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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #5 on: November 07, 2006, 12:25:43 pm » |
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What would be the cause, and solution, of the car sitting slightly lower on the drivers side?
You mean like this ? Accourding to our very own Anders Dinsen  it was designed that way!!.. and is it supposed to sit a bit lower in the drivers side  I don't know if the rear should sit like yours do... the springs left and right are the same on the 2.2 and my guess would be that the right rear was the most loaded as that's where the engine sits. But in the workshop manual, there's different left and right adjustments of the torsion bars. It's just a few mm, I think. Will, you may be right, but I would have thought it was a handling thing... Macaroni, sounds like your thermostat doesn't close off completely. I think the clock is supposed to be lit at night, and it has a small bulb inside - pull it carefully out and you should be able to see it. Plug gap would be 0.6 mm when new, but something between 0.6 and 0.9 should be ok. Bernhard has all diagrams of ignition timing here: http://www.technikhomepage.de/kfz/elektrik/verteiler.htmlYour 5th question is difficult to answer - I guess you need to examine the tyre and suspension carefully to look for possible causes.
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #10 on: November 13, 2006, 11:39:41 am » |
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This is true, I've done more miles in the last 2 weeks in mine than it had done in the previous year!
All the disks and pads have been replaced, at great expense, within the last year so I'm reluctant to do it again. I'm not sure if the bearings were replaced at the same time, I'll have to check. If that is the case, then it shouldn't be a bearing I guess. It is the drivers side rear that is making the noise and it seems to be worse when turning left, which is odd.
Ok in that case it wouldn't make sense to replace the discs of course. If the old bearings have been refitted, then it is likely that you have found the problem... that doesn't mean that the others will fail too, only that there's a chance. With the weight distribution of the Murena 2.2, the lateral force on the bearings are actually higher on the rear than on the front bearings. This is because the car will try to rotate around its centre of gravity, which means that the lateral force on the rear wheels during cornering is always about 1.5 times the force on the fronts. This is also why you don't want to fit cheap tyres on the rear end of a Murena if you wish to stay on the road  In other words, it makes perfect sense that the rear end is failing first Will, you can probably enlighten us on the procedure of replacing bearings on the rear - is it necessary to take the trailing arm off the car entirely or can it be done in-situ?
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« Last Edit: November 13, 2006, 11:43:42 am by Anders Dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
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Will Falconer
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« Reply #11 on: November 13, 2006, 06:16:28 pm » |
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Will, you can probably enlighten us on the procedure of replacing bearings on the rear - is it necessary to take the trailing arm off the car entirely or can it be done in-situ?
It's a while since I've done one, but from memory you need to drop the trailing arm to get the drive-shaft out in order to unclip the bearing and in turn push that out. Once the arm is off then it's easier to remove/refit the bearing in a hydraulic press. I agree with Anders that bearings are more likely to fail when the car changes owner as it may have been standing or leading an easy life previously. I have a theory that change of ownership can be quite traumatic for a car just because of different - not necessarily harder - driving habits putting new demands on the wearing parts.
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