murena restore

[klumzer]

The interior will be similar to the original except for the gearknob and the steering wheel. Those will be covered with brown leather.

[klumzer]

I have two second hand engine mounting bushes. No rust on the metal and no cracks on the rubber, but the inner bushings are not in the center, about 3-4mm lower.

Is it possible to use one of them if I turn it 180 degrees?

The new busing is harder than the original one, so the car is a bit shaky...

[Oetker]

I had the same with a second hand and it needs to be mounted like this.

I found out that the holes need to be in this position because otherwise I had vibrations from the engine in the car.
I mouted it inside out and turned to this position.
It is mounted since 2009 and still OK

[Jon Weywadt]

I have two second hand engine mounting bushes. No rust on the metal and no cracks on the rubber, but the inner bushings are not in the center, about 3-4mm lower.

Is it possible to use one of them if I turn it 180 degrees?

The new busing is harder than the original one, so the car is a bit shaky...

The bushings are originally symmetrical, so there is no problem turning them 180 degrees.
Yours has just settled with age.
One problem with rubber is that the vulcanizing process never fully stops, thus making it harder with age. 

[roy4matra]

My engine can run but I think it would be better to overhaul the carburettor. I have Solex but it is not easy to find a repair kit for it that is why I am looking for more infos about Weber carburettors.

First, you can get the Solex 34CICF service kit easily from a company called B2H (at least, the last time I had no problem) and this comes with most of the gaskets, seals and a needle valve, if I remember correctly.
http://www.b2h.fr/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=34&category_id=14&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2

However, the tiny 'O' ring for the pump jet feed was usually too big, so you may need to get that elsewhere. (in the latest photo of the kit it looks about right now - maybe they've corrected it?)  Weber do a seal of the right size I think.  Also be careful when replacing needle valves.  I remember someone once replaced one only to find the car didn't run properly afterwards.  The new valve was leaving too little fuel in the float bowl.

Second, since there never was a Weber fitted or specified for the Murena you cannot simply replace the Solex with a Weber.  Yes some Weber 34DMTR will fit physically, but there are many different types of 34DMTR and whilst some can be altered to suit the engine, others are really not suitable.  The Venturis are cast in and cannot be changed as this is a 'cheap' Weber specifically made for a manufacturer for a specific car/engine.  As an example one version has a connection to the distributor diaphragm that is totally wrong.  The carburettor take off point should have no vacuum at idle and then increase progressively as the throttle is opened up to about 2500 rpm when it stops increasing.  (there is a vacuum advance curve in the workshop manual)  At least one version of the Weber 34DMTR has full vacuum at idle, then dropping as the throttle is opened, which is the opposite to correct and is totally wrong.  So far the most ideal 34DMTR I have found from the ones I have seen is not quite right and needs some changes but can work.  However, if the Solex 34CICF is still good but just needs to be cleaned and serviced this is often better as you know they work correctly with this engine.


Regarding fuel levels in the float bowl, the latest fuels, particularly where they contain ethanol have a different specific gravity which will affect the height the float will ride at, and consequently alter the fuel level.  You may need to adjust this to get back to the original level.

Roy

[roy4matra]

Anders, are you sure that the plate should cover the fuel tank ? I have an old illustration from a sales brochure in my mind. Of course that is now 30 years ago,  but i´m pretty sure that there was written it should create a little vacuum by high speed to get the hot air faster out off the engine-room. And in cause only the german Autobahn was without speed-limit they made it only for the german cars.

Hilsen
Kai

Anders is correct.  That undertray is extra protection for the fuel tank, required under TUV regs.

Roy

[klumzer]

Thanks for the answers. I will try to turn the bush, but as I read in Oetker's topic it won't be easy to remove it from the cast.

I have bought a repair kit for the Solex from Simon. When I get the car back from the upholsterer I will send the carburettor to a specialist. Hopefully it will be as good as a new one.

[Jon Weywadt]

Thanks for the answers. I will try to turn the bush, but as I read in Oetker's topic it won't be easy to remove it from the cast.
----------

You will need a hydraulic press and a piece of pipe that is just smaller that the inner diameter of the housing but large enough to rest on the outer rim of the bushing. A machine shop should have the tools. 

[klumzer]

Quick preview of the new interior. I like it! I will post more pics, when it is completed.

Today the car got the new windscreen, so tomorrow morning it will be transported back to the workshop.

[TimS]

I was going to throw out my old steering wheel as some of the rubber has come off the back, and the gear lever has gone rubbery and soft. But may be I will do what you have done and simply get them recovered. They look great, as does the whole interior.

[Oetker]

I was going to throw out my old steering wheel as some of the rubber has come off the back, and the gear lever has gone rubbery and soft. But may be I will do what you have done and simply get them recovered. They look great, as does the whole interior.

Yes the old original steering wheel feels a bit like SM stuff.
Touching it gave me the chills.
I replaced it for solid wood.
Feels a bit like my old MG in the 70s.
First it looked like this but with a Alfa center.


Was a bit to 70s so I chanched it to this.

Not everybody's choiche I think but I like it.
The car has a brown leather interior so mounting a black one is not done and brown is hard to find.

by the way, your interior looks very need, but if I change it the buttons will go.

Herman

[klumzer]

Thanks. I insisted on the buttons. I wanted to keep the style of the interior, because it looks like a living room from the 80s. I like it. I think it is as unique as the three seats in a row.

The steering wheel looks quite good, so if you want to save your original one leather is a good choice I think. But I would like to try other steering wheels with smaller diameter in the future, because I am quite tall for this car and not easy to get in.

[Oetker]

I am 1m83 and no problem.
Renewing the seats you loose some  cm's.
New leather seats from Car-joy you loose about 4-5 cm (see the steering wheel to gain legroom)

You can win a bit here.




It is all just a bit short.

[TimS]

It is very low and I'm on 5 10! Don't know how you manage at over 6 foot.

Was going to throw my old wheel out but now definitely going to get some prices to cover it with leather. I have to decide in the new year if I retrim the seats in cloth or go for leather from someone like Car Joy. Depends on the cost really. But a black leather covered steering wheel and gear lever will go with either.

Did you like the leather seats?

[Oetker]

1m83 = 6 foot do fine.
Much more will have a problem.
Most of the people that converted to leather complain seats were much higher but that's normal I think.
My 1.6 has the old type leather from Car-joy and after some years it got settled.
It is quiet old now and needs filling but sitting is OK.


The seats can't get much lower because of the construction.
I saw no opportunities  to do so.

Herman