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Author Topic: Front discs  (Read 9051 times)
Titus
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« on: August 30, 2008, 12:51:58 am »

Thank you for the advice on Yokohama tyres. I forgot who posted this on The Forum but great advice.  These combined with green stuff pads and the drilled and grooved discs on the front make all the difference to the Murena stopping. That is if you don't mind a 'shussssh' when breaking!
I really have to try hard to make the breaks lock now, if at all.


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1.6 Murena
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2008, 09:07:12 pm »

That would have been me (about the Yoko's). What types and dimensions have you fitted, then?

I thought about the grooved/drilled discs, but setteled on the standard ones instead - but yours sure look effective Wink

Congratulations on the upgrades Smiley
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
Titus
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« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2008, 04:10:52 pm »

I went for the 185/55 VR14 S-Drive on the front and 195/60 HR14 C-Drive on the rear. I haven't been troubled by the mix of S and C drive although the fitter felt it necessary to disclaim responsibilty for any instability.
 
I can definately agree that the soft Yokos make a huge difference to the car. I bought it with new looking tyres on but found they were actually ten years old, hence rock hard. It would lock and slide making things very dangerous. This made me think that the Murena had not been such a good choice afterall.

But with the Yokos fitted and even before the breaks had been fixed the car was at last drivable. Once Roy had overhauld the breaks it was like a different car. Really difficult to make things lock up now and with the new found confidence in the cars ability to stop the whole driving experience is as it should be...good fun and safe.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2008, 07:20:12 pm »

That's exactly the combination I have, and I recognise your experience with them. They are excellent for the car.

I haven't been troubled by the difference either, even though the character of these two tyres is quite different. The pattern is, of course, but honestly I don't think patterns make that much difference (as long as they are there and the grooves are deep enough). No, the real difference comes from the stiffness of the carcass, where the S-drive is far stiffer than on the C, and actually more so than the lower profile means.

This means that the rear is given a bit more lateral softness than the front, and I beleive I can feel that difference in fast corners, but it's nothing to worry about. On the front, the stiff carcass means that there can be quite a bit of rattle in the steering wheel on rough roads, and more so, of course, when the car has been standing still for some days and the tyres has a flat spot. But I personally find myself more confident in the handling when I have a good feeling of what the tyres are sticking to, and the flat spots are quickly cleared once they heat up a bit.

So for a 14" combination, I feel they are the best choice available. Choises are better for 15" tyres, and as far as I remember, I think both the front and rears would be available in S-drive for the corresponding sizes (195 front and 205 rear).

- Anders

PS: From your photos, I imagine that the shocks are next on the list? Wink
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
Titus
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Posts: 145



« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2008, 08:12:46 pm »

Thanks Anders,

Your tyre choice is spot on. I can't say I have noticed flat spotting after letting the car stand for a week or so but I do have a slight problem with balancing. The fitters could only balance with 'half a ton' of weights on the rear side of each front wheel. They wanted to fit the weights to the front side of the alloys which I did not want. I had to take it back twice and even then at 70mph there is a slight shake. Annoying but not too bad. I'm going to try a Citroen dealer next as I believe they may be more experienced with the holeless hub.

And yes, the Spax suspension kit from Simon is next. I've got the beauties but will wait to fit this incase unexpected problems pop up preventing me from taking the lap of honor around Silverstone. Dream on!
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1.6 Murena
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2008, 08:59:40 pm »

Well if you want a balanced wheel, you need both weights on the inside as well as the outside, as they have to balance both the radial and lateral differences in tyre thickness and weight.

Have you checked your rims for roundness, by the way? Mine was oval by 3-5 mm on the inside. I have had them corrected with excellent improvement.

Regarding your suspension kit, I'd fit the new shocks sooner rather than later. The procedure is dead-easy on the front, unless you fit the coilovers (if you have them?).

I recently replaced mine with a set of standard shocks from Simon:

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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
krede
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« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2008, 07:22:55 pm »

I hope thats rust proofing dripping from the shock!!!! Wink
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2008, 09:17:54 pm »

I hope thats rust proofing dripping from the shock!!!! Wink

Nono, it was just dog - she passed by and wanted to greet the new shocks a warm welcome Grin

Okay... I sprayed them. It's dry now and not noticed, and I hope they won't rust on the surface as quickly as they would otherwise. It doesn't help performance, but it does improve the look Smiley
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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