably going to be my choice.

As part of my restoration project, I've fitted a set of the new seat foams available on the market. The old ones were getting dusty and I thought it would be a good idea to update to new foam. I'm quite unhappy with the result, though.

While the thickness is identical to the original, the foam is much firmer, and in fact so high that I no longer feel that I fit in the seat. My head hits the roof and I need to recline the seat to a position, which is no longer comfortable. Also, because of the firmness, I do not feel that the sides give much support any more. It simply feels like I'm sitting on top of the seat, not in it.

Another issue, which is specific to the buttoned interior fabric I have, is that the original foam has an additional even softer layer on top which allows the grey button fabric to shape itself around the buttons. Without this additional softer layer, the fabric sits flat on the seat and it will never look good.

The foam is good quality, in fact, my sister is a chemist and used to work with memory foam production, and she said both the castings and the quality is good. I feel the problem is simply that they have chosen a far too firm type of foam for the Murena.

I'll be going back to the original foam, but I'm wondering what are other people's experiences with these remanufactured foams?

Attached picture shows the foam installed on my drivers seat.

I'm seeing some strange glitches, e.g. after posting, all posts show as 'new', but overall everything works! Great work!

I am also seeing these glitches like Anders, and I also note the section on the first page, which used to list the latest posting, is missing. I always found that useful as a quick check to see if there were any new listings in any of the categories, since I last visited. It is possible you just dropped it, but is it possible to have that facility back?

I realise the amount of work involved especially after all this time since the original was set up and perfected, but great job Lennart, and thank you.

Roy

ah! - I just managed to reproduce that - after a post, all posts are labelled "new" - but if I do a SHIFT-Reload, they are all read again ...  weird.  Surely come cookiemonster.

Lets see how it changes when I take the plunge to the new server and SMF version 2.1.6 ...

/L

out of interest (be it 6 years late for this thread :-) ) - I *frequently* see people replace their UK number-plates while on the Eurotunnel Shuttle. For whatever reason, but I wouldn;t be surprised if Roy's theory holds.
/L

After a closer look at the test report and the rear of my car it appears to have been specifically the left one that's not in the picture which was not reflecting enough light. Looking at it I do see something that appears to be mould inside the reflector square. I reckon he stuck a sticker on both sides to balance it out. In theory he could also have stuck it on top of the old one though... 😅 They do look like they can be changed separately but I wouldn't be surprised if it's just part of the production process.

Thanks for the woofer picture. I must admit that I lack the knowledge of how speakers work to understand what reflex ports and airtight panels mean in this context. It looks like the speakers in mine were originally mounted near the feet and I don't see an air escape hole. If anything I suspect that the doors leak much more. But then again I don't know if that's where the speakers were originally supposed to be fitted either. I do know that I need to create a backplate for the new ones to attach to as the muppet who put the door speakers in has cut the holes so large even the originals barely had material for the screws to go in and my current ones hang on by two screws 😢.
They sound like they lack bass as well. Maybe it's because they aren't attached well though so a backplate might fix that. I mostly bought them for the looks.

Great, we have a "post" button again!!

Edit: Yes, I still see that issue...

I'm seeing some strange glitches, e.g. after posting, all posts show as 'new', but overall everything works! Great work!

Do you still see that problem ?

At some point through this upgrade I changed the static part of the name for the cookies - I guess if you posted over that time the 'missing' cookie may have caused that.

I have in the meantime found the missing labels for the Post/Save buttons 


/L

Stopping the hobby because of age, a well maintained and slightly modified 1.6
In deperate need of a paintjob.
Ready to drive home wherever you liv

On marketplace Netherlands.

https://www.marktplaats.nl/v/auto-s/overige-auto-s/m2323441868-matra-talbot-murena-1-6-1981-rat-zwart-op-sommige-plaatsen

When I bought the car in 2007  they just fitted the Citroen version at the local dealer.
This carb was a bad choice because out of specs.
The car drove with dips in several rpm and I always had to drive it with choke on to get some drive-ability.
The original was gone else  so I bought a second hand CIC Talbot but was badly warned and CO and acceleration jet where damaged.
I drilled the CO on a another point (Like the Citroen one) carefully not to danage other tunneling.
I replaced the axels because of leaking using material from Lada Carbs.
The carb was also bend so the sec valve did no fit good to produce the vacuum, and it was out of line for the progression holes.
I made the foot of the carb flat and produced a valve for the second hole from a bigger valve (Lada) and made it fit in the sec so it closed in the right angle to make it work again.
In experiments I made the 127.5 jet also 135.
The car runned a bit rich but no more holes in acceleration and top speed was possible without problems.
It took a lot of time but it was also a learning curve.












I know for sure that the original carb is the best way to go for the car but getting the setup right took me lots of time.