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31
on: April 16, 2025, 07:17:41 am
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Started by Anders Dinsen - Last post by Anders Dinsen | ||
A practical problem when not having 230V in my garage is to generate compressed air for my brake bleeder but I got this small 12V powered pump last year, and it works well. I bled the brakes yesterday so now the car is more or less ready to move in and out of the garage under its own power. I just need to finish adjusting the hand brake and rebuild the drivers seat. Four out of five springs underneath the foam were broken. I'm getting new ones hopefully next week from a local furniture craftsman.
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32
on: April 08, 2025, 04:54:10 pm
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Started by DX702682 - Last post by Matraman | ||
I got one recently from Matramagic in the UK which fitted perfectly to the original arms on my Murena
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33
on: April 03, 2025, 07:39:54 pm
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Started by DX702682 - Last post by AlanMurena1.6UK | ||
I had the same issue. I ordered 2 and when they arrived they looked the same as the originals, but were a bit too tight. In the end, and with no other option, I filed down the ends of the arms a little. The alternative would have been to try and force them on, which could mean they would be more likely to snap in the future.
I've made a note to change them again in 5 years, even if the current ones are OK – preventative maintenance! |
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34
on: April 03, 2025, 09:12:45 am
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Started by DX702682 - Last post by Gib | ||
They are LHD MK 1 Ka wiper arms only RHD is the wrong orientation. I looked for some MK 1 Ka's in scrap yards around Rotterdam back in 2018ish and they had already all rusted away so you will be lucky to find one now.
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35
on: April 02, 2025, 10:31:16 pm
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Started by DX702682 - Last post by Oetker | ||
Those clips are very breakable.
Some are for renault and don't fit exactly. costed me a window in the past.. The Ford Ka older type fits on the joints. Then you have the hooked fit for the wipers, so you can mount wipers to your like. LHD Ka, don't now about RHD ![]() On Murena This is also interesting. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005007176284527.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.420.796879d2751uMG&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld |
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36
on: April 02, 2025, 06:11:39 am
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Started by DX702682 - Last post by Anders Dinsen | ||
Is this the plastic thing sitting at the end of the wiper arm? I don't recall seeing anyone with the same problem. What does Simon have to say to your problem. It looks like there are two different width of wiper arms.
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37
on: March 30, 2025, 04:30:53 pm
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Started by DX702682 - Last post by DX702682 | ||
Hi everybody, one of my wiper adaptors snapped the other day. I got replacement parts from Simon but the hole size was smaller and my wiper arms did not fit. Does anybody have a solution? Where I may be able to obtain equivalent parts, whether there are other wiper blade that fit Murena's wiper arms, etc. This wiper arm seems called the bayonet type, and cross sectional profile is approx. 9.0 mm x 3.3. mm, whereas a common bayonet seems 7 mm wide. Please help me, it is going to rain tomorrow here... Hisashi
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38
on: March 28, 2025, 08:02:51 am
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Started by philping - Last post by Henk | ||
Thanks for the input guys.
Thanks to this site I am aware of the order of the rocker arms. These were mounted in the right order. I removed and cleaned them and I will put them in back in the correct way. The rocker arm of the worn lobe was also damaged. This was not as bad as the lobe and it could be salvaged by a light regrinding, hardening and polishing. The other arms will be regrind also. All valves are cleaned and polished, and the springs are alle fine. I also refurbished the waterpump, again with help to the info on this site. But I found this cilinder head wasn't original. The upper engine mount mounting points are welded on, so it's probably from a Tagora or 180. The head of the 2nd motor however is original. This one is also been totally refurbished (as above) and is as new. Further the oil has been removed, engine and pump cleaned and new oilfilter mounted. I found no pieces of metal in the old oil. Hopefully the filter caught the particles. I will change the oil and filter after a few rides, to be sure. The cam itself is now at a specialist who will be welding the worn lobe, than regrind it to the Holbay specs and give it a hardening treatment. I expect to have it back in a week or 2. Can't wait to put it in the car. |
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39
on: March 26, 2025, 11:43:29 pm
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Started by roy4matra - Last post by Oetker | ||
Sorry that this topic got out of hand.
So my last thing of it defending my statement about the the Simca shocks. Simon/Carjoy did sell them for Bagheera as wel as the Murena. I was also sceptical about it for the same reasons as you. So to proof it I bought a set from Carjoy for around 150 Euro (overpriced but I wanted to know). The Monroe R3227 arrived and I looked them up in Tecdoc carbible. They are for Simca 1100. Carjoy didn't mention this. In a pic above you see me with weights, clock time to go up and down, to compare them to the originals. I was suprised that they measured not far of from thee originals. In fact the originals after 40 years measured harder in my case. I mounted them on 4 Murena's and we all agreed roadhandling was fine. Carjoy sold a bunch of them, I never heard anything bad about it. I am not here to criticise the experts, in fact I learned from your FAQ as wel and I know you put a lot of effort in it. I only ventilate my opinion and results of my experimental things with shocks. This sets for Simca 1100 are still to find for a few euro's from several brands. Of course the originals can be overhauled but pricewise this is not bad. The Spax G695 are realy good. You can adjust force ( 28 clicks), and adjust the height. I still daily drive my 1.6 with the Koni fronts for 1100 and Spax since 2013 and I like the setup. Herman |
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40
on: March 24, 2025, 02:42:01 pm
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Started by philping - Last post by roy4matra | ||
I've send the cam to the machineshop last week for regrinding it to the Holbay specs. I noticed one of the camlobes is badly worn, as is clearly shown in the picture. Only one, the others are fine. How is that possible... First thing Henk, have you removed all the rocker arms and kept them in order so you know exactly which position they came from? Have you checked that all the exhaust rocker arms are the ones with oil holes on the underside as this lubricates the system on that side? The inlet rocker arms don't, or should not, have an oil hole on their underside. They have oil fed from the rocker shaft internally. Having both sides correct is very important. Over 90% of all the engines I have stripped, with cam wear on various lobes, have been previously rebuilt by someone who did not keep them in the correct place and there were arms with oil holes on the inlet side and some without on the exhaust side! With that amount of wear even on only one lobe and rocker arm - and that rocker arm will be bad and should be replaced too as I doubt it can be refurbished, but if they do manage, it will certainly need the case hardening to be redone. I have seen this so many times and it shows how many people overhauling engines don't really know how! Also with that amount of wear, all the material that has come off will have circulated with the oil and you need to check everything for wear now. Particularly the oil pump, and all bearings on the crankshaft, as well as totally cleaning out the oil system to get rid of the abrasive oil and metal swarf mix. As JL has already said, I would be surprised if they can recover that cam because of the amount of wear on that one lobe, but if they have rebuilt it up and reground it, they must have also redone the case hardening. Make sure they have done that to all the lobes. But you must not rebuild this now without refurbishing all the rocker arm pads. You do not use worn rocker arms against a newly reground cam, because it will not last if you do. I know at least two owners that did that and the cams were shot in less than 10,000 km. Roy |
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