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 31 
 on: November 09, 2018, 09:43:55 am 
Started by sc1962 - Last post by roy4matra
hi guys, i'm thinking about changing the shocks on my 1.6 murena.would anyone know if the original  factory fitted shock absorbers that were fitted front and rear were the same as the simca 1100 and the horizon, alpine solara etc Huh

thanks in advance

steve

I doubt the fronts would be the same Steve.  Physically they possibly are, but the front of the Murena is so light whilst the Simca/Talbot models being front engine, front wheel drive, are much heavier, so the damping has to be different.  To back this up, the part numbers are specifically Matra.  When the parts are the same as a previous car in the Simca/Talbot range, it uses the older number.

The rears are unique to the car as Herman states.

You don't want the front shock absorbers any firmer than the originals because it makes the cars handling worse!  The front becomes 'jittery'.  I had one Murena with Konis all round and the setting had been adjusted firmer and the car was definitely worse on the road.  I replaced them with standard ones and the good handling immediately returned.

At the rear which is much heavier, maybe slightly firmer dampers would be OK and certainly mine was fine once the front ones had been put back to standard.

Concerning the suspension, it is more important to check the condition of the rear coil spring seats which are known to corrode and fail.  The shock absorbers themselves don't cause much trouble unless they leak.

Roy

 32 
 on: November 09, 2018, 09:30:55 am 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by roy4matra
hello Roy,
how about the poly bushes?

I have mounted blue poly bushes on our Delahaye and it drives better then new with it's rubber bushes. the weight of the car is 2100 kg.

I would like to mount them on the Murena S

They haven't done much mileage yet to give them a real work out, but it is certainly looking good.  There has been no detectable increase in harshness or vibration transmitted to the shell, which was one concern I had.  I am still consulting with Polybush over them, and once they are released to the public I will announce it.

The suggested price will also make a pleasant change as you will not only have some better bushes but they will be quite a bit cheaper that what is currently available too.

Roy

 33 
 on: November 09, 2018, 09:22:54 am 
Started by murramor - Last post by roy4matra
Has anybody ever taken the doors off?  My driver's door has sagged so the swage line is not aligned with the one in the rear panel.

Actually the door may not have dropped, unless you can see that the door shell is damaged where the hinges mount.  The problem is that the hinges were welded to the metal chassis and on the drivers side they were slightly out of line right from the start!  Take a good look at many of the press release photos and you will see the drivers side didn't line up even right at the beginning!  The way Matra got around the problem was to pack out the lower hinge mount to lift the door!  Mine (a 1982 car) had a number of the same packing shims fitted as used elsewhere on the car (the boot locks for instance) to bring the door and swage line level.

Quote
I would also like to paint the door and and hinge assembly to give it a factory fresh look.  It looks easy enough to knock the roll pins out but the door skin will be in the way of the front lower one because it curves under the pin.  I was wondering whether there is a way of removing the hinges from the inside of the door perhaps?

You need to knock the lower pin out, upwards.  I replaced my pins some years ago and did it that way.

As 'Speed Pete' says, I would not attempt to release the hinges from the doors with the doors still on, after all this time, unless you find the screws turn easily.  Better to remove the pins, and then work on the door hinge mounts with the door off.

Those spacers are 'E' shaped so you only have to slacken the screws and you can then slide them into place, past the screws, before tightening them again.

Once you have aligned the door, don't forget to lift the anchor pin where the door catch locks!

Roy

 34 
 on: November 08, 2018, 10:51:49 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by speed pete
hello Roy,
how about the poly bushes?

I have mounted blue poly bushes on our Delahaye and it drives better then new with it's rubber bushes. the weight of the car is 2100 kg.

I would like to mount thme on the Murena S

 35 
 on: November 08, 2018, 10:25:19 pm 
Started by murramor - Last post by speed pete
first you have to get out the pins, the lower one goes up , easiest way is to take a long M5 dreadend, put it through the hole of the pin and bolt a screw < 8 mm on the lower end. Then put a tube  > 8 mm inner side on the top, add a screw and the pin will come out when you fasten this screw.
Done this, you can screw out the hinges, for these hinges are bolted on the door ; but......often very rusty inside, so they won't come off easely. use a lot of WD40 and take your time on it!
When you get them loose, you can align the end of the doors.
You also have to renew the pins they are 8 mm.
Often the rubber cable protector between the doors and the chassis is gone, now is the time to renew them, the ones you will find on a BMW 3 series are usable.
good luck.

 36 
 on: November 08, 2018, 08:33:26 pm 
Started by murramor - Last post by murramor
Has anybody ever taken the doors off?  My driver's door has sagged so the swage line is not aligned with the one in the rear panel.  I would also like to paint the door and and hinge assembly to give it a factory fresh look.  It looks easy enough to knock the roll pins out but the door skin will be in the way of the front lower one because it curves under the pin.  I was wondering whether there is a way of removing the hinges from the inside of the door perhaps?

 37 
 on: November 07, 2018, 08:21:55 am 
Started by WessexElectricNutter - Last post by BrianM
You have low voltage to the gearbox. Do as Anders said, check the electrical connector. I  think it just screws out/in. Listen for constant noise of blocked oil filter which causes gear change problems. Again, have a look at my old gbox post. Looking at my old post you will see corrosion in the gbox ecu socket. think it is in front of battery.

 38 
 on: November 03, 2018, 03:07:23 pm 
Started by murramor - Last post by TELBOY
Ths is the piece your after.PM your address and its yours. Let me know, but I cant post it till mid week.
I'll clean it and remove the screw (for posting)  Grin
Tel

 39 
 on: November 03, 2018, 07:51:55 am 
Started by murramor - Last post by northmurena
Itīs a black plastic/rubber part. Appr. 20 mm in diameter and appr. 15mm long. With a hole where the nose from the cover is going in to hold it. Has a screw in the middle what will be screwed into the little hole in the  body ( right from your fuel-cap, in the corner )

 40 
 on: November 03, 2018, 07:33:28 am 
Started by murramor - Last post by northmurena
https://simon-auto.de/ersatzteilkatalog-matra-murena/

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