New car in the Uk, Little bit of help required.

[Gib]

Just a short post but I have got my grubby mitts on a  Murena! A 1981 1.6 in silver with black leather interior, pretty much std. except for a retro fit of manual winders, an after market central locking unit ( which works quite well and a Carjoy rear deck cover, I have no idea of the name of it and I am still unsure if its staying as ideally I want to go back to original spec. Or at least have in my possession parts to take it back to original spec.

Any way after an uneventful 600km last Friday on the drive home I need some help but promise I will give a more in depth post with pictures at some point soon.

The 2 big issues:
1.   The carb (single 40DCNF no idea on internals ) is not right and I haven’t worked on a carb for 15 + years. No obvious leaks, distortion or damage. At the moment it starts from hot no issue, from cold with choke no issue. Drives when cold with choke ok but any heavy right foot action will stall out the engine. It will stall out when hot but is more pronounced. If you drive around the issue it revs through to around 5k I didn’t want to rev any higher as I needed to get home. From memory this is the enrichment side
a.   Just to add to the complexity, a twin carb manifold and 2nd 40DCNF came with the car which I would like to fit ( just for the looks and noise). But this has no linkages any advice on where to get parts and which parts are best to get?
2.   The new UK MOT system will not accept the car based on the description or VIN ( reading on line this seems to be a problem for imported cars at the moment). One way I think may work is to supply 2 or 3 Uk registration plates from identical cars ( 81 1.6) so they can compare what they are registered as. Does this sound feasible? A quick google search has given me some plates. Any other ideas?

[Jon Weywadt]

Hi. And welcome to the forum.

For the carb question, make sure you check all the vacuum hoses. On the Murena they are notorious for drying up and cracking. Any vacuum leaks will make it drive bad. Perhaps bad vacuum advance of the ignition is the cause.

Was your car previously through a MOT in UK, or did you just import it?

[Gib]

Just imported it from Holland, well I have successfully exported it but I am now struggling with the import as I have lost my gateway card which I need so I can fill in the NOVA ( Import doc in the UK) online.

[JL]

Hi

I would look a the accelerator pump jets or the diaphragm. As for the twin carbs you really need the 36 (dcnf I think!)type from the Bagheera - with the choke sizes in the 40's I think that it will run like a dog unless on full throttle, additionally with the Bagheera setup you will get a proper linkage and air filter setup.

Regards
John

[Oetker]

quote
--------
 retro fit of manual winders.
===================

I don't know about the carbs because I drive standard 36 Webers but I can tell you that the 1.6 had in 1981 manual winders and clear windows.

Herman

[suffolkpete]

The 1.6 as standard had steel wheels and manual windows.  Buyers could specify an "Executive Pack" providing alloys (although the spare was still steel) and electric windows.  I agree with Oetker about the carbs, 40 DCNF are too big.  Titus, of this forum, has fitted twin  36 DCNFs to his 1.6 using a Bagheera setup and if you were to come to a Club meeting you would be able to see his car.  Personally I wouldn't bother, the original setup of a single 36 DCNV works perfectly well when properly set up, the twins, without work on the camshaft, won't make a huge difference to the performance.

[Gib]

Well the single 40 DCNF is now all ok and so is the spare after a strip and clean. They both need new parts but based on the advice here I am on the look out for a pair of 36s or an up rated cam ??

No idea on how original the car is but it has the cut outs on the sills ?? and I have not had time to open the doors to check what is inside.

Next 3 issues:
1. Tyres Toyo CF2 available in the right sizes and I know people that have used them for the price they seem ok.
2. Headlights , Golf MK2 £20 ish ea from GSF then I make a back plate adaptor unless there are some around for sale?
3. Drive shaft boots all 4 need replacing. What is the cost and availability of the options as the last time they were discussed was a few years ago and they were getting rare then?

( as for the spanner'ing or fabrication side I am quite confident and have full machine shop access just trying to get the simplest options and not reinvent the wheel).

[JL]

Hi "Gib"

I think I have a pair left from some I had laser cut from stainless a little while ago, PM me when you are ready.

Regards
John

[suffolkpete]

The Golf headlights are a good idea if you can get the adaptors easily, you can also fit Wipac Quadoptics with a little adaptation.  The boots are about £50 each as they incorporate a metal can.  If you can get the can off undamaged, you can fit "Universal" boots from a motor factor for around a tenner apiece.  Either of these solutions require removal of the trailing arms and you will probably find the bolts seized in the Silentblocs and will have to be sawn through, requiring new bolts and Silentblocs.  Recently I had to do the job in a hurry and used a boot which is split and then glued together after fitting.  It cost £17 and took less than an hour to fit and somewhat to my surprise is still going strong after over 1000 miles.
Changing the camshaft is an engine out job, cams from Simca 1000 Rallye cars will fit.  You may well find that the cam makes more difference than the carbs.

[Gib]

Headlights I think we have a way forward with the golf MK2 options.
Rear wishbones have been off the car in the last year and look ok so although I am not going gung-ho on them I am comfortable and have seen the replacement parts on line.
Drive shaft boots £50 from where ? Carjoy, Simon or elsewhere? as they need to be the 1.6 and I can find the 2.2 but not 1.6.
Universal boots I have seen the pictures of them being fitted over the can ( not too keen as there is no retention lip for them. Using the search I did see some info on how to fit universals in the can. In the can would be my preferred option but I need more info if possible ( and promise to do some photo'd how too's when completed for the archives )

[suffolkpete]

Simon can supply the boots, but to be honest I've found the quality of the rubber to be poor recently. This seems to be a common problem with re-manufactured classic parts from what I've read on other forums, not just Matra.  I've gone down the universal boot route, fitting them in the can, in the past and have some photos, I was planning to do an article for the Club mag in the new year.  The trailing arms may well be available but have you seen the price?  You shouldn't need to replace the arms if they're seized though, just the Silentblocs and the bolts.

[TimS]

Last time I checked boots for both the 1.6 and 2.2 were available on Ebay, both Uk and French. Both were cheaper that Simon which isn't hard at the moment.

I would also suggest you come and join us at the Matra Enthusiasts Club UK where there are a lot of willing helpers glad to have another car in the fold!

[Jon Weywadt]

Headlights I think we have a way forward with the golf MK2 options.
Rear wishbones have been off the car in the last year and look ok so although I am not going gung-ho on them I am comfortable and have seen the replacement parts on line.
Drive shaft boots £50 from where ? Carjoy, Simon or elsewhere? as they need to be the 1.6 and I can find the 2.2 but not 1.6.
Universal boots I have seen the pictures of them being fitted over the can ( not too keen as there is no retention lip for them. Using the search I did see some info on how to fit universals in the can. In the can would be my preferred option but I need more info if possible ( and promise to do some photo'd how too's when completed for the archives )

I would not buy boots from Simons. For example, the steering rack boots he supplies lasts less than two years. Complaining to him only results in him telling you that no one else has problems with them. But I know several who has the same problem. The problem is that they are not pure rubber, or the vulcanisation is poor. They dry up and crack in less than two years.

[Gib]

So the 5 minute change the drive shaft boots is down to replacing the bearings New discs rebuilt calipers with new seals and boot. And a coat of paint when I get the chance