I can find a lot of old talk about this but nothing recent. 
Are there any alternative to Simon at ~15Euro for a kit of seals.

Yes, it drives great. Minor issues, but these are solved one by one.

Great to hear!

The engine idles somewhere around 750/800 rpm. Needs a bit of warming up, but once once warm it runs very good. Shifting is getting better and better, due to replacing the last weared parts. The electric fuel pump is making some buzzing noise, I have to sort that out also. Maybe a build in one in the tank.

I am using a Hüco membrane pump. It's very quiet. There are other, better quality pumps on the market, which are also quiet. Let me know if you want info on my installation.

I just recived some new parts for the ignition project. If i'm not mistaken this ecu doesn't need a cam sensor. It's an old Bosch L-Jetronic, as used on the Peugeot 2.2 GTI. The crank sensor is no problem, that's mounted allready. But even this is not in the wiring schedule. I belive it's working with the pulses of the ignition. I have to figure all of this out. Nice winter job!

The crank sensor mounted on the engine will not work as it is an open coil with ferrite core only. Proper cam sensors includes a permanent magnet to create a magnetic field which induces a current as the two cutouts in the flywheel pass by. The sensor was installed on the 2.2 engines to facilitate some unknown diagnostic equipment and perhaps used in the factory to set up the engines. I have designed and built a unit that uses it (I will post a description of it here on the forum soon), but it took a lot of work and a bit of trickery to get the sensor to produce a signal. In any case, that sensor will only be suitable for diagnostic purposes with special equipment. 

So I'm certain your Bosch ECU will not be able to use that. However, I think you might be able to use the distributor pickup if you lock the distributor advance. I'm guessing here based on some info I just googled up, so I may be wrong about that part...

Yes, it drives great. Minor issues, but these are solved one by one.

The engine idles somewhere around 750/800 rpm. Needs a bit of warming up, but once once warm it runs very good. Shifting is getting better and better, due to replacing the last weared parts. The electric fuel pump is making some buzzing noise, I have to sort that out also. Maybe a build in one in the tank.

I just recived some new parts for the ignition project. If i'm not mistaken this ecu doesn't need a cam sensor. It's an old Bosch L-Jetronic, as used on the Peugeot 2.2 GTI. The crank sensor is no problem, that's mounted allready. But even this is not in the wiring schedule. I belive it's working with the pulses of the ignition. I have to figure all of this out. Nice winter job!

Thanks again for the informations. I found an old 10 mm T-piece in our workshop's stock. The memory and headlight control fit immediately, and to connect to the check valve, I inserted a narrower hose into the existing one (i.e. adapted it), and now everything is working as it should again. It's a shame that the detour was necessary.

Hello Roy, thank you for your explanation. Unfortunately, the old T-piece could not be removed intact and its size could only be guessed at. Now, based on your measurements, I can confirm that the replacement part from Simon is too thick on both narrow sides and too narrow on the thick part. That's a shame, I'll have to look on eBay/Amazon etc. For the 10 mm pieces, can I also use vacuum lines with an inner diameter of 10 mm, or will that not be airtight?
Best regards,
Andreas

Here is the T-Piece at AFS:
https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/10mm--13mm--10mm-reducing-t-piece-white-plastic-hose-joiner-barbed-connector-3-way-tee-bar-2307-p.asp

Ignore the photo which is a stock photo, as it looks like the two straight across ends are larger than the centre one, but the title and description shows it to be a larger centre connection 'reducing' to the size of the outputs.

Or here is one on eBay UK:
eBay item number 326584220799

somewhat dearer though!

Sorry that eBay URL link made the page far too wide.  I've changed it to the item number now, so search for that instead.

The original rubber hoses or connecting pieces fit perfectly.  I have used one of these AFS ones for some years on one of my cars.

Roy

Hello Roy, thank you for your explanation. Unfortunately, the old T-piece could not be removed intact and its size could only be guessed at. Now, based on your measurements, I can confirm that the replacement part from Simon is too thick on both narrow sides and too narrow on the thick part. That's a shame, I'll have to look on eBay/Amazon etc. For the 10 mm pieces, can I also use vacuum lines with an inner diameter of 10 mm, or will that not be airtight?
Best regards,
Andreas

That sounds like they have the T-Piece sizes the wrong way around!  Maybe the one they supplied was 13mm/10mm/13mm when it should have been 10mm/13mm/10mm.

The voice of an experienced mechanic understanding the nature of root causes! Thanks Roy for being so active around here

Once the carburettor was running properly and the tension on the throttle cable was correct again, I had to tackle the vacuum supply. The T-piece (split supply vacuum control and vacuum tank) was brittle. So I ordered a new part from my usual dealer.
However, the diameter of the connections to the front and to the tank is much larger, but the connection to the check valve is much slimmer...

That sounds like they have the T-Piece sizes the wrong way around!  Maybe the one they supplied was 13mm/10mm/13mm when it should have been 10mm/13mm/10mm.

So I carefully applied some silicone grease to the old vacuum lines on the T-piece and Teflon tape on the other side towards the check valve, and sealed it with a clamp.
It worked. I took it for a test drive and on the way back it started to run unevenly at idle speed. I got out and heard a loud hissing sound.
The vacuum hose couldn't withstand the increased tension and ruptured.
Now I'm considering whether to replace just that one or all of them. At the dealer, a 40 cm piece costs €10. That adds up to quite a few pieces and will probably only be available by the metre. But what is the correct designation for the right metre goods?

Many thanks for any advice.

The T-piece that has a fastening to the bulkhead, 0032602000, and has one hose to the vacuum storage tank, the opposite one to the white vacuum valve at the front of the car, and the third centre connection goes to the one way valve that is connected to the inlet manifold, has connection sizes 10mm/13mm/10mm.  The 13mm connection has a short hose to the one way valve, which is the same item as the brake servo one way valve, 0030581600.

If you simply purchase a standard 10/13/10 T-Piece which can be bought for under £5, you can fasten it to the bulkhead with a cable tie.  The original T-Piece fastening often breaks off anyway and has to be fastened that way in my experience.  A 10/13/10mm T-Piece can easily be found on the internet or from AFS (Advanced Fluid Solutions) or on eBay, or Mercedes used to have one available which I have the part number for, if you can't find another.

Roy

Once the carburettor was running properly and the tension on the throttle cable was correct again, I had to tackle the vacuum supply. The T-piece (split supply vacuum control and vacuum tank) was brittle. So I ordered a new part from my usual dealer.
However, the diameter of the connections to the front and to the tank is much larger, but the connection to the check valve is much slimmer... So I carefully applied some silicone grease to the old vacuum lines on the T-piece and Teflon tape on the other side towards the check valve, and sealed it with a clamp.
It worked. I took it for a test drive and on the way back it started to run unevenly at idle speed. I got out and heard a loud hissing sound.
The vacuum hose couldn't withstand the increased tension and ruptured.
Now I'm considering whether to replace just that one or all of them. At the dealer, a 40 cm piece costs €10. That adds up to quite a few pieces and will probably only be available by the metre. But what is the correct designation for the right metre goods?

Many thanks for any advice.

Getting on the road is great. Problems show up, but I'm glad to hear your's solving it. I'm still working on getting to that point.

10 degrees on the standard cam makes sense. The period is short and there's little overlap on that cam so the fuel mixture in idle is good. You're probably running 800'ish idle? I have mine at 15 with the Holbay cam, which makes for a decent idle at 1100. It's huting a bit, but that's probably due to the high overlap on the cam and my cylinder head - it most likely short circuits a bit of fuel out the exhaust during idle. I have an AFR meter with a wide band oxygen sensor in the exhaust so I know the mixture is correct now.

I considered fuel injection years back. Most ECU's come with some sort of ignition controller and eliminate the distributor as they run wasted spark configurations with two coils. From an engine management perspective, that's a better system. They usually, however, depend on both a crank sensor and a cam sensor, so there's a bit of work involved and it will be completely custom. I'm not going that route, but staying with the sidedraught carbs. There's more performance to be gained by working on the airflow in the head, especially enlarging the inlet valve seat inner diameter. About the original distributors, in principle they can be tuned to do anything by replacing springs with other springs, but it requires a complete rebuild every time you want to try something different. The original Bosch has an advance curve that suits the original cam only (and vacuum takeoff from the original Solex carb). I have used it on my Holbay cam, but it will never be perfect, so I'm going to change eventually so that I can tune it to the cam and head.

/Anders