I have now had an email from Thierry Grandsire, and he has provided a link to a company dbilas in Germany offering Murena 2.2 camshaft re-profiling at just 197 Euros plus postage.  I have not contacted them, but for those in Europe this may be a much better alternative to having the work done at Piper Cams, and hopefully in a much shorter timeframe too!  Check out:

https://dbilas.com/Produktuebersicht/?properties=297efa7d0b204f7b893a05847b9f08be

And you will see 4 re-grind profiles listed: Road 29.041.001U, Sport 29.041.003U, Rally 29.041.002U, and Race 29.041.004U but although it says the fast road profile does not need any changes to the engine, I believe that may not be entirely true as the amount of cam lift (8mm) will be too much for the standard valve springs, which will coil bind as they are too close together for that much compression.  Otherwise that fast road profile looks to be even slightly better than the Holbay Tornado cam.

Thank you Thierry for sharing this information.

Roy

I've been cleaning up and reorganizing things in my garage this week, and that turned out to be a slightly bigger project than expected, but the result is good. I now have my parts well organized in boxes. The car returned to the garage by its own power, but it could not make it out as my gear shift linkage turned out to be incorrectly adjusted with 5th and reverse being out of reach. The area behind the garage slopes downward so we just pushed the car out. I've been paranoid about brakes before doing this, but they're perfect, the handbrake as well with the new cable sourced by Roy with grease nipples works perfectly 

I've offered my son space for a gokart or two in the garage. They will sit on cross beams above the Murena. It's a tight fit, but his budget is also tight so I have stepped in and reorganized things to help him, and it was a good opportunity to work together 

I'm getting the body panels ready for repair. I'm working on fixing an old go-kart seat before starting on the panels. That's my practice piece of epoxy work before I start working on the panels. My wife has accepted that the roof of the shed/workshop in the back of our garden is now decorated 

Just out of couriosity, I’ve been keeping a list of cam data for the Murena 2.2 engine. Recently I discussed with Youri from this forum that it would be a good idea to share them here. I’ll be updating this list if I receive corrections or details on performance or engine configurations, so please send it to me. Please feel free to use the thread to discuss and share stories about the cams and engine configurations.

Type	Lift (mm)	Timing	LCA inlet exhaust	Periods inlet exhaust	Overlap	Timing lift	Clearance inlet exhaust (mm)	Engine configuration
Stock	6.5	19°12'/56°48' 54°48'/13°12'	108° 110°	256° 248°	32°24'	TBD	0.2 0.3	Bosch distributor and single Solex carburettor.
K142	7.4	27°/72° 69°30'/29°30'	112°50' 110°	279° 279°	56°30'	TBD	0.2 0.3	Murena S, twin Solex ADDHE 40, Ducellier distributor, stock cylinder head.
Politecnic Maxiroute	7.75	30°/86° 78°/42°	118° 108°	296° 300°	72°	TBD	TBD	TBD
Holbay Tornado 58C	7.06	39°/77° 79°/37°	109° 111°	296° 296°	76°	TBD	0.25 0.3	Fastroad cam with stock head, carburettor, and distributor
Danielson K230	7.45	21°/77° 85°/24°	118° 120°50'	278° 289°	45°	TBD	TBD	Turbo
JRD No 1	7.0	34°/71° 68°/32°	106°	285° 280°	66°	0.5	0.25 0.30	Designed for a racing class defined by Simca with Chrysler 2L engine and Lola or Chevron chassis
JRD No 10	TBD	31°/62° 58°/35°	105.5° 101.5°	273° 273°	66°	0.5	TBD	For rally
Condrillier	7.5	35°/85° 85°/35°	115°	300° 300°	70°	TBD	TBD	Designed by Condrillier as a fast road camshaft
Piper 3777	8.3	46˚/72˚ 74˚/44˚ (estimated)	109 111	298˚ 298˚	88˚	10 thou = 0.25mm	0.25 0.30	TBD

Notes:

Lift is measured on the cam. Rocker arms multiply this by a ratio and the clearance is subtracted from that number to get the lift the engine sees at the valves.

Timing lift is the lift (on cam) by which the periods are measured.

Unless there’s an adjustable cam sprocket installed in the engine, cam timing is fixed.

Timing angles are specified as: Inlet opening BTDC; inlet closing ATDC; exhaust opening BBDC; exhaust closing ABDC.


Some definitions:

LCA: Lobe Centreline Angle
TDC: Top Dead Center, piston at the highest point
BDC: Bottom Center, piston at lowest point
BTDC: Before Top Center, i.e. while piston rising
ATDC: After Top Center, i.e. while piston lowering
BBDC: Before Bottom Center, i.e while piston lowering
ABDC: After Bottom Center, i.e. while piston risinng


Acknowledgements:

Thanks to Youri Nieuwenhuizen for actually measuring and verifying the data on the K142, Danielson, JRD and Condrillier cams, and for calculating LCA's
Thanks to Roy Gillard for supplying me data on Holbay, K142, Stock, and Piper 3777 cams.

UPDATE

Disappointingly, I have had a further email from Piper that now tells me that they are unlikely to be able to carry out this work of re-profiling our camshafts until about 6 months after they have received the cams from us, and put them into their machining workload!  They won't simply place a work order in a queue until they have received them.  This means you would loose your cams for around at least six months, so if you were considering having your only camshaft that is in your engine currently, modified, the engine would have to be stripped and out of action for over 6 months.  To me this is unacceptable, and I am looking to see if anyone else can do this work much more quickly.

If you have a spare camshaft that you don't mind waiting to have modified, let me know, otherwise wait to hear from me before you do anything further.

Roy

 ? ? ?  When did you get a Baggy ?

Do you want a 1.6 as i built one for mine with juicy bits and have never fitted it

I have a 2.0 l EW 10J4  engine being removed from a Bagheera, it runs but is over fueling! Comes complete with gearbox all ancillaries custom built fuel tank, custom built exhaust, and the driveshafts If anybody would like it contact me. Would need to collect.
Reverting to original engine!

Hello, could you  inform me about Tail Glass lifter technical specifications?
I need to change old no name lifters to new. I can find a lot of, but vendor ask me about specifications:
- lenght (Open, Closed)
- power (KG or Nm)  (the glass about 16 kg) - The pressure must be 210 Newton
See attached Picture.
Or
if you hqve an original, could you make a photo of specification on spring?
Thanks a lot.

Note for all Murena owners.

The way the gas struts for the rear glass carry the electric current for the heater rear window is that the centre chrome part of the strut is connected to a metallic piston inside the larger black cylinder of the strut, with metal ring seals just like an engine piston ring and seals. (except much smaller obviously!)  These ring seals transfer the electrical contact to the inside of the metal cylinder of the gas strut, and from there via the electrical tag to the H.R.W. element.  At the base the electrical wire from the loom connects to the lower part of the strut BUT the positive side (on the right) must be insulated from the chassis otherwise you get a direct short to earth.  So the pivot at that end must be plastic and not metallic!  There was a period when struts were being supplied with a metallic pivot at that end - DO NOT try to connect the H.R.W. supply on the right if you have a strut with a metallic pivot that side.  The left side strut bottom pivot can be metallic as that is going to earth anyway.

In the U.K. I get the stuts re-gassed and unless the seals are totally shot, they are as good as new.  The pressure must be 210 Newtons, no more otherwise the glass will shoot up and slam against the top stop and eventually something will get damaged.  I have seen struts with 220N and 240N and they are no good, but even if that is what they were originally (probably meant for another car, not the Murena) you can ask for them to be repressurised to 210N and remarked.  In fact the company that do mine, mark them with the pressure and the date the work was done.  They actually retain them 24 hours after re-gassing to check if they are holding pressure.

The cost is much less than new struts even if you can get new ones!

One tip, I always remove the pivots and electrical tags from both ends, before I give the struts to the company for re-gassing as they don't need them, and if they don't have them they can't loose or damage them!  They easily unscrew off and back on.  I simply refit them upon return.  Also if the contact seems poor or none at all, try rotating the chrome strut so the piston rings inside rotate to get a better contact.

Roy

The Talbot NOS ones should be much better, AFIK. The root of the problem is likely that that the softeners they used in the rubber in the old days were better, but are now banned.

I bought the same ones. Unfortunately, they feel very hard even when new. Let's see how long they last.