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GP
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« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2011, 05:25:58 pm » |
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Rust is the problem. Treating them on the inside if they are rust free with Waxoyl or similar product helps. If the outside is sound, shotblasting and powder coating or alternative protective coating as you prefer is required. One area of weakness is the inside shock absorber mounting bracket which fills with dirt and starts corrosion. This needs to be kept clear of debris.
See Pictures.
GP
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GP
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« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2011, 07:13:33 am » |
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Have you made a will yet? GP
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roy4matra
YaBB God
Posts: 1199
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« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2011, 12:17:18 am » |
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I always thought the suspension on the 1.6 and 2.2 was the same, except for maybe stronger springs on the 2.2. Are you sure the arms themselves are different? If so what is the difference? Oh yes they are definitely different Jon. Not only are they stronger, they are designed in a different way, and one thing no-one else has mentioned yet - the rear track is wider on a 2.2 compared to a 1.6, so although the 2.2 arms could theoretically be fitted to a 1.6 you should strictly have slightly longer driveshafts too. Since the driveshafts can compress and extend within a limited range (and you will note they have to be compressed as you assemble the rear suspension) it is possible this will take up the extra width, but the shafts will not then be working in the correct area, or as they were before and this may lead to premature failure. The 1.6 arm is made up of two pressings joined along the flange. The 2.2 arm is made of four flate plates welded along the corner joins to make a box section. Both rot owing to the fact that when welded, any protective paint on the inside is burnt off leaving it unprotected and as we know, no manufacturer ever bothers to pump in a protective cover afterwards! So the moisture gets in and does its worst. Before fitting replacement arms you always want to apply as much protective to the inside as possible, and then re-apply more at intervals during their life. Roy
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