Removing the window when the motor won't roll it down

[Jon Weywadt]

The other day I fixed the power window on the drivers side. It would not move at all, so I had to get the mechanism out. It is darn near impossible to get a wrench onto the bolts holding the window on to the sliding bracket. I had been given the tip of cutting a hole in the fiberglass over the bolts, but had no directions to exactly where to cut. So after some measuring I managed to hit the right spots and thought someone else might have the use for the measurements. So here is a photo of the holes I cut and pencil markings that I am pretty sure will get you close enough on any door. The measurements are from the edge of the opening on the left, along the line through the center of the holes and from the top edge to the center line. Hope it helps someone.
By the way. The problem turned out to be the oil in the motor bearings having dried up and sticking. WD40 solved that.

[roy4matra]

The other day I fixed the power window on the drivers side. It would not move at all, so I had to get the mechanism out. It is darn near impossible to get a wrench onto the bolts holding the window on to the sliding bracket. I had been given the tip of cutting a hole in the fiberglass over the bolts, but had no directions to exactly where to cut. So after some measuring I managed to hit the right spots and thought someone else might have the use for the measurements. So here is a photo of the holes I cut and pencil markings that I am pretty sure will get you close enough on any door. The measurements are from the edge of the opening on the left, along the line through the center of the holes and from the top edge to the center line. Hope it helps someone.
By the way. The problem turned out to be the oil in the motor bearings having dried up and sticking. WD40 solved that.

Well I have to disagree Jon, as I have taken out many mechanisms when they wouldn't move.  Also, whilst your measurements may be fine for a window fully up, what about when it is stuck part way?  You could end up with long slot holes to cater for any position! :-)

You should remove the window ledge seals first which gives you some light from above and the clearance to get the bracket at the bottom of the glass out once it is released.  Simply use a combination or flat ring spanner, and put your arm up behind the inner glass fibre skin.  You can feel the bolt heads (mechanics often have to do things by feel as the designers don't appear to have a clue about actually working on their creations!) and once you have the spanner on them they usually only need to be loosened, and then you can unscrew them the rest of the way with your fingers.  You do need to hold the glass up to take the weight off the bolts to allow them to be easily turned.  Then you lift the glass out and put it safely to one side.

This involves no cutting of the inner panel which is something I hate - damaging original panels.

One final thing about removing window mechanisms.  At the top it is held by a bracket that is riveted inside the panel.  I have seen this drilled off when it doesn't need to be at all.  Once the mechanism is free from the door (two bolts lower down and one at the bottom) it will simply unhook from the bracket.  When you put it back simply hook it back behind the bracket again.  No drilling or riveting required.

Roy

[Jon Weywadt]

Well I have to disagree Jon, as I have taken out many mechanisms when they wouldn't move.  Also, whilst your measurements may be fine for a window fully up, what about when it is stuck part way?  You could end up with long slot holes to cater for any position! :-)

Excellent point Roy, but I didn't intend my post to be an instruction for removal in all situations. Hopefully, if your power window fails, it fails in the fully closed position, otherwise you could have a pretty drafty ride. 

I did remove the inside window seal, but not the outside one. With the window closed the outside seal would probably be destroyed if you try to remove it, because it is made of hard plastic and clipped on in a manner that requires lateral movement for removal. a movement that will be difficult with the window in the way.

If you are unfortunate enough that your window is stuck partially open, you can measure from inside the window grove to the top of the window and add that measurement to the 9 cm from the top ledge. That should put you on top of the bolts, except for the lateral movement torward the front of the door, due to the slant of the slide. I would first figure out that angle and draw a line accordingly from the center, where the holes in the fully closed position should be cut.

Once cut, the holes are easily covered with, for example, duct tape, and then you have easy access to remove the window, if you ever have to remove the mechanism again for lubriction or replacement.

Do not drill out the bracket on top of the slide (pop rivet shown in photo) It is not necessary to remove the bracket to take out the slide. Just unscrew the two bolts visible under the holes in the photo and the one at the bottom of the door. The bracket will guide you to positioning the slide correctly when reinstalling.

Getting to the window bolts for removal is possible without the holes, but just try to reinstall them without the holes and you will probably curse yourself for not cutting them How you managed is beyond me, I do not have that kind of patience or dexterity.