Just wanted to share some data I got out of my ignition advance timer this weekend as I had it connected via a serial port to a laptop.  The data is processed in Excel.

The distributor is an unmodified Bosch distributor for the standard 2.2 engine. It looks like the distributor has two separate curves, but this is due the the inertia in the internal mechanics. The my engine has a well lightened flywheel so it spins up (and down) real fast.

I have identified a problem with the advance data stopping being calculated at rev's above about 3500, so I'm currently looking into that issue. I need to do some more signal measurements on the car.

Also, my device seems to miscalculate the advance on higher revs, so I have had to filter out some extreme values which are clearly incorrect in excel. More or less as I expected when I started designing this circuit, which needs to be sensitive to signals and robust to noise at the same time. There's a balance I still need to strike.

Also, because of my lightened flywheel, there is really too little metal to detect, but I'm going to try to see if I can get it to work all the way up to the rev limit of the engine.

EDIT: At least this gives a clear indication of the advance curve of the distributor!

I like the idea about building up foam in layers. I might also do that eventually, but for now, I'll convert back to the original foam.

I have to say though that the mould used for this one is really well made as the foam fits perfectly on the frame. Also the foam has the features needed to fit the fabric. Only the top softer layer is missing in that respect, but that is specific for the buttoned fabric.

One has to make a few cuts to pass through stuff that holds the fabric stretched out on the foam and attached to the frame, but that's it.

So if only they had used less firm foam, it would have been close to perfect.

Yep, that's the plan. I have a spare set of seats so I can work on making new seats whilst still driving around 😂

Whilst I have not yet refurbished my Murena seats, I have made new bases for my Lotus Elan +2 seats. I did not use manufactured seat foam, instead I purchased foam and formed the bases individually.

Foam can be purchased in varying density, I used a firmer foam for the side bolsters and softer for the seat, the foam can be built up in layers to get the rough shape  - I just used a spray contact adhesive for this. Once I had the rough shape I then  trimmed further with a sharp carving knife, finishing off with a sanding disc in an angle grinder - this bit is best done outside as it is a pretty dusty operation.

Making the seat foams does not take a great deal of time and is also not expensive!

You can also use foam to repair/improve your existing seats if the bases are not too crusty.

Cheers
John

Thanks for sharing, that's exactly what I don't want if I refurbish my seats and the driver's seat definitely has seen better times. I was eying this foam but was also playing with the thought of cutting my own which is now probably going to be my choice.

As part of my restoration project, I've fitted a set of the new seat foams available on the market. The old ones were getting dusty and I thought it would be a good idea to update to new foam. I'm quite unhappy with the result, though.

While the thickness is identical to the original, the foam is much firmer, and in fact so high that I no longer feel that I fit in the seat. My head hits the roof and I need to recline the seat to a position, which is no longer comfortable. Also, because of the firmness, I do not feel that the sides give much support any more. It simply feels like I'm sitting on top of the seat, not in it.

Another issue, which is specific to the buttoned interior fabric I have, is that the original foam has an additional even softer layer on top which allows the grey button fabric to shape itself around the buttons. Without this additional softer layer, the fabric sits flat on the seat and it will never look good.

The foam is good quality, in fact, my sister is a chemist and used to work with memory foam production, and she said both the castings and the quality is good. I feel the problem is simply that they have chosen a far too firm type of foam for the Murena.

I'll be going back to the original foam, but I'm wondering what are other people's experiences with these remanufactured foams?

Attached picture shows the foam installed on my drivers seat.

I'm seeing some strange glitches, e.g. after posting, all posts show as 'new', but overall everything works! Great work!

I am also seeing these glitches like Anders, and I also note the section on the first page, which used to list the latest posting, is missing. I always found that useful as a quick check to see if there were any new listings in any of the categories, since I last visited. It is possible you just dropped it, but is it possible to have that facility back?

I realise the amount of work involved especially after all this time since the original was set up and perfected, but great job Lennart, and thank you.

Roy

ah! - I just managed to reproduce that - after a post, all posts are labelled "new" - but if I do a SHIFT-Reload, they are all read again ...  weird.  Surely come cookiemonster.

Lets see how it changes when I take the plunge to the new server and SMF version 2.1.6 ...

/L

out of interest (be it 6 years late for this thread :-) ) - I *frequently* see people replace their UK number-plates while on the Eurotunnel Shuttle. For whatever reason, but I wouldn;t be surprised if Roy's theory holds.
/L

After a closer look at the test report and the rear of my car it appears to have been specifically the left one that's not in the picture which was not reflecting enough light. Looking at it I do see something that appears to be mould inside the reflector square. I reckon he stuck a sticker on both sides to balance it out. In theory he could also have stuck it on top of the old one though... 😅 They do look like they can be changed separately but I wouldn't be surprised if it's just part of the production process.

Thanks for the woofer picture. I must admit that I lack the knowledge of how speakers work to understand what reflex ports and airtight panels mean in this context. It looks like the speakers in mine were originally mounted near the feet and I don't see an air escape hole. If anything I suspect that the doors leak much more. But then again I don't know if that's where the speakers were originally supposed to be fitted either. I do know that I need to create a backplate for the new ones to attach to as the muppet who put the door speakers in has cut the holes so large even the originals barely had material for the screws to go in and my current ones hang on by two screws 😢.
They sound like they lack bass as well. Maybe it's because they aren't attached well though so a backplate might fix that. I mostly bought them for the looks.