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Author Topic: taking out the engine  (Read 9675 times)
teknob
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« on: November 17, 2008, 10:24:21 pm »

could anyone tel me how to take out the engine . my top gasket is no god,,,smoke comming out of the breathing hose and a little oil in the water in the coling system,,,,
i suppose il have to take out the engine , it should have a vaterpump as wel.
how do i do.................
with regards karsten Huh
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Waldo
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« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2008, 10:57:03 pm »

Sorry to hear you are having problems  Sad

I have been through the process a few times by now.

Don't know if you have a 1.6 or 2.2, but the process is pretty much the same anyway!

You will need to take off the anti roll bar, disconnect all wires and hoses from the engine (you don't need to take off the brake hoses or hand brake cable, so don't).
Then jack up the rear if you don't have an autolift handy?
Take off the wheels, and screw out the centre nut holding the drive shaft. You will need a large "spanner" for this (if my memory is correct 36mm) and an assistent activating the brake pedal.

Now you are at the critical point, and praying to the automotive god's should be done  Wink
After praying grab you spanners and loosen the 2 bolts securing the rear trailing arms. The bolts are prone to rust to the bush's in the trailing arm.
If so I can recommend an electric "hack saw" to cut the bolt(s) and a hydraulic press afterwards to change the bushes...
Unfortunately there is no way around taking the rear trailing arms off (I have tried a thing or two, even taking the diff off the gearbox), but when this have been done once, and the bush/bolt have been greased at assembly they come off without much effort...

When the trailing arms are off, you can easily remove the driveshafts (they are simply pushed into the gearbox differential).
From here it's pretty much straight forward.
Check that you have disconnected all wires, hoses and linkage to gearbox and carb. (remember the hydraulic clutch as well).

When everything else is removed take off the generator (it's a no go if not removed on the 1.6) then the 3rd engine mount (at the bottom keeping the engine from rotating).
Now lower the car so that you can "jack up" the engine and undo the 2 final engine mounts.
When these are removed you should be able to slowly lift the car without the engine  Cheesy

If you need pictures let me know, I have been through the procedure last week  Wink

If everything works out fine, and your trailing arms comes right off you should be able to do the job in 3-5- hours.  Smiley

Hope the above is usefull... let us know how you get on?
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Matra_Hans
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« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2008, 07:15:57 am »

Hi Teknob
If you "only" need to take off the top and change the waterpump this can be done with the 2.2 engine in place.
You will have to place the engine on a jack loosen some of the engine mounts which will allowe you to move the engine a little bit.  I have done it myself.

Taking off the rear trailing arms can be very cumbersom. I have also done that myself.

regards andgood luck

Hans

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teknob
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« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2008, 11:59:27 am »

thanks for the answers.
i understand i dont take the engine up ill take it down???
it is a 2,2 murena ive got
and il have to lokk at the clutch as wel so il think it wil be the eaysy way to take it al of . the arms have ben of and greased so..........thanks
   with regards
karsten
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RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2008, 12:12:05 pm »

Karsten, how is the manifold/solex carb problem going for you...?
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teknob
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« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2008, 09:04:59 pm »

Karsten, how is the manifold/solex carb problem going for you...?
it is fixed with the original carp some new gaskets and a cleaning........
i think my problem is the top gasket ,,oil smel komming out of the  breating hose made it smel avful  and migth make the engine go bad ,i hope a new top gasket vil solve this smelly problem ...or else......new pistons Shocked
the odd manifold was custumised to the neiman dobbel carb......
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2008, 09:18:14 pm »

i understand i dont take the engine up ill take it down???

Yes, that's the only way out.
See if you can get in touch with Finn in Raml°se. He has done the job two times. Or you can take a look at the photo series of what we did in July:
http://gallery.dinsen.net/v/biler/Murena/schlachtfest/

Note that the trailing arms were off before we started.

- Anders
« Last Edit: November 18, 2008, 09:24:06 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

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krede
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« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2008, 07:55:57 am »

... We really tore that poor thing apart didn't we??....


May it rest in peace...  Grin
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teknob
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« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2008, 05:29:07 pm »

yes you did inded.........
i wont be that awful ......but i can se that i have to buy me a truck

thanks from Shocked
karsten Grin
« Last Edit: November 19, 2008, 05:31:43 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #9 on: November 19, 2008, 05:35:23 pm »

i wont be that awful ......but i can se that i have to buy me a truck

No you shouldn't use a forklift truck - we scrapped the chassis later on, so we were'nt trying to be kind to it. We actually didn't damage it, but the forklift truck could well have bent the bottom of the trunk. So the way to do it is to put the rear on tall stands.

- Anders
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krede
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« Reply #10 on: November 19, 2008, 06:18:14 pm »

Quote
We actually didn't damage it
No.. but it did have some corrosion many places if I remember correctly
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #11 on: November 19, 2008, 07:34:13 pm »

Quote
We actually didn't damage it
No.. but it did have some corrosion many places if I remember correctly

Sure, but my point was that the forklift truk is useable, but not recommendable for a car that is supposed to survive. This particular chassis went to a scrap yard a month later.
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Bart_Maztra
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« Reply #12 on: November 19, 2008, 09:20:31 pm »

A forklift is a very helpfull thing to take out the engine. Done it several times.

You can use the forklift to lower the engine to the floor, next lift the chassis with the forklift. Easy as that.

But be very carefull! First you need extended forks. Without extended forks, forget it.
Second: use wooden blocks to protect the chassis, and make sure you lift the chassis beams and/or the pieces which is holding the rear trailing arms.
Third: Keep the center of gravity in mind. From my experience if there is no weight of the engine, lift it under the chassis beams as close the rear as possible. With the weight of the engine, lift it with one fork onder the trailing-arms-holder.

Forklifts? I love it!




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Oskar
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« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2009, 04:38:02 pm »

do you lift the car on the trailingarms each at one time and then place stands under. or how do you lift it so high?

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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2009, 07:51:06 pm »

do you lift the car on the trailingarms each at one time and then place stands under. or how do you lift it so high?

You must be thinking about the moment when you have the engine released from the body, but still kept in place somehow. I suppose you will be able to lift either side of the car at a time using a single hydraulic jack and a pair of tall axle stands, but it is probably easier to do if you have two large hydraulic jacks and an engine hoist which you can use to lower the engine to the ground before starting to lift the car.

- Anders
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'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
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