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 81 
 on: August 03, 2018, 03:36:03 pm 
Started by Classicman - Last post by roy4matra
OK, so it looks like the engine will need to come out.  The end of the tensioner has come out and is lying loose up against the chain.  That will explain the timing rattle before the gasket blew.

If the end of the chain tensioner was already out and could be seen lying loose, then the spring has probably come out too, and dropped into the sump.  It could even be damaged.  So you will definitely be better removing the whole power unit, and then rebuilding it properly to cure all the oil leaks and all the other faults.

Quote
I managed to get the water pump out, but I see that it is virtually impossible to remove the crank pulley and timing cover in the car.  There is just not enough space! Will have wait for the weekend now.......

The water pump is fairly easy to remove and change, but you have to lower the gearbox end of the power train, so that the timing case end moves away from the inner wing and gives you the room to work.  However, now you will be removing the whole unit, please consider the cooling system improvements I advocate, which you can do whilst everything is easier to get at.

Roy

 82 
 on: August 03, 2018, 03:24:41 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by roy4matra
Hello all 2.2 owners.

This is a quick posting to let you know that I have now started proceedings with a UK company for obtaining some Polyurethane bushes to fit the engine reaction bar link. (sometimes called a stabiliser but that term can be confused with the suspension anti-roll bar so I prefer reaction bar)  I thought I would post this now to prevent anyone else duplicating this work unnecessarily.

These Metallastic bushes never lasted that long, depending on how much mileage a year you do, and how hard you drive your car. (quite hard in my case Smiley )  As the original stocks were used up some time ago, the only ones available now are reproduction items and these seem to last even less time.  In fact the *new* one I have just sent as a sample to Polybush already had a section of the rubber not bonded fully to the outer metal at one point on the circumference!  Not good for a new bush.

They are going to check if they have anything in their stock that might fit.  We cannot do this ourselves on-line, since they use drop-down lists and just like others that use these type lists, they do not include Talbot or Matra.  If they do not have anything suitable, they will then decide what is the best means for making something that we can use.

I have also suggested that they consider something a little stronger, since most of us have uprated our 2.2 engines and I think we would prefer something better than the original anyway.  They do three grades, the normal 'comfort' rating, an intermediate hardness that will probably suit us, and a 'track' type hardness.  The full hardness might cause more harshness to be felt, so the intermediate will probably be a good compromise between the basic rating and something that will suit our uprated engines and still last longer.

I will update this posting once I have more details.

Roy

 83 
 on: August 02, 2018, 02:15:36 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Still lots to do, ie:- bonnet, fog lights, covers, top rubber strip and trim! excuse the broom handle keeping the bonnet up!!!!

 84 
 on: August 01, 2018, 05:54:34 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
You may remember several pages ago I had removed the front impact strip from the bumper as this had been bolted on. Obviously the holes left were too big for rivets so I obtained some counter sunk screw headed bolts and have tig welded these to the metal strip before re-fitting

 85 
 on: August 01, 2018, 05:49:48 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Will do Pete. Thanks for advice

 86 
 on: August 01, 2018, 09:42:25 am 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by suffolkpete
My car was the same, the emergency lifting cable was missing altogether so I bought a lorry engine stop cable, I think from Car Builder Solutions and cut it down to size, I used the bit left over to re-make the heater water valve cable.  For your safety cable, get a length of piano wire, 1.2 mm should do.

 87 
 on: July 31, 2018, 11:55:54 pm 
Started by ernst - Last post by BeaterBlogDave
Hi Ernst,
Yes, there's a drain centrally located fairly deep in the dash.  I bet your drain pipe is blocked, cracked, or disconnected.

See page 62:
http://www.matrasport.dk/vault/Espace/JE/MR315ESPACE6.pdf

 88 
 on: July 31, 2018, 06:56:25 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Bonnet safety release cable.
When stripping EOW one of the first things I had noticed was two broken cables coming from the light lifting mechanism. In my early days I did not know what these were but after starting the rebuild and spending hours reading about Murenas I found these to be the emergency light lift cable and the mechanism to stop you from opening the bonnet when the lights were in the up positions as they do not have enough room to do so and could cause damage. Now that I am into the rebuild I am obviously repairing and replacing broken items. Now I was thinking about not bothering to replace the safety cable but then I thought it would be best to as it couldn't take that long and was designed to have one so better but one on.
Matra have conveniently put an inspection cover on the underside of the release catch and upon removal (drilling out the rusted screws) it was evident that the mechanism had rusted or frozen in place and when the lights lifted it just snapped the cable at the bottom of the cable where it meets the lifting bar. the cable is a "solid" type that enables both pushing and pulling and just goes into a simple bent strip of metal so when the lights are up it simply blocks the bonnet release mechanism. When the lights are down the cable pushes the lever out of the way so the bonnet mechanism can be operated without obstruction. The first two pictures show the relevant positions when the lights are down and the second two show the positions when the lights are up.

 89 
 on: July 31, 2018, 10:17:28 am 
Started by ernst - Last post by ernst
Air conditioning in my Espace 139 ps from 2001. Condenser water from evaporator has begun running out in the right foot room. There must be a drain where the water will usually run out, but I can not find it.
Is there a drain?

 90 
 on: July 30, 2018, 05:01:13 pm 
Started by bloofer - Last post by bloofer
I have a 2001 3.0L Privilege.  I took it on a long trip and did the usual checks before setting off.  The day before starting back it would not start and the indicator on the dash told me to check oil.  There was nothing left although I know there was plenty when I checked before.  I put in 5L and it started almost immediately.  On the way back I took a break and checked the oil but again nothing (below min line).  I put another three litres in and carried on.  After a short while the engine wasn't running smoothly, the temperature rose to way past it's normal setting, there was white smoke coming out the exhaust and eventually it started losing power.  I called in the breakdown truck and they took me to a car hire to get home and the car to a dealership.  I had to abandon the car as I had to get home which is over 500 kms away.  I have to wait a week before the dealer can carry out diagnostics.

What is likely to be the issue and is it likely to be an expensive repair?

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