One of those jobs I wish I'd never started

[suffolkpete]

Decided to use my few days off to swap the gearbox  as second gear synchro has gone.  To start off with, all the trailing arm bolts were rusted solid.  Not to worry, Santa Claus brought me a nice new air hacksaw.  It has only taken me a day and two blades to cut through them all.  Those bolts must be made from good steel!  Now I can't get the left hand driveshaft out of the gearbox    The bushes look as if they won't come out of the trailing arm without a fight and they need to be replaced.  And it's 2 deg.C in my workshop.  I hope after all this the spare 'box is a good one.  It came as part of the shedload of spares with the car, so I've no idea what it's like.

[krede]

Its a common fault that the Drive shafts get stuck in the gearbox. And sadly if they cannot be removed by a quick pull.. you'll need to disassemble the differential to release them from the inside.

The gearbox i am rebuilding has the left hand drive shaft stuck in it as well

[Anders Dinsen]

There's a tool described in the workshop manual to take the driveshafts out. Have you tried that (both of you)? I remember having seen a sketch of it at www.espace-murena.com... yes, here it is: http://www.espace-murena.com/articles.html, click the link "Extraction Transmission" on the left. Seems to be an improved version of the tool.

I know the feeling, Pete, about starting jobs you fear you'll regret. I'm sure the suffering will pay out in the end in the end! Hang on and take it easy.

Cheers,
Anders

[krede]

Yes.. I tried fashioning such a tool but to no avail. And Im quite certain that Hans did the same.

[Oskar]

I feel sorry for you. Im planning on doing the same couse I have a crack in the gearbox, otherwise its very tight and no synchroerrors.
but now I dont know if its worth it or maybe try to weld it at place

damnit 

[suffolkpete]

Thanks for the sympathy .  I'll think of you doing the same, you'll have to take the 'box off whether you weld it or replace it.  Personally, I'd replace it, or at least the casing, alloy welding is never that successful in my experience and it has to take a lot of load from the starter.  I noticed my starter has an additional  support at the back, as well as three bolts at the front, so there may be a problem with starter loading.  I've been at it for three days now and haven't even got the gearbox back on, there seem to be loads of pipes and anti-roll bars in the way.

[krede]

alloy welding is never that successful

It can be done no problem. But you need to have it TIG welded, and of cause done by someone who know what he is doing as this is very difficult to do properly. And the optimal solution would be to have a bit of extra material (from a broken gearbox casting) to use as "filler".
A mate of mine is educated as an alu smith, and after he welded my water pump housing shut (for my EWP build ). He told after wards , that "old" cast alloy is of much better quality (with regards to welding) then newer ones.

[suffolkpete]

The last few days have not gone well.  The gearbox is now on and everything is connected up, but I've dismantled the diff on the old box and still can't get the shaft out.  I've removed the core plug and soaked everything in penetrating oil, I've tried the "two pins" trick suggested by Roy, I've tried a three-legged puller on the drive flange but it won't budge   On top of that, when I was struggling to change the silentblocs, I noticed a rust hole in the trailing arm.  Still, the good news is that there is a serviceable trailing arm and a drive shaft in the hoard of spares, although it needs a new inner boot.  I'll put it all back together with the spares while I ponder what to do about the other parts.  Any suggestions welcome.  I'm having a few days break now, to give the parts time to arrive and the scars time to heal

[Anders Dinsen]

The last few days have not gone well.

I'm sorry to hear that.

The gearbox is now on and everything is connected up, but I've dismantled the diff on the old box and still can't get the shaft out.  I've removed the core plug and soaked everything in penetrating oil, I've tried the "two pins" trick suggested by Roy, I've tried a three-legged puller on the drive flange but it won't budge  

How very annoying! It sounds like you have tried everything.

On top of that, when I was struggling to change the silentblocs, I noticed a rust hole in the trailing arm.  Still, the good news is that there is a serviceable trailing arm and a drive shaft in the hoard of spares, although it needs a new inner boot.

You are lucky to have a good bin of spares for your car - you should be able to get it back in running order then.

  I'll put it all back together with the spares while I ponder what to do about the other parts.  Any suggestions welcome.  I'm having a few days break now, to give the parts time to arrive and the scars time to heal

Time is sometimes what it takes to get rusty parts apart. Your best bet is to give it regular sprays of WD40 or similar, and to try again and again to get the parts apart using gentle persuasion...

Good luck with it!

- Anders

[krede]

I'll take my differential apart next week.. maybe I can come up with something.

[Oskar]

can youplease take some pictures of the diff etc where the stuff is jamed?
aint it possible to heat it up?

good luck 

[suffolkpete]

can youplease take some pictures of the diff etc where the stuff is jamed?

I'll do my best.  I've tried heat but it didn't work.

[suffolkpete]

Only seems to have attached one picture, here's the other.

[Anders Dinsen]

Excellent photos, especially the latter. I'm impressed that you haven't managed to get it out yet! This must be very powerful rust 

[krede]

This must be very powerful rust

Hopefully it isn't gust but rust contaminated grease!!
You SHOULD be able to use a couple of small screwdrivers and press the locking ring on the shaft enough to release it.