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 on: June 29, 2020, 01:30:55 pm 
Started by Moes - Last post by Moes
Hi Frederik

It's a frustrating problem, but the solution must be there somewhere.

So the old synchro didn't work well because the speed was only slowly synchronized due to the ring wear, and when you tried to engage the gear too fast, you'd then grind the gears, i.e. wear down dog teeth.

You say the synchro ring is compressed. I think I understand what you mean, but obviously the ring is not compressed. What is compressed, however, is the oil - which of course can't be compressed either, but can at least float away as the compression increases between the two faces.

Are you using the correct fluid? I would imagine that if the viscosity is too high, the oil works, but can't escape and therefore it will resist your attempt to engage the dogs?


Hi Anders

I can see that I have forgot to post a picture of a synchromesh ring, this will probably explain quite a lot  Smiley  The synchromesh ring is en "open" ring made out of some kind of hardened steel or spring steel; with a high friction material on the outer rim. That is why my best explanation is that the ring is being compressed (into a smaller diameter)  Wink

And my explanation of the problem itself might not be bulletproof..   When I mention shifting gear "fast" I should have wrote: "in a normal fashion, but too fast  for a worn synchromesh ring".  Because the ware of the dog teeth can not be avoided over time if the synchromesh ring surface is worn off, of cause double clutching and shifting gear very carefully would help. Since I bought my car (and I got it running) especially 1. and 2. gear has been very bad, and I would normally have to try to get it in gear 2-3 times before succesding..

I have used a classic Castrol EP-90 gear oil, which according to my repair manual was the originally used type of gear oil. It does seem to have a very high viscosity!

Best regards Frederik       

 on: June 29, 2020, 07:32:10 am 
Started by Anders Dinsen - Last post by Anders Dinsen
Hi John

Thanks for those pointers and for reminding me about lumiweld and similar products. I haven't tried it and looks like I will need to do some experimentation first to learn the process, but it sure looks doable.


 on: June 29, 2020, 06:34:15 am 
Started by mhi - Last post by Anders Dinsen
Hi Mark

These engines are more or less impossible to break, but fuel supply sounds like an obvious place to look for problems.

I'd replace the fuel filter and the pump. Your problem sounds like one I used to have with my J11, which had exactly the same set up with the same filter type and pump. The brushes on the pump wear down. Additionally they become more noisy. They are sealed at not serviceable. Another source of problems is the fuel pump relay in the engine room. But that would cause a complete stop, whereas your problem sounds like it is just slowing down, not providing enough fuel/pressure etc.

According to my Etai service manual, the intake temperature sensor should have these values:

0 deg C: 254 - 266 Ohm
20 deg C: 283 - 297 Ohm
40 deg C: 315 - 329 Ohm

Good luck!


 on: June 28, 2020, 05:34:50 pm 
Started by mhi - Last post by mhi
Last week, in hot weather (by British standards), about 30 C, the Espace had to make its first long journey since March. After about 2 hours of steady motorway driving with the temperature gauge happily in the middle of its scale, without other warning, the engine stopped pulling the car along. Instead of accelerating from 55 mph (90 km/h) to overtake, it slowed down, and down, and down, and I had to stop by the side of the road[1]. As soon as I pressed the clutch, the engine stopped. After a minute's pause, tried re-starting: the engine started well, ran for 30 seconds and died. Waited 2 minutes, tried again: got about 2 minutes out of it this time. We called a breakdown service and waited the usual 50 minutes.

The recovery driver started the engine, winched the car onto the back of his truck, and took us to the next services. The engine was still running, and he couldn't find anything wrong. (I had a slightly entertaining five minutes very politely and gently suggesting that his search for the OBD socket was in vain.) I was given some no-doubt sound advice that it was probably to do with the heat, but might be a temporary blockage in the fuel supply which was unlikely to happen again, the breakdown was officially recorded as "fault not found" and we continued our journey. Later on the same hot day, going the other way along the same road[2] the car did it again: this time we waited 10 minutes, and the engine started happily and got us the rest of the way home.

There was no obvious electrical fault. I looked in the information in the matrasport Vault and the possibilities seem to be (a) fuel not getting to the engine (pump, filter, pressure regulator) or (b) the intake air temperature sensor sending dud values to the engine computer/ECU.

The sensor is 26 years old, easy to get at, and cheap to replace. I've ordered a replacement, thinking that's worth doing anyway. I can't find a data sheet to check whether it has the right resistance.

What are the other most likely causes for this failure? Both times the engine wasn't working very hard in the few minutes before stopping. There were no driver-noticeable symptoms apart from the engine stopping and failing to start immediately, and the hot-for-Britain weather. Is there anything in the Espace or its J7R engine known to fail like this?  I could change the fuel filter but anything more than that means booking the car with my usual mechanic, and I'd like to suggest what to check first if that's necessary.

  - Mark

[1] The A1(M) near Leeds. Thunderingly busy and with a very narrow hard shoulder.
[2] The A1 this time, without a hard shoulder. Less traffic but more scary.

 on: June 28, 2020, 12:42:47 am 
Started by Anders Dinsen - Last post by JL
Hi Anders

I have used Lumiweld to repair aluminium castings in the past, only a blowlamp and cleanliness required.


There are a number of different manufacturers but I have found that Lumiweld works for me.


 on: June 27, 2020, 08:15:27 am 
Started by Anders Dinsen - Last post by Anders Dinsen
Or maybe you could buy the parts from them to do an overhaul yourself?

Thanks for the link to Wood Auto's bill of materials for the 10N13, Roy! I will indeed do my own overhaul.

I've researched the Clio 13N157 alternator a bit more and finds that while it is very similar (it even has the same two pin regulator), the front cover is mirrored compared to the 13N10 and misses an indent.

Changing the mount to fit the Clio alternator is possible in theory, but requires different parts and brackets. If I couldn't get parts for the alternator, I would probably have modifed a 13N157 using the front cover from the old 13N10, but since both Wood in the UK and Technikline in Germany has the parts I need except one, I'll be enjoying going ahead doing my own overhaul.

The only part I need which they're both missing from their lists is the terminal bolt and a new back cover. I'll be contacting both of them about that. If the back cover is not available, I'll have the cracks welded.

Meanwhile I'll continue working on the engine room. I'm making slow but good progress there, and not finding too many surprises. A major next step is removing the fuel tank to get access to the chassis parts hidden behind it.


 on: June 26, 2020, 12:52:55 am 
Started by pduke - Last post by roy4matra

It has been a while since the starter started misfunctioning in way. After a few days of inactivity it usually went like this:
1st try -> slow spinning of the engine (like uncharged battery) and stop
2nd try -> even slower
3rd try -> nothing, just a click sound
i let it for ~20 seconds
4th try -> Spin for a while and ...engine on (or sometimes needed a 5th try which was normal)

cheers all

Whilst it could be the starter motor needs to be replaced, the very first thing you should do is to check all the earths and especially the earth braid from the engine to the chassis.

Obviously you have an earth lead from the battery negative to the chassis, and you should check that but the earth braid is just as important, as it completes the block earth to the chassis and back to the battery.  A poor earth will give the same sluggish engine turn over or just a click from the solenoid as a flat battery or poor starter.


 on: June 25, 2020, 10:24:39 pm 
Started by pduke - Last post by pduke
Does this mean something or i am just lost in useless details when i should just be replacing the starter?


I'd say you're getting lost here, and need a new starter.


I miss my old J11 when I see your dash Smiley

Smiley i ve been there ..
so what is going on with starters market ?
i found this Valeo for 85 euros in a store near me ....
this is nuts!

plus, could this not be the starter? cause the bill is starting going up here and i have a sound from the steering shaft or the suspension ... and.... today i found a 2.8v6 with 33k km that hasn't move since 96 ... and i am thinking about buying it for parts .....  Roll Eyes  Shocked i mean the interior is like new!! Shocked Shocked
talking about getting lost ... omg

 on: June 25, 2020, 06:42:58 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
As I have to wait 3 weeks for my new carb I thought I would look at various nagging little things. One being a sticky drivers door unlock mechanism. When removing I discovered that the bolt at the bottom of the window runner which I thought was a support is in fact an adjuster to align the window runner. I wonder if all those problems with my window being stiff in the runner could have easily been cured by a slight adjustment!

 on: June 25, 2020, 03:56:26 pm 
Started by pduke - Last post by Anders Dinsen
Does this mean something or i am just lost in useless details when i should just be replacing the starter?


I'd say you're getting lost here, and need a new starter.


I miss my old J11 when I see your dash Smiley

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