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 71 
 on: October 02, 2017, 04:40:38 pm 
Started by Jon Weywadt - Last post by Jon Weywadt
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I would also advise all 2.2 owners to read and seriously consider my improvements to the Murena cooling system also posted here under the title 'A better 2.2 cooling system'.

Roy
I have printed that out and will consider my options.
A year ago Jesper and I replaced the water pump with a rebuilt, using shaft and seals from a Dolz T116. The impeller was the original cast iron type and is pressed onto the shaft. Jesper does not think it can have come loose. The fan belt is intact and the pump wheel is spinning.
So the thermostat is coming out and i will test it. But also fill it up and run the engine without thermostat to see if it circulates.

 72 
 on: October 02, 2017, 04:00:55 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Could someone please advise me if I have done this correctly before its too late to change? When I fitted new brake pipe from left to right at the rear last year , I threaded the pipe through 3 gaps in the chassis. However the old pipe was just below this supported just by ty-wraps! Have I done this correctly? The old ty-wraps can still be seen at both ends (only one photo came out) But I drilled and fitted brake clips!!!

 73 
 on: October 02, 2017, 01:44:22 pm 
Started by Jon Weywadt - Last post by roy4matra
I am having yet another problem with my 2.2. Angry

... After a while at idle I happened to touch the cooling pipe where the original fuel pump is located and the pipe was cold. So was the thermostat housing.
So I shut the engine off and removed the air vent screw on the cooling hose by the termostat housing. No water came out.
I then removed the cover on the housing and discovered that there was no coolant in the top even though there was coolant in and around the thermostat.
I assembled everything and using my homemade bleed bottle I sucked the air out of the hose from the thermostat housing until water came out. Also from the hose from the radiator until water came out. Once more with the engine at idle the pipe and housing did not get warm.
Conclusion, the water is not circulating to the radiator.

Sounds like it Jon.

Quote
Can that be a stuck thermostat?

Possibly, but it could also be one of the faulty water pumps.  If you leave the thermostat out altogether does it then circulate?

Quote
I have not had it out since I do not have a new gasket, but can it block the flow so the pipes stay cool? The fan belt is ok and the pump is turning. Grin

Forget the thermostat for the moment Jon.  You need to check the water pump impeller and that you haven't got one of those faulty pumps!  Check out my posting here on water pumps with alloy impellers and also check out my FAQ's on just this as Ian has pointed out but go to the last item or click this link: http://www.matraclub.org.uk/faq5.html#one.  If you have one of those curved vane impellers it will not circulate the coolant until over 1500 rpm.  You should change any pump that has a curved vane impeller or at least replace the impeller with the correct straight blade one.

I would also advise all 2.2 owners to read and seriously consider my improvements to the Murena cooling system also posted here under the title 'A better 2.2 cooling system'.

Roy

 74 
 on: October 02, 2017, 01:35:46 pm 
Started by SellingMatra - Last post by roy4matra
Hello Roy,
is a Bagheera S.
In the meantime I replaced it with an other generator and I found the original wires of the car: are 3 red + 1 black.
I set up all but with key turn ON there is not voltage any of this 4 wires and red signal into instrument doesn't light up.

Many thanks for your help !

First, although there are three red wires and the one has the round terminal (white white insulated end) so that can't be connected in the wrong place, the other two red wires are actually a red wire with green marker and a red with yellow marker.  I can't see the marker colours in the photo so are these wires connected correctly?  The red with yellow marker is for the warning light connection and is the exciter wire.  This should be the one bottom left and the red with green marker is the one top left in your photo.  They do look right but you need to confirm them.

Next you need to check the ignition warning light bulb is good.  I have seen these blown or even not fitted!  The system cannot work without an ignition warning light bulb.  If the bulb is fitted and good, check the contacts on the instrument panel to the plug.  Also disconnect the red with yellow wire at the alternator and check there is battery voltage there when you switch the ignition on.

Let me know the result.

Roy

 75 
 on: October 02, 2017, 01:18:19 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Two steps forward, one step back:-
This mornings easy job was replacing brake pipe clips:-
Whist undertaking this simple task I discovered that the fuel tank straps had disappeared, no doubt into a pile of rust somewhere!!!  

 76 
 on: October 01, 2017, 02:49:54 pm 
Started by Lennart Sorth - Last post by Lennart Sorth
I  managed to get the connector off - and after staring in bemusement on the innards, I finally understood vaguely the details of how it worked. It is a funny construction - it reminds me a little of the timer-unit in my parent's washing-machine back in the mid sixties ....

The connection between the different poles is achieved by L-shaped, spring-loaded anchor, which is moved around - all of this fell out on the table as I took it apart, so I bneeded to figure out how it was supposed to be assembled before undertanding the workings.

The centre of this L-shaped anchor rests on the 12V feed, and the spring-loading should make it slide over the contacts in the periphery - first only ignition, but when you turn fully, the starter motor unsurprisingly get a feed too.

I gave the whole thing a thorough bath in the MAGIC saturated salt-in-vinegar solution - which completely removes all the oxidised  surface, and the saturated baking soda solution then stops further reaction. Then a quick rinse in clean water, and all copper looks like new again - see :

http://www.matrasport.dk/Gallery/Ignitionlock/index.html

Assembling the connector was a bit fiddly, as the tiny spring is loose, but I dabbed a tiny droplet of superglue on it, so the L-shaped lever and the spring was one unit (for now) - then it was just a matter of figuring out how to align it properly with the lock barrel, but after a few attempts, I got it right, and the ignition lock tested fine using my multimeter.

Back in the car it works just fine - actually consistently switching the charging lamp on when the ignition comes on - this was one of the observations I had made before.

Slow steps, but always nice to have done SOMETHING for the old girl :-)

/Lennart

 77 
 on: September 29, 2017, 07:52:30 pm 
Started by Jon Weywadt - Last post by Jon Weywadt
Digging through my stash of spares I found an assembled thermostat housing, alas without thermostat. Then deeper in the pile yet another housing and this time in luck, with thermostat. After cleanup and removal from the housing i immersed it in water and added a dip boiler and a thermometer. It say 83 degrees on the thermostat and wouldn't you know at 83 degrees it began to open and opened fully at about 90.
Next, I pulled out som gasket material and hammered out a new gasket using the housing as template.
This weekend I plan to replace the thermostat and then check what is wrong with the current one. Wish me luck.  Grin

 78 
 on: September 28, 2017, 10:40:32 pm 
Started by Jon Weywadt - Last post by MatraIan
Could be a stuck thermostat. Might be a problem with water pump??
have you read Roys FAQ page 5 http://www.matraclub.org.uk/faq5.html#top
also from roys parts page http://www.matraclub.org.uk/Murena.html

i think the original was a QTH 165 or 165K (with seal )
also see this
http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,3095.msg23121.html#msg23121

 79 
 on: September 28, 2017, 03:24:39 pm 
Started by SellingMatra - Last post by SellingMatra
Hello Roy,
is a Bagheera S.
In the meantime I replaced it with an other generator and I found the original wires of the car: are 3 red + 1 black.
I set up all but with key turn ON there is not voltage any of this 4 wires and red signal into instrument doesn't light up.

Many thanks for your help !

 80 
 on: September 28, 2017, 02:53:48 pm 
Started by Jon Weywadt - Last post by Jon Weywadt
I am having yet another problem with my 2.2. Angry
I was driving it every week, or so, until 3 weeks ago when it refused to start. Ignition was working and the electric fuel pump was working, but no way it would start. Then when a friend came by we tried again and noticed a bubbling sound from the expansion tank when cranking. Investigating it there was plenty of coolant in the tank.
After many attempts the engine finally started and ran at idle without any further bubbling from the expansion tank. After a while at idle I happened to touch the cooling pipe where the original fuel pump is located and the pipe was cold. So was the thermostat housing.
So I shut the engine off and removed the air vent screw on the cooling hose by the termostat housing. No water came out.
I then removed the cover on the housing and discovered that there was no coolant in the top even though there was coolant in and around the thermostat.
I assembled everything and using my homemade bleed bottle I sucked the air out of the hose from the thermostat housing until water came out. Also from the hose from the radiator until water came out. Once more with the engine at idle the pipe and housing did not get warm.
Conclusion, the water is not circulating to the radiator. Can that be a stuck thermostat?
I have not had it out since I do not have a new gasket, but can it block the flow so the pipes stay cool? The fan belt is ok and the pump is turning. Grin
I want to get a new thermostat to try, but apart from the expensive option from Simons, which car/model use the same thermostat as the Murena?

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