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 on: November 30, 2019, 12:08:01 pm 
Started by WessexElectricNutter - Last post by Anders Dinsen
Re: gearbox I think the oil filter is plugged. It was making a quiet gagging noise to start with until warm, then did it when it was hot. If I am looking at the right oil which was changed 1,500 miles max before all this started, it looks black now in the bucket, but was a deep orange on my fingers. I thought it was suppose to be red?

Ok, it's dead then. My guess is that at least one of the clutches inside has failed completely and there's now metal everywhere inside. I'd start looking for a replacement or a complete restoration. I had mine replaced with a refurbished one from Renault, others have had good experiences contacting the aftermarket services of the manufacturer ZF in Germany: https://aftermarket.zf.com/go/en/aftermarket-portal/

Good luck! You'll have a lovely car to drive when it works again Smiley

 on: November 30, 2019, 10:30:23 am 
Started by Moes - Last post by Moes
I have also been removing the gas tank, and taking some "before" pictures

I also found a nasty scratch in the gas-tank towards the engine  Cry   I am not sure what to about that. The rest of the tank is in incredible good condition after 45 year, it does not feel brittle, they really did know how to make gas-tanks out af good plastic!  

At some point someone in the past had a hard time fitting the trailing arms, and then they choose to drill some new bolt holes, for then to realize that the new hole was not the way to go..  after that they spot welded some washers onto the original holes, so that the new holes were blocked  Cry  = more work for me..

I have also been thinking about the weird welding repair on the air duct which is not that rusty in other places.The position of the repair is at the exhaust manifold, so I am guessing that the heat from the manifold have destroyed the paint on the air duct and it rusted.. As you can see the repair has also rusted.

 on: November 30, 2019, 09:51:41 am 
Started by Moes - Last post by Moes
Hi Anders

Thank you, please ask you neighbor about the curing process when you run into him Grin  

I don't have high expectation to the finish of the surface in the engine compartment, I really just want it to be black, and not sticky  Cool

Yesterday I removed the rear wheel bearings from the trailing arms. I heated the area around the bearings with a small blow torch, not that much actually, probably just up to 70-80 degrees celsius. And then they where fairly easy to push out.

I have also received new parts from France:

 - New rear wheel bearings with inner and outer seals  
 - Seals for the differential
 - Other gaskets
 - Hub nuts
 - Center engine mount
 - Brake caliber repair kits (alle four)
 - New drivers side armrest
Today I am going to the DIY handyman shop Biltema, to buy all of there cleaning/sanding discs and brushes  Cheesy

While removing some loose paint, I saw a little black spot on the "main rear bridge" (which is being used as a vacuum tank), the spot seems to be a tiny rust hole, I have marked with red on the picture, but it is hard to see. But this explains why it does not keep its vacuum for very long after shutting the engine off.

I also found several tears in the metal sheets making the engine compartment air ducts under the boot, they don't seem that rusty, so I am guessing its because of vibrations  Huh  

Best regards Frederik

 on: November 29, 2019, 02:45:27 pm 
Started by WessexElectricNutter - Last post by WessexElectricNutter
Thank you everyone for the replies. I've been slow in getting back, the car sat on the drive for over a year and I decided not to risk it. It got booked into a garage and I saved up for the cash to do it. I'm looking at preserving the car in its original form which is going to be fun which was the decision since I brought it off eBay. It was due for a cambelt change anyway, so I thought "do both together" as the cambelt has done less than 4,000 miles but 5 years.

Re: connector, had a look at that, seems to be clean. No sign of any corrosion I could see, but the connector was looking damp. So, I wonder if the solenoids have failed, due to the lack of use, I was thinking corrsion, but seems like the latter.
Re: gearbox I think the oil filter is plugged. It was making a quiet gagging noise to start with until warm, then did it when it was hot. If I am looking at the right oil which was changed 1,500 miles max before all this started, it looks black now in the bucket, but was a deep orange on my fingers. I thought it was suppose to be red?

It may of been overheating too. I did think 93C was high, but I think I found out why, there was a lot of antifreeze around the intercooler pipe and I was loosing coolant! I'll let everyone be the judge of that. There is a concern about parts availability, the garage think they can use a Mercedes Vito box(!) if some parts are compatible. Apparently, there are 4 versions available - something I didn't know. Being a post 2000 vehicle and no "Sport" switch, I would love to own a "d****" Espace as the gearstick seems to be much easier to reach, then I think that rules out 2 versions.

I wonder if someone has the d**** stick somewhere? I've heard they are a bit dangerous to use as they are dead easy to leave in gear, but then again, so is my recently acquired automatic Mk1 Clio, except it doesn't start if you leave it in gear and doesn't require you to press the brake to change the gear selector from Park or Neutral (Come to think of it, you don't even need to move the button unless you are coming out of Park or Drive I think). My Omega and Espace does.

 on: November 29, 2019, 07:39:22 am 
Started by Moes - Last post by Anders Dinsen
Hi Anders

Please stop by some day  Smiley

I will! Smiley

About your paint questions. I'm in no way an expert, but could ask my neighbor who runs a car paint shop what he would do... but I have a feeling he would recommend acrylic paint as he said that to me earlier when I asked him about topcoating the zinga I'm using on my Murena as a "primer". I'll ask him about the hardening/curing process. I would guess you would be all right by just letting it cure for longer, though.

I would spray it on from a can - for an engine room, a few imperfections are almost expected, it *is* a 70's car after all Smiley

 on: November 28, 2019, 10:45:24 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by Morne
Thank you for the info and links  Smiley

 on: November 28, 2019, 09:43:22 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by Oetker
Another waterpump with different impeller is up for auction on E-bay.
I never saw this one before.


 on: November 27, 2019, 10:24:50 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by Oetker
This is a replacement for Intermotor 50120
It should be right as that is the number forthe 1.6 in Tecdoc.
Temp 87-79

The one you linked is OK to temp 92-82 but connection is different

 on: November 27, 2019, 09:32:19 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by Oetker
I have a summer thermostat of 82 C in my 1.6
Type number TH10981G1
It also has automatic venting.
Works good for the summer.
In winter the engine comes nog hotter then around 75 C

 on: November 27, 2019, 09:06:46 pm 
Started by Oetker - Last post by Oetker
Around 2008 I bought myself a after market new lower engine-mount right side because the old one was warned
I mounted the thing and ever since I have a annoying rumble and lot of vibrations.

I'm gonna change it for someting else more softer.
I found one that can fit with slight adjustments but I want to make some bij mijself.

To mould one myself I need to know the Shore A grade.
I have the idea that it's something around Shore AH 45-55 .
Also I need to know where the holes in the rubber are situated.
Logic would be that the heavy part of the engine should rest on the massive part of mount on the other side there is more flex if it is mounted with the havy point resting on the holes.
I have several images of this mounting but the holes are in all kinds of positions.
Is the old one (first picture) above in the right position?
I posted about it some years ago but still have no clue.
Any ideas?


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