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Author Topic: Headlining  (Read 24220 times)
speedyK
Jr. Member
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Posts: 35



« Reply #15 on: March 27, 2014, 05:25:43 pm »

Thanks Smiley

I have just been speaking to my local garage and they showed me similar plugs and the slotted removal tools in various sizes.

The mechanic said that these things tend to break if you hardly do more than look at them - especially with an ambient temperature of currently approximately 10°C.

He recommended warming them slightly with a hair drier (not an industrial hot air gun, as this would be excessive).

I shall now see if I can make a suitable tool to prise them out.

I have purchased a can of this which seems ideal:

http://www.uhu.com/en/products/creative-products/detail/uhu-spruehkleber-3-in-1-1.html?step=1595.5882352941&cHash=0c6792a8b98328876826f01560835172

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Incurable petrolhead!
speedyK
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Posts: 35



« Reply #16 on: March 27, 2014, 09:07:51 pm »

I made a tool for the plugs:

https://flic.kr/p/muMaK8

I used a hair drier to warm the area gently and was able to free them all using that tool without damaging the outer surface of teh plugs or the headlining itself - and the plugs still look good enough to use again:

https://flic.kr/p/muP4C3

As an aside, it was nice to see that the zinc bath dipped steel frame of the car is still like new after over 30 years Smiley

https://flic.kr/p/muP3Bq:

https://flic.kr/p/muMNLa

The removed lining and card:

https://flic.kr/p/muP3Ys

https://flic.kr/p/muMPVp

Taking off the lining:

https://flic.kr/p/muP4Zq

I vacuum cleaned both surfaces, as the spray-on glue instructions say the surfaces should be dry and dust-free.

I sprayed the card only: this is option 2 with this glue. Alternatively, both surfa es can be sprayed - in which case it acts as a contact adhesive, which I thought was too risky. The third alternative wpuld be to spray one surface and wait 20 minutes before joining. This would permit later separation and re-joining numerous times according to UHU.

After spraying the card, I  immediately put the lining into place, adapting it with the handbrush visible in the previous pic above.

It now has to dry for about 24 hours.
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Incurable petrolhead!
speedyK
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Posts: 35



« Reply #17 on: March 29, 2014, 07:33:26 pm »

It all went well - until the last moment of getting the headling back into place, when this happened:

https://flic.kr/p/my4iYn

Damn! Roll Eyes
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Incurable petrolhead!
Anders Dinsen
Administrator
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Posts: 3199



« Reply #18 on: March 30, 2014, 08:14:09 am »

Great work... I hope you'll get the mirror back on the wind screen Smiley
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration)
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
2024 VW id.buzz Pro

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
GP
Sr. Member
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Posts: 302



« Reply #19 on: March 30, 2014, 09:49:01 am »

It all went well - until the last moment of getting the headling back into place, when this happened:

https://flic.kr/p/my4iYn

Damn! Roll Eyes

Oh dear. Never used it but Loctite 319 plus Activator 7649 may fix it?

http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/225000-249999/245353-da-01-en-loctite_319.pdf
« Last Edit: March 30, 2014, 09:52:00 am by GP » Logged
Jon Weywadt
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Posts: 1002



« Reply #20 on: March 30, 2014, 05:11:14 pm »

It all went well - until the last moment of getting the headling back into place, when this happened:

https://flic.kr/p/my4iYn

Damn! Roll Eyes
A good auto parts store will have adhesive meant for gluing the metal block onto the glass.
You were lucky that it did not take a piece of the glass off too, when it came off. That has happened to me on a previous car. Grin
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Matranaut par excellence Cool
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