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Author Topic: Front bumper???  (Read 20789 times)
RazorbackNOR
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« on: July 14, 2008, 03:55:55 pm »

Could anybody PLEASE help me with what screws and other thing I need to remove in order to be able to remove the front bumper, if not, it seems a hacksaw or chainsaw might be the closest tool I'll be using the remove the bloddy thing!!  Angry Angry
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2008, 04:27:51 pm »

We're going to strip Waldos 2.2 on the coming Saturday. I'll bring my camera and document the procedure Smiley
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michaltalbot
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« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2008, 09:02:05 am »

 Grin You don't need to cut it  Wink there are only 6 screws which has to be demounted and You don't need to demount those big ones which are on both sides (painted and rusty from inside). First of all, I'm allways demounting the headlamps (I won't write how, think You know it). First two screws are on the top, I think You have allready found them, second ones are down there, where are plastic housings for bar which open/close headlamps, the are holding also the long distance lights (you don't need to demount it by parts, just demount these two small screws, and you give away the bumper with lights and holders), and at least You must to demount small screws which are inside the corners of bumper. You will find them when You'll look straight into the upper corner of the bumper from the inside, they are holding the metal strip (which is not possible to demount, because those big screws are too rusty) to the chassis. And on the opposit side of this metal strip, there are two rivets, which You have to route away. That's all  Smiley
« Last Edit: July 19, 2008, 09:06:11 am by michaltalbot » Logged

Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2008, 10:34:30 pm »

Michal is correct, we did it today Cheesy Here's a bit of photo documentation:

The bracket on the inside of the bumper:


You CANNOT get the nut off the bolt in the middle, though that would be the correct way to do it. The problem is that you can't prevent the bolt from rotating and damaging the GRP because it will turn the square opening round. Instead remove the rivets connecting it to the wheel arch, and remove the bolt attaching the other end of the bracket to the chassis bumper bar (a bit difficult to access, but quite possible).

How to remove the rivets Wink


I can post some more photos when I take the bumper out of the Espace tomorrow Cheesy
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
krede
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« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2008, 01:29:01 am »

DON'T drill out the rivets! the bracket is mounted in the front as well so it cant, and doesn't need to be, removed!!! .... just undo the bolts in the first picture (by any means necessary) and you will be fine..
« Last Edit: July 20, 2008, 01:31:31 am by krede » Logged
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #5 on: July 20, 2008, 09:49:42 am »

DON'T drill out the rivets! the bracket is mounted in the front as well so it cant, and doesn't need to be, removed!!! .... just undo the bolts in the first picture (by any means necessary) and you will be fine..


But that was what we did yesterday.... we removed the bracket from the car, but left it on the bumper because we couldn't get the nut off bolt. Why have you changed your mind now? Grin
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
Waldo
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« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2008, 10:09:21 am »

Must agree with Anders... Also we (Hans) managed to get the bracket of the car intact by undoing the rivets and the bolt that holds it on the chassis in the front.

By the way, some WD40 is essential Wink
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krede
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« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2008, 10:26:44 am »

ok!.. I thought Hans managed to undo the rusty bolts!... witch i reckon SHOULD be attempted before any drilling is authorised !
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #8 on: July 20, 2008, 11:11:01 am »

ok!.. I thought Hans managed to undo the rusty bolts!... witch i reckon SHOULD be attempted before any drilling is authorised !

Unfortunately not - he took the inaccessible (at least for my computer programmers' hands) bolt on the chassis off. I'm now left with the challenge of getting the rusty nut off  Angry but I'll try your (or was it Hans'?) tip of cutting a groove in the bolt head so I can hold it in place with a screw driver while I work with the nut. I may also try the nut-crusher.... we'll see Smiley I have vacation now, so I'll enjoy myself taking the things apart (when I'm not busy with the kids..........  Shocked )
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
Matra_Hans
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« Reply #9 on: July 20, 2008, 07:41:50 pm »

Hi
I would not cut a grove in the bolt. I would cut an remove the nut with a angel or straigth grinder. If done carfully you will be able to reuse the bolt.

Hans
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #10 on: July 20, 2008, 08:20:30 pm »

Hi
I would not cut a grove in the bolt. I would cut an remove the nut with a angel or straigth grinder. If done carfully you will be able to reuse the bolt.

Hans

Is it a special bolt?

I thought I'd just find a similar bolt in a local builders shop. Perhaps I may even be able to find a stainless one. But I'll try the nutcrusher first then.

« Last Edit: July 20, 2008, 08:24:15 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
lewisman
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« Reply #11 on: July 21, 2008, 12:08:41 am »

I just drilled the bolts from the outside, working up from small sizes of drill bit and adding copious amounts of water from time to time to stop heat build up (I used a cordless drill - not a good idea to mix 240V with water). If you are not careful you can melt the fibreglass.

I will either use galvanised replacements (haven't found any stainless ones) or try to work out a way of fixing the bolt head internal to the bumper and fill the external hole.  They are bolts usually used for woodwork applications so quite happy to "lose" them!
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RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #12 on: July 21, 2008, 04:26:32 pm »

Quote
First of all, I'm allways demounting the headlamps (I won't write how, think You know it).

No, I don't..... So if anybody would like to enlighteb me on this also.....

Thanks for the info on the bumper tho, will try to have a look at it some day soon now.
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Waldo
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« Reply #13 on: July 21, 2008, 06:15:57 pm »

Hi,

Headlights are easy.
4 bolts that needs undoing from the wheel arch. I believe it's a 13mm spanner you will need.
They are located just behind the headlights, visible from the top when you "pop the hood". Though the bolts are flat/smooth on the top side, so you need to undo the nuts inside the wheel arch.
No need to take the wheel off though.

After that you only need to disconnect the cable and the link arm that raises the headlights.
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RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #14 on: July 28, 2008, 10:26:26 pm »

Speaking of headlight pods.... The placement of the bolts for securing the bolts are less then good.... Especially in Norway were we use salt to remove the snow.... salt and iron does not make for a good combination..... So on my car the bolt were almost rusted through and upon trying to remove then....well you can guess the rest....


Does anybody have any bright ideas on some bolts to replace these, they also seem to be spotwelded in place. Been thinking of the idea of turning the bolt/nut upside down so the only thing that could be damaged was the round head of the bolt(if the space on the top allows it.)
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2010 Mazda 3 1,6  Diesel Gunmetal Blue
1983 Matra Murena 2.2 Platine
50cc Pocketbike
IPSC shooter
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