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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2012, 08:10:34 am » |
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more pics...
Hi Klumzer. I am seriously impressed. You are doing the job we all dream of and never quite get around to do. While we just keep our cars going, you are ending up with an essentially better-than-new Murena. I look forward to seeing it at a meet. About the chain to the oil pump. Besides new sprocket wheels, I see only two options if the chain is new and still loose. You could have the sprocket wheels chrome plated, which will add a few thousands to the diameter and may take up the slack. However the surface would probably be harder and therefore wear the chain faster, so it is perhaps not the best option. Another option could be to put a shim under the oil pump housing, thus increasing wheel distance and tightening the chain. I do not know if that will create problems for the oil pan fit, but you could verify the fit. Regards. Jon.
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« Last Edit: January 19, 2012, 08:23:00 am by Jon Weywadt »
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klumzer
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« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2012, 08:56:12 pm » |
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Thanks, but a lot of work remained... Hopefully I will visit a meeting next year. This year I won't have time and money for it. But I'm not sure if it's a good idea to paint the surfaces too which will bond the rear quarter panels. How are you going to treat the steel frame inside the doors? It guess it will be hard to get those up to your high standard.
Yes, you are right, it is better to bond the panels to bare metal, but probably I damaged the zinc coat during removal and I do not want to have rust underneath them. I asked an expert before doing anything. He is a representative of a paint company and recommended me to use epoxy primer on the galvanised surface and I could glue the panels to the primer which is tough and rough enough for this procedure. Hopefully he was right. We will see it. Door frame... hmm... I pondered a lot on it. It is a delicate point of the restoration, because the window rails are quite rusty. I think we will use a wire brush or wire disc to clean it and apply anticorrosive materials and coating. Sandblasting is also considered, but it may cause damage to the glass fibre.
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klumzer
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« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2012, 06:24:24 pm » |
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As I mentioned I want to keep the car in original condition, but I was thinking of installing an electric fuel pump, but... Next year I want my car to take an old timer exam which excluded this type of modification in the fuel system, so I rejected this plan. Now I am looking for a new mechanical fuel pump, because I do not want to use the old one. Although it worked, it is probably worn. At the car parts dealer I could not find pump for Murena 2.2, only for Tagora, but it does not look the same. Mounting points and dimensions are the same. It has 1 inlet 1 outlet and an extra, an overflow-pipe (maybe it is not the right word)... According to the catalog it is for Tagora 2.2, but I suspect it is for the V6 engine...
Can it be used on the Murena 2.2? Or it has a high flow rate for the 2.2 engine?
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roy4matra
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« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2012, 08:58:19 pm » |
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Mounting points and dimensions are the same. It has 1 inlet 1 outlet and an extra, an overflow-pipe (maybe it is not the right word)... According to the catalog it is for Tagora 2.2, but I suspect it is for the V6 engine...
Can it be used on the Murena 2.2? Or it has a high flow rate for the 2.2 engine?
The third outlet is a return connection to the fuel tank, as fitted to the 1.6. I think that if you look , you will find it has a very small outlet, about 0.7mm. Talbots fitted the third connection in some markets, I don't know about the Tagora but Alpines and Solaras can be found with either three or two connections. My parts book shows the 2.2 as having two connections to the pump... Which is because the return to the tank on the 2.2 comes from the carburettor connection. So you don't want a pump with a return on the 2.2 or if you did have one you would have to blank one of them off. To explain for those that don't understand why it is there, the third small orifice connection is to stop any carburettor needle leakage as it shuts off, since the excess pressure is allowed back to the tank. Roy
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« Last Edit: January 24, 2012, 09:02:12 pm by roy4matra »
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