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Author Topic: Hello and my new Murena restoration...  (Read 55057 times)
TimS
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Posts: 176



« Reply #60 on: December 16, 2012, 04:38:40 pm »

Thanks Pete, I'll see how long they last after the rebuild. If I'm not happy I might go this way.

I do have another problem though. Before I refit the headlamp pods to the car, I need to fit the two bracing pieces each side that fit in the headlamp recess and are fixed to the front bumper, front wing and wheel arch liner.

Mine are missing on one side and rotten on the other. But the new ones seem quite a tight fit and are pushing the wheel arch liner into the wheel arch.

Any thoughts?
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suffolkpete
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« Reply #61 on: December 16, 2012, 05:59:21 pm »

I'm having trouble visualising the parts you're referring to.  If they're re-manufactured parts, then the quality and fit of such things often leaves a bit to be desired and they may have to be "fettled" a bit to make them fit
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TimS
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« Reply #62 on: December 16, 2012, 06:20:58 pm »

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cklb529sy43k9gy/Mounting%20brackets.jpg

This might help. The rusty horizontal and vertical braces bolted to the wing. Oddly though the bolt that goes through the lower front wing isn't attached to anything.
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klumzer
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« Reply #63 on: December 16, 2012, 09:47:49 pm »

I was wondering if it is worth getting them resilvered to get rid of the rust, or to try and get a replacement light?


I revived my original headlights and spotlights. I do not know how long they will last, but they look quite good with the new silvered layer.

I will have a similar modification at the mounting point of the headlights as Oetker has. Currently not installed, that is why I have not posted it yet. Mine is from a PolskiFiat 126p. The plastic bracket is very cheap, costs € 0,1. Smiley
« Last Edit: December 16, 2012, 09:51:56 pm by klumzer » Logged
Oetker
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« Reply #64 on: December 16, 2012, 10:10:53 pm »

Wow, looks good.
You are a perfectionist Wink
The bolt is also 126P ? and M5 or M6 ?

Greetings
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
klumzer
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« Reply #65 on: December 16, 2012, 10:51:04 pm »

The 126p bolt is M6 and quite long, about 5-6cm, so cannot be used.

I bought some stainless M5 bolts with normal hex head, and one of my friends converted the hex heads to spherical.
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suffolkpete
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Posts: 464



« Reply #66 on: December 17, 2012, 11:49:57 am »

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cklb529sy43k9gy/Mounting%20brackets.jpg

This might help. The rusty horizontal and vertical braces bolted to the wing. Oddly though the bolt that goes through the lower front wing isn't attached to anything.
Yes, I follow you now.  I think you just have to do whatever is necessary to make it fit, either by re-shaping it or drilling a new mounting hole somewhere.  With cars like the Matra that are largely hand-built, the factory did tend to make it up as they went along so you can't always be sure that replacement parts will fit.
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TimS
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« Reply #67 on: December 19, 2012, 11:20:25 pm »

 Grin Spent most of the day refitting the headlamp pods. Before I took them apart, which I had to do because one of the lifters broke and the fixing were rotten, they sat nice and flat when closed.

Now though I cannot get one of them to close fully. I've had to get a new connector for the lifting mechanism from Simon, this is metal and I wonder if it is a bit too long. I still have the original plastic one on the other side. If they had not sat flat before I took them apart, I might have thought the connecting bar was twisted or one of the arms bent. But now I am stuck as to why it will not go all the way down Embarrassed

I've tried disconnecting the vacuum system to see if residual pressure was stopping it closing but both lamps should still be aligned I think.

Also I have been changing some bulbs in the dash and seem to have lost power to the heater controls , fan, lighter and intermittently, the clock. Do these share a connection somewhere or could I have loosened an earth when unscrewing the fascia?
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Oetker
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« Reply #68 on: December 20, 2012, 04:26:07 am »

The arm does not bend easy.
The connector rod is for adjusting, so I presume you need to adjust to get them both in line again..
It is a very straight forward job.

Look if the hings where the rod turns in not have broken bolts.



Also you can use universal ball-joints in there wich are a lot stronger then the originals..
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
suffolkpete
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Posts: 464



« Reply #69 on: December 20, 2012, 12:07:17 pm »

It's really a matter trial and error.  As you say, both headlamps have to be aligned.  You should adjust both sides so that they are both fully down when the vacuum servo is fully retracted.  As far as your electrical gremlins are concerned, I can't see any common cause, the lighter and clock are fed from a permanently live fused supply, the heater lights from the sidelamp circuit and the fan from the ignition fused supply.  The clock is actually fed from the back of the lighter.  I had a lot of trouble with the wire being too short and disconnecting the clock when the ashtray was pulled out.  The heater lights can be temperamental, they are fed by two brass strips which can easily be displaced, disconnecting the bulbs (which are 24 volt!).  As for the rest, it's just a matter of systematic fault tracing.  With any Murena, the biggest source of electrical problems is the fuse box in the left front wing.  Take it out, clean and re-tension all the fuse holders, clean the edge connectors and replace any that are damaged, they are still obtainable, see Roy's FAQs.  By doing this you will eliminate a lot of future problems.  If you use the car regularly they are reliable enough, the passage of current stops oxide forming.
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TimS
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« Reply #70 on: December 20, 2012, 03:57:52 pm »

What puzzles me is that I have both the ball Nd socket joints screwed down as short as possible, which is how they were before.

Looking at the original broken bit, it seems as if someone had cut it even shorter.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vhsh4d15ffy1s43/2012-12-20%2014.48.16.jpg
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suffolkpete
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« Reply #71 on: December 20, 2012, 04:14:45 pm »

The lower of the two may be stopping  the other from going all the way down.  Try raising it a tad and if that doesn't work, is there any scope for adjustment at the servo?
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TimS
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« Reply #72 on: December 20, 2012, 08:49:47 pm »

Well, whilst under the car properly to adjust the handbrake I spotted this! Looks like a previous owner didn't want to pay for new parts. That'll be another order in to Simon. Sad

Did play with the wiring and get the clock working again. Pete, as you said, there is a circuit made with the two live connections into the back of the lighter, which even thought u/s itself, still worked as a circuit and the clock works.

Got all the lighting back, so all I have to do is find out what has stopped the heater controls. Probably dirty connections.
Gave up after 3 hours of trying to fix the headlamps. Need to leave them and have a good think about it. Despite having the shortest ball and socket joint on the the one that won't lower all the way, it still sits up an inch!
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suffolkpete
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« Reply #73 on: December 21, 2012, 11:16:38 am »

Hmmm... don't like the look of those pipes much either.  I think the heater controls will be obvious once you've taken the fascia off.  Did you do as I suggested and lengthen the push rod on the light that does go all the way down?  It may be that that's stopping the other one from going down.
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TimS
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« Reply #74 on: December 21, 2012, 03:54:24 pm »

I'll have another go at the weekend.
 The
Ives don't look great but to be honest I've not been under the car much yet. Is it worth replacing them as well as the brackets?
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