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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2005, 10:38:58 pm » |
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Does anyone have a good description/explanation/drawing of the mechanism?
Ok, I helped myself. First, take a look at this picture of the inside of the gearbox: Picture is from http://www.atspeedimages.com/1988_citroen_cx/clutch_and_gearbox/Note the dark grey forks (where the red arrow points) that move the syncros (shown with the yellow arrows). There's one fork for 1-2, one for 3-4, and one for 5-R (5'th gear is obviously not fitted on the picture here). This drawing is in the workshop manual: G is the one that operates the stuff inside the gearbox. The long rod B rotates and shifts from side to side as the gear lever is moved from side to side. These two actions will work slightly against each other, but it is the rotation that lifts G up to select the appropriate fork inside the gearbox. People with experience tells me that the system can be restored to near-new-standard. I'd recommend replacing joints and checking the pivot points.
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« Last Edit: March 10, 2006, 11:58:21 am by dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration) 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah 2024 VW id.buzz Pro
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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Lennart Sorth
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« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2005, 10:06:16 pm » |
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[Hans, I don't quite get that. The tube is supposed to move sidewards.
which is true, but I guess the sloppyness can be so dominating, that fixing ANY part og the linkage can produce useable results. I know that more cars have Hans's solution fitted. (I think it was proposed by our own Stig .. well not THE Stig, but close) However, personally I'll still recommend replacing all the worn parts. Specifically around the gearlever, and the other ball-joints. On my 1.6 the knuckle-rods in front of the gearbox (connecting the L-shaped lever on the longitudinal rod with the gearbox) were the main reason. The ball-joint at the back of the longitudinal rod is also known to deliver quite some slack. (Since then I had the engine converted to the XU9JA, which incidently gave me a brilliant gear-linkage, courtesey of MatraMagic, but thats another story) /Lennart
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« Last Edit: December 07, 2005, 10:07:02 pm by Lennart »
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2005, 11:15:43 pm » |
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[Hans, I don't quite get that. The tube is supposed to move sidewards.
which is true, but I guess the sloppyness can be so dominating, that fixing ANY part og the linkage can produce useable results. I know that more cars have Hans's solution fitted. (I think it was proposed by our own Stig .. well not THE Stig, but close) So where is it fixed, and how? If the long rod can rotate around it's own axis, then the rotation will have the opposite effect as the sidewards movement, thus making it far less precise. Pictures?? :-)
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« Last Edit: December 08, 2005, 09:11:14 am by dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration) 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah 2024 VW id.buzz Pro
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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Lennart Sorth
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« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2005, 11:34:30 pm » |
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.. the opposite effect as the sidewards movement, thus making it far less precise.
Well, what you use from the movement is the rotation around the longitudinal axis, en the forward/backward movement, so even if the system was designed to move sideways as well, it is not really mandatory for the gearchange (at least on a 1.6, which I know the best) It was a little triangular thing, with a bearing holding the rod steady, while still letting it rotate and slide forwards/backwards. It was fixed on the chassis between the trailingarm mountings. but personally I will still recommend renovating the original system first, and only resort to this modification if everything else fails. In fact, if you get the ball joints under the gearlever and the ball joint at the far back of the rod just right, I think the above modification will actually inhibit gearselection, as It requires slack in both ends. (This is in fact the slack it "eats", making the gearchange feel better) /Lennart
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« Last Edit: December 08, 2005, 11:37:45 pm by Lennart »
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GP
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« Reply #14 on: October 03, 2009, 01:16:02 pm » |
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Hi all, A vey old topic I know, but I thought as no pictures were ever provided of gear linkage modifications, I would attach some of the very simple modification I did some years ago to my standard gear linkage. (Having serviced and adjusted the linkage for optimum performance first!) N.B. If you do not have the lower "Cross Brace" fitted to your car, obviously you cannot carry out this modification. I utilised an E.O. 22mm Gr3PP Plastic Pipe Clamp (Available in any good Norwegian Shipyard when the storekeeper is not looking ) The 22mm plastic hole was drilled out to 25mm + to give a loose fit around "Rod B". Two 6mm holes 33mm apart were drilled centrally in the cut out in the "Cross Brace" above "Rod B". The assembly was then fitted around "Rod B" with a good application of grease and bolted to the "Cross Brace" with longer M6 x 60mm bolts and nyloc nuts. It had great effect in minimising sloppiness and firming up the gear lever operation. Question: I was told recently by Titus Taylor that he had seen a car which had the outer connection point of linkage "Rod K" moved closer to the pivot point of "Arm G" which sits on top of the gearbox. This effectively created a shorter throw of the gear lever to change gear, ie. a quickshift. (A bit more arm effort may be required though, which I am not bothered about) Does anyone have any further information on this, a picture or dimensions about this modification, before I set about driliing holes everywhere, failing miserably and go down the pub instead? Cheers, Graham
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« Last Edit: October 03, 2009, 01:20:32 pm by GP »
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