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 on: October 05, 2017, 11:57:02 am 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by suffolkpete
The volume of fluid displaced is  equal to the area of the piston face (3.142 x radius squared) x piston travel.  The larger volume of fluid displaced will make the clutch action heavier and possibly push the slave beyond the end of it normal travel.  I wouldn't use it.

 on: October 04, 2017, 06:15:42 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
so puzzling over this all day I went back and purchased one for the hell of it!!!!!! So:- obviously the mounting is identical and all pipe attachments are correct! Therefore being a larger bore it should displace more fluid when activated causing problems at the slave end, correct?Huh
But....as can be seen in the photos the bore of the piston passed the seal is increased so taking up space which would otherwise be full of fluid....therefore the amount of fluid displaced when the clutch is pressed and the piston moved "may" well be equal to the amount of fluid displaced in the smaller cylinder.
Or to put it as archimedes did. an article placed in a liquid will displace its own volume of liquid.
There is a way of testing this but I havnt got the time at the moment!

 on: October 04, 2017, 12:59:48 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Just got back............well, the casing and mounting points were identical, but, He allowed me to remove the piston and we measured it to find it was 22mm. He showed me a rather oilr and dusty book which listed this part as for a Bagheera and simca 1000..........surely this cant be right? I thought the baggy had the same diameter piston as the Murena 1.6! Anyway photo of mine stripped and ready to clean and fit new piston spring washer and circlip.

 on: October 04, 2017, 11:25:13 am 
Started by SellingMatra - Last post by SellingMatra
Hi Roy,
many thanks for your help !!
Now all work correctly

Thanks again !

 on: October 04, 2017, 09:59:22 am 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Thanks for the advice B-M I checked with Roy first (as I always do) Mine is the correct one (19mm) Unfortunatly Roy didn't have any repair kits and I point blank refused to give Simons 67.9 euro for the piston kit (including postage) I found a nice man after searching for 8hrs on the interweb and purchased his entire stock of the same piston kit. They have the same I.D numbers stamped on the pistons and worked out at a third of the price!!! I plan to pass these on to members if there is any interest. I am also paying him a visit today as he says he may have some NOS master cylinders so am taking mine down to compare. Again these work out at less than a third of the price and cheaper than simons repair piston kit!!!! Will keep the forum posted (and the owners mag)

 on: October 03, 2017, 05:50:49 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by Bart_Maztra
Check which size bore clutch master cylinder you have.  There are 3 bore sizes around.
Make sure the repair kit is the same.
Also when going for a replacement cylinder, make sure the bore is the same.

I had mine cylinder replaced, and found the clutch pedal much harder to press. Turned out the replacement cylinder was bigger than the old one. 

 on: October 02, 2017, 04:40:38 pm 
Started by Jon Weywadt - Last post by Jon Weywadt

I would also advise all 2.2 owners to read and seriously consider my improvements to the Murena cooling system also posted here under the title 'A better 2.2 cooling system'.

I have printed that out and will consider my options.
A year ago Jesper and I replaced the water pump with a rebuilt, using shaft and seals from a Dolz T116. The impeller was the original cast iron type and is pressed onto the shaft. Jesper does not think it can have come loose. The fan belt is intact and the pump wheel is spinning.
So the thermostat is coming out and i will test it. But also fill it up and run the engine without thermostat to see if it circulates.

 on: October 02, 2017, 04:00:55 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Could someone please advise me if I have done this correctly before its too late to change? When I fitted new brake pipe from left to right at the rear last year , I threaded the pipe through 3 gaps in the chassis. However the old pipe was just below this supported just by ty-wraps! Have I done this correctly? The old ty-wraps can still be seen at both ends (only one photo came out) But I drilled and fitted brake clips!!!

 on: October 02, 2017, 01:44:22 pm 
Started by Jon Weywadt - Last post by roy4matra
I am having yet another problem with my 2.2. Angry

... After a while at idle I happened to touch the cooling pipe where the original fuel pump is located and the pipe was cold. So was the thermostat housing.
So I shut the engine off and removed the air vent screw on the cooling hose by the termostat housing. No water came out.
I then removed the cover on the housing and discovered that there was no coolant in the top even though there was coolant in and around the thermostat.
I assembled everything and using my homemade bleed bottle I sucked the air out of the hose from the thermostat housing until water came out. Also from the hose from the radiator until water came out. Once more with the engine at idle the pipe and housing did not get warm.
Conclusion, the water is not circulating to the radiator.

Sounds like it Jon.

Can that be a stuck thermostat?

Possibly, but it could also be one of the faulty water pumps.  If you leave the thermostat out altogether does it then circulate?

I have not had it out since I do not have a new gasket, but can it block the flow so the pipes stay cool? The fan belt is ok and the pump is turning. Grin

Forget the thermostat for the moment Jon.  You need to check the water pump impeller and that you haven't got one of those faulty pumps!  Check out my posting here on water pumps with alloy impellers and also check out my FAQ's on just this as Ian has pointed out but go to the last item or click this link: http://www.matraclub.org.uk/faq5.html#one.  If you have one of those curved vane impellers it will not circulate the coolant until over 1500 rpm.  You should change any pump that has a curved vane impeller or at least replace the impeller with the correct straight blade one.

I would also advise all 2.2 owners to read and seriously consider my improvements to the Murena cooling system also posted here under the title 'A better 2.2 cooling system'.


 on: October 02, 2017, 01:35:46 pm 
Started by SellingMatra - Last post by roy4matra
Hello Roy,
is a Bagheera S.
In the meantime I replaced it with an other generator and I found the original wires of the car: are 3 red + 1 black.
I set up all but with key turn ON there is not voltage any of this 4 wires and red signal into instrument doesn't light up.

Many thanks for your help !

First, although there are three red wires and the one has the round terminal (white white insulated end) so that can't be connected in the wrong place, the other two red wires are actually a red wire with green marker and a red with yellow marker.  I can't see the marker colours in the photo so are these wires connected correctly?  The red with yellow marker is for the warning light connection and is the exciter wire.  This should be the one bottom left and the red with green marker is the one top left in your photo.  They do look right but you need to confirm them.

Next you need to check the ignition warning light bulb is good.  I have seen these blown or even not fitted!  The system cannot work without an ignition warning light bulb.  If the bulb is fitted and good, check the contacts on the instrument panel to the plug.  Also disconnect the red with yellow wire at the alternator and check there is battery voltage there when you switch the ignition on.

Let me know the result.


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