99 jeon 2.0 16v clutch cylinder

[shawnvic]

does anyone have  the fitting instructions for the cluch master cylinder (in english)as i only have them in french and how much of the dash do i have to remove to gain access to it mine has no leaks but does not let me engage any gears,it was only changed 20 months ago,by previous owner.thanks

[ross]

hi,

I don't know if you have solved your problem with your clutch hydraulics, as it has been a while since you posted the topic, but if you still need some help please let me know, as I have an ongoing fight with the system on my 2.2dt and I refuse to pay the Renault price for a new one.
Regards
Ross

[shawnvic]

topped up the fluid only about 10 mls pumped clutch and so far seems to be ok,every now and then though have to pump clutch to get it back but seems the more i use it the better it gets,am not loosing any fluid.am of the same reasoning as you i dont want to pay 200 pounds plus so as long as i have to pump it i will,system seems far to complex for its own good a cable would be better and cheaper,

[ross]

Shawnvic,
Sorry for the delay in responding to your posting but the family keep me very busy during the week.
I can see that your clutch hyraulic system is as temprimental as the one in my car.
I assume from your description that you have the type with a header bottle under the dashboard just in front of the steering wheel, as not all the systems have this way of topping up the fluid.
I have taken my system out of the car by splitting the joint on the top of the gearbox, which allows the section inside the car to be removed from under the dashboard, and the slave cylinder and its pipework removed from the gearbox.
I first had to do this because the plastic pivot on the clutch pedal split, so I had to make a new clevis to fit on the end of the master cylinder rod to replace the split one.
The next time the system failed me was when the joint on top of the gearbox popped apart, I must have damaged the locking ring inside the joint when I took it apart the first time.
I had to make a clamp to hold the ends of the pipe together.
On both occasions I bled the system to make sure that there wasn't any air in the pipes.
This is quite a simple operation, but best done with two people, one to hold the system pipework and one to keep the valve in the end of the pipe open whilst you bleed the air out.
As you can tell the system in my car is now far from standard, but it has worked OK for at least 6 months now without any trouble, including a holiday journey to France this Summer.
If you need any further clarification please let me know.
Regards
Ross

[Sparky]

Note: This is what I had to do on My 2002 2.2DCi JEOK (the Race). Where the hydraulic system is totally sealed with no reservoir.

As Ross says it is possible to refill the sealed type of hydraulic clutch pipes fitted to the Mk-III Espace's, with a little care from the dry break joint mounted on the gear box housing. The problem being that a little air in the system becomes compressible unlike the hydraulic fluid. This air bubble rises to one of the two high points within the master cylinder pipe run where it can't escape. (1), By releasing the pipe within the engine bay (gearbox dry break joint to bulkhead) and holding it upwards in a straight-ish line to enable the air to rise to the top, before refilling. (2), just above the master cylinder the pipe goes up and over the brake pedal shaft (RHD cars) before running below this shaft to the left hand side of the bulkhead where it passes through to the engine bay.

Note I was also lucky enough to break the plastic ball joint on the clutch master cylinder to pedal. For this I was able to fabricate one out of metal which should be more substantial than the original.

Regards Sparks