From the photos the damage to the fiberglass does not look too bad. The parts do not look like they are mis-aligned to one another, so it should be possible to clean it, sand it with a rough grain, apply epoxy and glass matting and more epoxy, on the inside. If the cracks are visible from the outside, apply some plastic padding with glass fiber fill and sand it smooth. When painting, apply a high quality epoxy primer that guarantees water tightness. Otherwise the paint might bubble up from moisture in the fiberglass.
I have fixed my bumper a couple of times that way and plan to mould the top and front to align with the body, so no rubber mouldings are necessary. I have seen others do that and like the look.
The bend frame is a more serious matter. I don't know if anyone has the frame measurements, or know where the alignment points are. 
Good luck with it.

I have to admit I hadn't even realised that Pete! Thanks. Of course, the wiper base is probably angled for left or right hand drive. Can't find any BX arms yet though. However I've now found a few more bits to fix.

I've long thought that the front of my car must have had some light impact at some point as so little seemed to line up. Now that I have dropped the bumper off I see why! Originally all the bracing struts in the headlamp wells were missing, as were the two cross braces inside the front wheel arches.

The front wing had started catching on the drivers door and showed evidence of old damage. When I took off the bumper there was a lot of cracked panels and missing braces. Some self-tapping screws had been put in the the light housing and side of the bumper to screw it together as these braces were missing.

When I started to fit the braces, it was obvius that the front bumper support had been bent at both sides. I dont have time to start repairing the fibreglass immediately, I am concentrating on trying to align the panels and braces better. But it looks like later this year I will have to learn how to patch some of these panels!

Yes those rims look very nice on the car, esspecialy in combination with the car color and lowered suspension

WOW....

Have been searching the ATS classic, but cant find them to the Murena! Thats whay I did search revolution

What dimensions on your wheels, ET and tyre sizes? AND where to buy.....


 

Hi Alfafred

Not sure what everyone else thinks but I would not run 7 inch rims on the front of a mid engined car, it will be more prone to aquaplaning and you will find that the car will move around on road undulations and markings. I would tend to favour 6 inch max.

Regards
John

Looking sweet,

They are pretty close to my rims, which I seriously think are the most beautiful I've seen on a murena   (thank you Jos - the guy I bought the car+rims from)





Mine are ATS. I like the balance between the matt alu, and black, and the very sharp edges making them perfect 80's rims. (in my opinion)  

from the net: http://www.pacificie-tuning.com/images/product_images/info_images/ATS/ATS-Classic.jpg

Best, Jesper

Lookin for new wheels... Front 7 x 15 and Rear  8 x 15. ET25. Have been searching Gotti, Compomotive and Revolution. And since I had Revolution on my cars in the 80`s I do really like these.
Someone who have seen a Murena with something like this?

And would the size an ET be correct?

The warning lamp should make no resistance when the engine is stopped and will abruptly go to open circuit when you start the engine, as for the gauge terminal, that depends on whether the resistance goes up or down when the pressure increases.

Ahhh Pete,

That makes sense then. The terminals are two different sources of info! Super..
So i I use a multi meter, then the warning lamp terminal should make no resistance, and the other should make some restance?

Because the sensor provides an earth to the lamp via the WK terminal when there is no pressure.  This earth is disconnected when the pressure rises.  It does matter which termianal is which, you should be able to identify them with a test lamp or a multimeter.